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 Posted: Wed Jul 24, 2013 5:11 am |
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Joined: Jun 18, 2013
Posts: 9
Trade Rating: 0
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Hi all,
First time posting and sadly its a problem, though have read a great deal of this forum since getting my 2001 206 1.1 nearly 2 months ago.
Yesterday driving home my EML came on. I have no loss of power, juddering, cutting out or anything obviously wrong with it. Fuel consumption still appears normal so far as well.
The only thing I did notice (prior to light coming on but same journey home yesterday) was it idled very slightly rough at one point. it hasn't repeated this since though and drives like expected, no misfires that I can tell.
I previously had an issue a few weeks ago where it refused to point blank start after an hour motorway journey. After sitting 30-40 minutes it started up fine when breakdown people where on route to me! Fault code suggested crankshaft sensor but this was unknown as to whether it was a new or old fault code due to not having the car long, I was going to be replacing this end of the month when I get paid. It has also started first time every time since but was going to be done for peace of mind.
I know I will need to get any fault codes read, don't have a reader at the moment but again was something I was going to pick up end of the month.
Any suggestions from the above that I can look in the short term? I was going to take off the Crankshaft sensor tonight and give it a good clean. A quick look yesterday didn't show any obvious loss cabling but will give it a proper look tonight
All google searches so far don't really help due to the apparent lack of symptoms I have.
Thanks in advance
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Posted: Wed Jul 24, 2013 5:20 am |
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Joined: Jan 29, 2011
Posts: 6526
Trade Rating: +10
Location: Westhoughton, Lancashire
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Weeing in the wind without a code read.
All garages should have a code reader. Nip into one while you're passing and ask for a code read
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Posted: Wed Jul 24, 2013 5:41 am |
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Joined: Jun 18, 2013
Posts: 9
Trade Rating: 0
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Thats what I thought as well but wouldn't mind trying to do what I can in the mean time. Obviously if it was misfires then would be checking sparks, ignition etc. Running rich checking o2 (lambda?) sensors.
Just bit baffled by the lack of symptoms 
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Posted: Wed Jul 24, 2013 6:51 am |
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Joined: May 16, 2011
Posts: 495
Trade Rating: +1
Location: huddersfield
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Could try a bsi reset, see if it goes.
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| 206 2ltr Hdi glx 53 plate | |
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Posted: Wed Jul 24, 2013 9:41 am |
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Joined: Jun 19, 2010
Posts: 1600
Trade Rating: +4
Location: South Bucks
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The EML could be switching on because the limit of fault counts could have been reached. It counts the same fault and if it gets to a threshold the light comes on. The only way to find out is a diagnostic.
As it's a 2001 is likely most generic fault code readers won't tell the truth and you really need PP2000.
I've tried a £200 Sealey unit on a 2001 CC and either don't get the right code or it returns as something else. Even on our 2002 HDi I get odd fault codes like clutch pedal switch(?) ... it doesn't have one as it doesn't have cruise control!
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| Down to just the 1.4 HDi. Cayman Green 2.0i CC sold. | |
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Posted: Wed Jul 24, 2013 4:52 pm |
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Joined: Jun 18, 2013
Posts: 9
Trade Rating: 0
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Thanks for the info Gazza82.
I took off the MAP sensor as suggested elsewhere to check and that was perfectly clean. Took the the crankshaft sensor out and gave that a clean up (couldn't see anything really wrong with it to be fair) and whacked that back in too.
Engine light still on, would this go off if the issue was fixed or does it need resetting via diagnostic tools? I took it for a drive after I cleaned them up and again driving perfectly fine.
PP2000 i'm guessing is Planet Peugeot? So only place really would be a dealership to read off the codes and reset?
EDIT: Mate has a code reader so will take it over to his tonight to give it a try and see what comes up
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Posted: Thu Jul 25, 2013 3:42 am |
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Joined: Jun 19, 2010
Posts: 1600
Trade Rating: +4
Location: South Bucks
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PP2000 is available to download to a laptop but the issue is the cables ... the Lexia kit isn't cheap. I got one from aliexpress and it cost around £70 all in. I've already saved that in the cost of taking it to the dealers to be ripped off getting them to do the work.
You might find someone with PP200 on here who lives locally/close and is willing to hook it up and read the codes for you ... there's a list on another Peugeot Forums site of people who do this for a small donation to their beer fund!  link
Example:
My HDi had a problem last week. Code reader and PP2000 both reported P0382 which is Glow Plug Circuit B ... but it didn't say more than that. Also reported a clutch and brake pedal fault ... the brake switch is new. PP2000 did not pick up the brake pedal! And why the clutch pedal switch on a car with no cruise-control?
Sealey reported these but wouldn't clear the EML and so it's a "hard" fault ... and nothing seemed to be a problem. Still driving OK, no change in engine/performance.
But after a couple of days dragged the car into limp mode which meant max revs fixed at 2800.
Replaced the glow plug controller after trawling the internet for ideas and this fixed it. Other suggestions were glow plugs and glow plug wiring. Both a nightmare to get to as they are in the rear of the engine under the air intake/filter system.
