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Forums › The Car › 206 Problems › Couple of 206 problems help


 
 

Couple of 206 problems help
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very_452001
PostPosted: Mon Jun 18, 2012 5:45 pm Up
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whenever i start the the car the engine turns off straight away. this happens at random times whether hot or cold. whats causing this?

2nd probably is after i park the car i hear metallic knocking/pinging noises coming from the car. why is that?

thanks,

ps its a 2006 peugeot 206 1.4 verve

very_452001
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Big_Rich180
PostPosted: Tue Jun 19, 2012 4:31 am Up
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very_452001 wrote:
whenever i start the the car the engine turns off straight away. this happens at random times whether hot or cold. whats causing this?

2nd probably is after i park the car i hear metallic knocking/pinging noises coming from the car. why is that?

thanks,

ps its a 2006 peugeot 206 1.4 verve

Not sure on the 1st question but the pinging noises are just the car cooling down i.e engine/exhaust.

I pressume you here the noises when the car is not running?

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very_452001
PostPosted: Tue Jun 19, 2012 6:17 am Up
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Big_Rich180 wrote:
very_452001 wrote:
whenever i start the the car the engine turns off straight away. this happens at random times whether hot or cold. whats causing this?

2nd probably is after i park the car i hear metallic knocking/pinging noises coming from the car. why is that?

thanks,

ps its a 2006 peugeot 206 1.4 verve

Not sure on the 1st question but the pinging noises are just the car cooling down i.e engine/exhaust.

I pressume you here the noises when the car is not running?

yes i hear the noises when the car is parked up and not running.

very_452001
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very_452001
PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2012 4:10 pm Up
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i took it to the garage and the mechanic said the map sensor in the engine needs replacing for that engine cutting off problem. Is this true?
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MrMorris
PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2012 4:24 pm Up
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couldn't be nothing to do with timing being out? they usually make metal pinging noises. and could contribute to car cutting out? i may be wrong (usually am)
 
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kandlbarrett
PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 8:21 am Up
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Could be MAP sensor, could be crank sensor or several other possible problems including a bad connection. Has the car been on a fault reader or, alternatively, full diagnostic machine.

A fault reader will just read "faults" that are stored in the ECU. Some components can begin to fail but are not far enough out of tolerance or operating range to register a fault. If it is a fault reader what code was stored to suggest MAP.

Unlike a fault code reader using a full diagnostic the engine is running and you can see live readouts from each of the critical sensors and take actual readings against required readings. Using this software a sensor that is begining to fail but hasn't yet recorded a "fault" can be spotted. This software also more easily helps dignosis of split intake, vacuum pipe and other problems that are not cause by failing sensors.

The mechanic may have neither piece of equipment but be using experience to "guess" what is wrong.

Without knowing the fault code or seeing the diagnostic output anyone commenting on this thread would be doing the same - using experience to guess what is wrong.

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macca1411
PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 9:20 am Up
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Mine was cutting out when I started it and occasionally pulling up at a junction. It was the first sign of the battery being on the way out.

Sounds like the mechanic just wants to throw parts at it until he solves the problem. ££££s for him and a lot of agro for you.

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very_452001
PostPosted: Sat Jun 23, 2012 5:35 pm Up
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kandlbarrett wrote:
Could be MAP sensor, could be crank sensor or several other possible problems including a bad connection. Has the car been on a fault reader or, alternatively, full diagnostic machine.

A fault reader will just read "faults" that are stored in the ECU. Some components can begin to fail but are not far enough out of tolerance or operating range to register a fault. If it is a fault reader what code was stored to suggest MAP.

Unlike a fault code reader using a full diagnostic the engine is running and you can see live readouts from each of the critical sensors and take actual readings against required readings. Using this software a sensor that is begining to fail but hasn't yet recorded a "fault" can be spotted. This software also more easily helps dignosis of split intake, vacuum pipe and other problems that are not cause by failing sensors.

The mechanic may have neither piece of equipment but be using experience to "guess" what is wrong.

Without knowing the fault code or seeing the diagnostic output anyone commenting on this thread would be doing the same - using experience to guess what is wrong.

the oft approvred bosch service garage got the map sensor replaced 2 days ago and noticed so far the engine cut off problem has gone. I keep you guys updated on this.

