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Forums › The Car › 206 Talk › driveshaft repair


 
 

driveshaft repair
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marshy206
PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2013 8:41 pm Up
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Hi going to replace a driveshaft this weekend apart from taking the shaft out is there anything i might come across that i am not expecting thanks Smile
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LeeThr
PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2013 9:13 pm Up
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First off, your going to need to replace the gearbox oil, the second the shafts out the oil will start to come out. Also which side will you be replacing? If it is the drivers side dont forget to replace the seal on the gearbox as these are one time fit items.
 


gogs_macaulay wrote:
LeeThr wrote:
One Hundred million bazillion gatrillion pink rupee's
Shut it u stupid little f**k, what's the point in posting in all my treads being such a c***? Least I can afford a gti180, and to get the cam belt done!

So apparently everyone knows my financial situation? If I wanted a 180 I would have bought a 180 simples Smile

The garage
2003 - 206 GTi 138 - Moonstone Blue
2003 - 406 Coupé 2.2 HDi SE - Hyperion Blue
2000 - 206 2L HDi D-Turbo ECO - Cherry Red
1999 - 306 GTi-6 - Blue (haven't worked out if it's Nile or China yet)
1987 - 205 GTi 1.9 - Graphite Gray

I must be mad.....
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imjeeves
PostPosted: Thu Feb 14, 2013 5:12 am Up
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Location: Glasgow / Welling


As long as you are careful putting the shaft in then you dont need to bother replacing the seal. I have taken them out the box many times and not had to replace the drivershaft to gearbox seal.
206 180 rally car in progress. I may not be perfect but there are parts of me that are f£%$ing brilliant
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Edward
PostPosted: Thu Feb 14, 2013 6:30 am Up
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New bolts for the front suspension. Old rusty bolts aren't nice. or safe.
2001 GTi 138, Bilstein Sprint dampers, H&R springs, 21mm Peugeot Sport torsion bars, 22mm rear ARB, Peugeot Sport Group A wishbones, 283mm discs, Goodridge stainless hoses, Maniflow 304 grade 4-2-1 2.5" manifold and system, 200 cell cat, Richard Longman head, 45mm Jenvey throttle bodies, 9.5mm TB spacers, 90mm air horns, Jenvey throttle linkage, Jenvey fuel rail, Aeromotive and Goodridge fuel fittings and braided hose, ITG sausage filter, Radtec custom radiator, Piper Ultimate Road cams, Piper vernier pulleys, Omex 600 ECU. Saxo electric PAS pump, Vibra Technics engine mounts. Samco coolant hoses, TTV steel flywheel, 4.76 final drive ratio, 307 CC 180 ratios. 2019 BMW 530i. 2017 Mercedes C300 convertible.
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richb
PostPosted: Thu Feb 14, 2013 6:39 am Up
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Location: Selby


I'd change seals if you are keeping the car. Royal pain I you get a leak and have to strip again.
If you live near a pug dealer you'll be talking £10-15 for seals and bolts.
Make sure you get correct gear oil as well.
If you are doing it as per peugeot you'll need a copper seal for behind the gearbox filler plug.

Don't forget when you start cursing, the nearside is the easy one!;)

Rich B
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marshy206
PostPosted: Thu Feb 14, 2013 6:41 am Up
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ok thanks and its the passenger side shaft thats getting done and i will keep that info in mind thanks agan
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marshy206
PostPosted: Thu Feb 14, 2013 6:43 am Up
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also are they a struggle to get out once everythings of or does it ned bit of a tap to get the old one out Smile
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richb
PostPosted: Thu Feb 14, 2013 7:05 am Up
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The old shaft will just pull, I've had them on and off to change boots and abs rings many times and never struggled.
The hardest bit will be separating the lower ball joint on the bottom arm to strut. ( worth having a good look at its rubbers while working on car)
I use a block of 3" x 3" timber about 7" long with a hole drilled at one end to fit a big steel bar in then chain it to the arm. When you stand on it the block of wood acts as a pivot on the sub frame and the bar chained to the arm pulls the arm down. The Haynes manual shows a good pic of it.

Rich B
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