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 Posted: Tue Oct 23, 2012 2:23 am |
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Joined: Nov 27, 2010
Posts: 11519
Trade Rating: +10
Location: What's it to you? ? ?
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P0115 = Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Malfunction
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| Toyota C-HR GR Sport 2.0 Hybrid with JBL & Alcantara packs. | |
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Posted: Tue Oct 23, 2012 2:38 am |
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Joined: Oct 05, 2012
Posts: 23
Trade Rating: 0
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Yeah it's why I am starting to suspect the earths. It would be a bit of a coincidence for both the thermostat and the coolant sensor to die at the same time.
I am quite sure the thermostat is dud, because the radiator hose gradually gets warm instead of suddenly when the car is idling, and the fact that the gauge is always low. The gauge does move when stuck in traffic, but then goes down quickly when driving along about 40mph.
As far I as know (which is not much) the coolant temp sensor would not go bad just because the thermostat is bad.
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Posted: Tue Oct 23, 2012 4:12 am |
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Joined: Nov 27, 2010
Posts: 11519
Trade Rating: +10
Location: What's it to you? ? ?
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The coolant temp sensors are a known weak spot 
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| Toyota C-HR GR Sport 2.0 Hybrid with JBL & Alcantara packs. | |
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Posted: Wed Oct 24, 2012 6:10 am |
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Joined: Oct 05, 2012
Posts: 23
Trade Rating: 0
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Well, I tried to put a new thermostat on my car, which went ok. I tested it before I put it in the car and it opened up at 85c like it stated.
I made sure the thermostat went in the car correctly, e.g. spring going towards the engine.
The only thing I couldn't do was drain the radiator properly from the bottom. So instead, I just drained it out of the same hose the thermostat goes in.
That was probably not the right thing to do, because when I got the car warmed up, the coolant started spewing out of the coolant expansion container.
I am hoping this was because I failed to drain the coolant correctly.
Anyone able to give this novice (me) some advice as to where I went wrong?
Thanks,
SR
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Posted: Wed Oct 24, 2012 6:12 am |
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Joined: Nov 27, 2010
Posts: 11519
Trade Rating: +10
Location: What's it to you? ? ?
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Thermostat should come stuck to the housing as one unit that is simply bolted on.
Did you bleed the cooling system?
Turn the heater up to max heat setting, run the engine till the thermostat opens then bleed the air out the system using the bleed nipples.
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| Toyota C-HR GR Sport 2.0 Hybrid with JBL & Alcantara packs. | |
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Posted: Wed Oct 24, 2012 7:09 am |
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Joined: Oct 05, 2012
Posts: 23
Trade Rating: 0
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Hi,
Nope, I didn't bleed the cooling system. This is probably where I went wrong. Once I drained the coolant, I put the new thermostat in, filled up with coolant, and then heated engine. Nothing less, nothing more.
So it seems I should have bled the cooling system. Damn internet, everywhere I looked didn't mention to bleed it 
Ok, I will be on the hunt for those bleeding nipples tonight then ;o)
SR
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Posted: Wed Nov 07, 2012 3:01 am |
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Joined: Oct 05, 2012
Posts: 23
Trade Rating: 0
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Well, finally got round to bleeding the system. Had a bit of a problem though initially! I tightened the bleed screw up a little too tight and the stupid thing snapped off.
Well, I quickly pulled off the bottom radiator hose again and then scratched my head on how to get the broken bit off. It was quite lucky actually that the snapped bit appeared to have a little hole in the middle, so I got a cheap little 50 pence tiny screwdriver bit and tapped it into the broken nut with a hammer. Turned it anti-clockwise and it came out very easily. Result!
Then a short trip to B & Q and I found a 6mm bolt that looked promising, albeit a little bit too long. I used my hacksaw to cut a bit off the end to make it the same length and used the original copper washer and it all fitted back nicely. Probably in a better condition than before because the new bolt I am using is much more tough.
The car now drives quite well. Then another, somewhat lesser problem, has cropped up. In fact I think that it existed before too.
When the car gets warm, about mid-range on the temp gauge, I notice the stop-light, oil-light and (!) light start to flash. It only happens when at a standstill. A little bit longer, the lights become more permanent. If I put the car in neutral, it goes away slightly. Whilst driving, it never appears. I notice that PP2000 reads that the engine revs are at about 700-750 RPM when idling.
Maybe this is a little too low?
I am wondering what the problem could be...
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