Used the Sealey to clear the faults and reset the EML light. And now now clutch pedal fault either so that was a red-herring I could have forked out on!
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| Down to just the 1.4 HDi. Cayman Green 2.0i CC sold. | |
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Posted: Thu Jul 25, 2013 5:45 am |
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Joined: Jun 18, 2013
Posts: 9
Trade Rating: 0
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Thanks for the thorough reply again Gazza82.
I will certainly chance it on my mates one. I am not sure what model he has but worth a go for free and as long as I take the results with a pinch of salt I don't think I can go too far wrong.
Interesting in regards to the hard fault. When I had the breakdown people look before he was unable to clear the codes on his unit so was expecting some issues with the codes on this one (or wacky results like you say).
"You might find someone with PP2000 on here who lives locally/close and is willing to hook it up and read the codes for you"
Funny enough I live in Bucks so if I don't have much luck with my mates unit I might have to ask you nicely and top up your beer fund
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Posted: Thu Jul 25, 2013 5:51 am |
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Joined: Jan 29, 2011
Posts: 6526
Trade Rating: +10
Location: Westhoughton, Lancashire
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If it is a crank sensor fault, you might want to check the timing and make sure the belt hasn't jumped a tooth at some point. If the ECU doesn't get the spark information and the crank sensor information at the right time, then it throws up a fault.
The code only points you in the right direction and not necessarily to the cause.
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Posted: Thu Jul 25, 2013 7:09 am |
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Joined: Jun 18, 2013
Posts: 9
Trade Rating: 0
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Thanks for that.
The crankshaft sensor might have been an old fault that hadn't been cleared so was hard to tell. The issue that happened was I drove for an hour on the motorway, stopped at services and it just wouldn't start. Cranked OK but no go. After about 30-40 minutes it started first time and every time since. Breakdown man scanned and saw that code.
Googling suggested it was likely the issue for cars not starting when warm so was on my list to do next weekend anyway, as cheap enough for a replacement and easy job to do.
Is there a way to tell if its jumped a tooth? I would imagine it would be running rough as well with the timing out?
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Posted: Thu Jul 25, 2013 10:57 am |
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Joined: Jun 19, 2010
Posts: 1600
Trade Rating: +4
Location: South Bucks
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Crank sensor is the likely cause for that .. it's a common problem on many cars. If may be the fault code removes itself after a while but once it has registered it will stay until cleared or the new sensor starts to send back no codes.
You'd have to take the belt covers off and recheck all the timing to do that ... no that simple and only likely to happen if the tensioners are getting weak.
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| Down to just the 1.4 HDi. Cayman Green 2.0i CC sold. | |
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Posted: Thu Jul 25, 2013 4:31 pm |
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Joined: Jun 18, 2013
Posts: 9
Trade Rating: 0
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Just got back from my mates with the code reader.
Came back with the following:
P0420 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
P0335 - Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Malfunction
Crankshaft I knew about so only new code is the P0420, seen you have had this yourself Gazza from googling "p0420 206"
The entire exhaust from manifold to back box was only replaced 1 month ago so unlikely to be the CAT itself?
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Posted: Thu Jul 25, 2013 4:52 pm |
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Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Posts: 7093
Trade Rating: +11
Location: Suffolk
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The is more than likely cat f****d. Go genuine or risk it failing in 3 months like all other cheap s**t aftermarket ones.
Serious note to everyone who posts, if you dont understand dont post! Im getting concerned at the suggestions or information people are putting
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Posted: Thu Jul 25, 2013 5:29 pm |
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Joined: Jun 18, 2013
Posts: 9
Trade Rating: 0
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What I was fearing as well. Was just a cheap aftermarket one put on and at the time I had very little choice, the centre pipe snapped in the centre of town but literally 2 mins away from a garage. Had to get it replaced there and then.
Will speak to the garage and see what they say.
Is there an easy way to check whether its the CAT or the sensors or would it need further diagnostics done to prove the fault conclusively to either one?
Finally, which replies/information were incorrect?
EDIT: Could this error also cause higher fuel consumption at all? Not something I have noticed yet but haven't really driven it too much to notice, was just something I wondered to look out for
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Posted: Fri Jul 26, 2013 2:32 pm |
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Joined: Jul 10, 2013
Posts: 131
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Daventry
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Normally if a cat is gone it will stink and run slightly worse. It would also cause a slight increase in consumption (as with any other problem that causes the engine to run less well). My guess at the problem would be the new cat has not failed - it is just s**t. The sensor is probably detecting a different lamba reading compared to the stock cat. The aftermarket cat your running now might still pass an MOT no problem, just the ECU/sensor has a much tighter tolerance and would only be happy with a genuine cat.
This is just my assumption. Please do not make any decision based on my advice. I would hate for you to be running around on a knackered cat and do even more damage. It might be worth taking the cat and system back to where you got it from with your code read-out and ask for your money back or a different branded one and see how you go.
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