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Forums › The Car › 206 Problems › Should I repair this myself?


 
 

Should I repair this myself?
Forum Index206 Problems
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karimali831
PostPosted: Thu Feb 14, 2013 4:20 pm Up
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Some months back my old BSI has short-circuited and I'm considering fixing it myself instead of paying £80 to get it repaired, I have spotted where it has short-circuited, I have no experience with soldering and the circuit tracks are very thin! Mess this up then possibly can never get it repaired to sale it with the ECU.

Take a look at the pic where you see the red border (bottom left), they really charge £80 to repair this or am I missing something?

oi45.tinypic.com/2ztfsbb.jpg
 

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cartoonhead
PostPosted: Thu Feb 14, 2013 4:29 pm Up
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got to ask your self what caused it to fry in the first place Wink

that could be the result of another problem on the board

 

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karimali831
PostPosted: Thu Feb 14, 2013 4:36 pm Up
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I had installed rear interior lights and foot-well lights connected to the front interior light so it illuminates on door control. After using it a few times it just stopped working, must of melted.

Now I am only using the standard front and rear light without foot-well.
Also installed a fuse so it doesn't shoot into the BSI.

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spike_202
PostPosted: Thu Feb 14, 2013 4:41 pm Up
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£80! Wow I gotta up my prices lol I've fixed loads is Xbox consoles/pads with broken tracks all i use is me old mans £500 surface mount soldering iron and just scratch the top layer of the track off to expose the conductor. then surface mount a physical bridge over the gap with some wire. If they are charging £8o that's a good price for 5mins work. But it's like what cartoonhead said what caused it to break in the 1st place, furthermore if they mess it up its them who have to pay for a new ecu.

Your call

 

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karimali831
PostPosted: Thu Feb 14, 2013 4:49 pm Up
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I flooded it with too much voltage/load, that's all it is to it.
Mistake learnt.. it's too bad they are pretty restrictive as they would make a nice mod.

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DeadEyePaul
PostPosted: Fri Feb 15, 2013 2:12 am Up
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As mentioned above you need to scratch the green layer until you get to the embedded track then you create a bridge with a bit of wire over the damaged section

 


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macca1411
PostPosted: Fri Feb 15, 2013 3:41 am Up
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Just use the existing solder points and use wire to bridge the gap. Ideally you could do with running a small drill bit through the track at either end to prevent any more problems and isolate that particular track on the board. You can do this by hand as you don't need to perforate the board. Not the best picture but you'll get the idea
 


karimali831 wrote:
I have no experience with soldering and the circuit tracks are very thin!
Soldering is easy once you get used to it. Make sure you use a quality solder, make sure the iron is hot and keep the tip clean (a damp sponge is good for this). Tin (hold iron against end of the wire and dab with solder) each end of the stripped wire before attempting to connect it to the board. Only keep the iron on the board long enough to melt the solder and attach the tinned wire, otherwise you can damage the components.

Have a practice first by connecting and disconnecting scrap wire until you get confident enough to have a go on the board. The whole job shouldn't take more than 5 minutes once the iron is hot.

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MrBSI
PostPosted: Fri Feb 15, 2013 4:29 am Up
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Go for it, what could possibly go wrong Whistle...
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V9977
PostPosted: Fri Feb 15, 2013 8:27 am Up
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That board is shafted.
Complete waste of time trying to fix it as by the time tracks melt, other components will be damaged even if they look OK visualy.

Having said that, you might get lucky.

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V9977
PostPosted: Sat Feb 16, 2013 7:00 am Up
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Looking at it better, it seems it's the rellay contact lines so it might well be OK.
Good luck.

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MrBSI
PostPosted: Sat Feb 16, 2013 8:42 am Up
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Have you check is it a multilayer PCB? There pretty easy to destroy with a normal soldering iron Laughing
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