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 Posted: Tue Jul 12, 2011 4:21 am |
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Joined: Feb 26, 2010
Posts: 185
Trade Rating: +2
Location: crawley
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Hi all, can anyone tell me how hard it would be to do an engine swap from a 1.1 to a 2.0 138? Would i need new looms, clutch etc? And also, roughly how much would i be looking at spending on upgrading the parts needed to fit the engine?
Thanks
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Posted: Tue Jul 12, 2011 4:21 am |
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Joined: Feb 10, 2010
Posts: 4014
Trade Rating: +2
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Here we go.
Just search it mate, everyone is going to tell you not to bother.
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Last edited by Big_Rich180 on Tue Jul 12, 2011 4:23 am; edited 1 time in total
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Posted: Tue Jul 12, 2011 4:22 am |
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Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Posts: 1792
Trade Rating: +12
Location: Bridgnorth, Nr Wolverhampton
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if you know what you are doing, get a donor car (crash damaged etc) for cheap and just switch over everything
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Posted: Tue Jul 12, 2011 4:24 am |
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Joined: Jan 06, 2011
Posts: 1850
Trade Rating: +8
Location: Wiltshire
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| Big_Rich180 wrote: |
| everyone is going to tell you not to bother. |
So true lol
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| Renault Twingo 1.2 GT TCE, AP Coilovers, 25mm Hubcentric Wheel Spacers (Rear), 16" Speedline Turini Alloy Wheels, Renault Sport Cup Spoiler,, BMC F1 Panel Filter, Forge Dump Valve, Front Mounted Intercooler, K-Tec SS Cat-Back Exhaust System, K-Tec Decat Pipe, K-Tec Remap. 136.6 BHP 154.3 lbs/ft. | |
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Posted: Tue Jul 12, 2011 4:27 am |
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Joined: Feb 26, 2011
Posts: 2977
Trade Rating: +34
Location: Nuneaton
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I've got a donor 138 engine 
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Posted: Tue Jul 12, 2011 4:36 am |
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Joined: Feb 26, 2010
Posts: 185
Trade Rating: +2
Location: crawley
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Lol i got quite a few mechanic family... just wondering what i would need, did try searching it, but couldnt find :/
lol thats what gave me the idea.. your donor engine haha
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Posted: Tue Jul 12, 2011 4:45 am |
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Joined: Feb 26, 2011
Posts: 2977
Trade Rating: +34
Location: Nuneaton
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Haha oh right, well everything is there, I took the battery off for now but If I re-connect it it starts up and runs fine, sounds a bit loud as there's no exhaust on it, but like people have said before it's not just about the engine, I've still got springs etc you can also take, and does your car have discs or drums on the rear?
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Posted: Tue Jul 12, 2011 4:57 am |
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Joined: Feb 08, 2010
Posts: 10151
Trade Rating: +12
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you need everything under the bonnet
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Posted: Tue Jul 12, 2011 4:59 am |
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Joined: Feb 26, 2011
Posts: 2977
Trade Rating: +34
Location: Nuneaton
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Everything is still there under the bonnet seabook
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Posted: Tue Jul 12, 2011 5:00 am |
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Joined: Feb 08, 2010
Posts: 10151
Trade Rating: +12
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| furryhobnob wrote: |
| Everything is still there under the bonnet seabook |
nap, i just replying the opener's question 
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Posted: Tue Jul 12, 2011 5:01 am |
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Joined: Feb 26, 2011
Posts: 2977
Trade Rating: +34
Location: Nuneaton
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Oh right, well that makes sense now haha
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Posted: Tue Jul 12, 2011 5:04 am |
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Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Posts: 2874
Trade Rating: +4
Location: Chichester, Sussex
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You need to update the brakes ass well as the engine.
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Posted: Tue Jul 12, 2011 5:09 am |
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Joined: Feb 26, 2011
Posts: 2977
Trade Rating: +34
Location: Nuneaton
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| Ali_H wrote: |
| You need to update the brakes ass well as the engine. |
I agree mate that's why I asked if he's got drums or discs in the rear, if he's got drums I would recommend upgrading when putting a bigger engine in
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Posted: Tue Jul 12, 2011 5:10 am |
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Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Posts: 2874
Trade Rating: +4
Location: Chichester, Sussex
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1.1 = drums so will need the rear beam.
Also need to adjust the rawr settings on the engine before putting it in.
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Posted: Tue Jul 12, 2011 5:12 am |
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Joined: Feb 08, 2010
Posts: 10151
Trade Rating: +12
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| furryhobnob wrote: |
| Ali_H wrote: |
| You need to update the brakes ass well as the engine. |
I agree mate that's why I asked if he's got drums or discs in the rear, if he's got drums I would recommend upgrading when putting a bigger engine in |
drum is fine for the rear.
put some low temperature sinter shoe on then it is better than rear disc.
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