But after the replacement i notice the car feels slower. Is the map sensor plug and play or does the ecu has to be programmed for it?

very_452001

Last edited by very_452001 on Sun Jun 24, 2012 3:17 am; edited 1 time in total
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Deckchair5
PostPosted: Sun Jun 24, 2012 2:14 am Up
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Is the map sensor plug and play or does the ecu has to be programmed for it?
No it isn't. Especially if you have a P0105 Map sensor fault code stored then it has flagged the MAP as unreliable and the ECU will ignore the MAP from there on and work out what fuel to put in by other means like the engine rpm, throttle position, engine temp, lambda etc.

So the first step is clear the fault codes and then let the ECU relearn the best settings again

A quick way is to disconnect the MAP and start the engine so you get a definite MAP sensor fault code stored. Turn off engine, reconnect MAP and clear MAP fault code. So the ECU knows it's got to look at settings for a new MAP.

OK now you can help it to get the baseline air pressure settings

Max pressure = atmospheric pressure with engine not running
Simply turn on ignition without starting- wait 10secs whilst it samples MAP voltage and then turn ignition off and wait 10secs whilst it stores this info in to ECU. It will use this figure now as a reference for atmos pressure

Idle pressure- now you want to start the engine with air con off so it picks up the low idle setting and let the engine idle until the engine temp is up to normal. Don't touch the gas pedal at all whilst doing this. You could wait for the rad fan to kick in then you know you're well up to temp. Ok it now knows the MAP voltage for air pressure at warm engine idle so turn engine off so it stores this data

That's it. Now it has the baseline voltage figures for max and idle. Just go off and drive normally now so it relearns the best settings for fuel trims etc

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spike_202
PostPosted: Sun Jun 24, 2012 3:44 am Up
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Mine does the pinging noise after I've had spirited drive, just think it's the exhaust cooling down could be you cat?
 

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very_452001
PostPosted: Sun Jun 24, 2012 3:45 am Up
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Deckchair5 wrote:
Is the map sensor plug and play or does the ecu has to be programmed for it?
No it isn't. Especially if you have a P0105 Map sensor fault code stored then it has flagged the MAP as unreliable and the ECU will ignore the MAP from there on and work out what fuel to put in by other means like the engine rpm, throttle position, engine temp, lambda etc.

So the first step is clear the fault codes and then let the ECU relearn the best settings again

A quick way is to disconnect the MAP and start the engine so you get a definite MAP sensor fault code stored. Turn off engine, reconnect MAP and clear MAP fault code. So the ECU knows it's got to look at settings for a new MAP.

OK now you can help it to get the baseline air pressure settings

Max pressure = atmospheric pressure with engine not running
Simply turn on ignition without starting- wait 10secs whilst it samples MAP voltage and then turn ignition off and wait 10secs whilst it stores this info in to ECU. It will use this figure now as a reference for atmos pressure

Idle pressure- now you want to start the engine with air con off so it picks up the low idle setting and let the engine idle until the engine temp is up to normal. Don't touch the gas pedal at all whilst doing this. You could wait for the rad fan to kick in then you know you're well up to temp. Ok it now knows the MAP voltage for air pressure at warm engine idle so turn engine off so it stores this data

That's it. Now it has the baseline voltage figures for max and idle. Just go off and drive normally now so it relearns the best settings for fuel trims etc


I was driving normally since I got the car from the garage. Is that ok for the map sensor?

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Deckchair5
PostPosted: Sun Jun 24, 2012 4:04 am Up
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Yes you're not going to harm anything but if, with the new MAP, you now find that the acceleration is poor (because it's probably running weak on acceleration) then the ECU needs to learn the new MAP voltages as I've said above

It might do it on its own if you leave it long enough to readjust with normal driving but if not then it's a good idea to tell the ECU to "start again and take another look" with the above procedure

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very_452001
PostPosted: Sun Jun 24, 2012 6:11 am Up
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MrMorris wrote:
couldn't be nothing to do with timing being out? they usually make metal pinging noises. and could contribute to car cutting out? i may be wrong (usually am)

sorry to sound like a newbie but do you mean the timing belt?

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very_452001
PostPosted: Sun Jun 24, 2012 12:43 pm Up
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Damn it, just notice the engine cuttin off problem came back today. Probably isnt the map sensor.

Please advise.

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very_452001
PostPosted: Fri Jun 29, 2012 5:20 am Up
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spike_202 wrote:
Mine does the pinging noise after I've had spirited drive, just think it's the exhaust cooling down could be you cat?

there's a problem with the catalyst converter?

very_452001
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