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Brake Shoe Replacement
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A10PSW

Posted: Wed Nov 20, 2013 8:44 am

Joined: Aug 09, 2012
Posts: 183
Trade Rating: +1

Is this a difficult job? Do the brakes need bleeding afterwards? Is it a matter of just loosening off the handbrake cable, taling off the drums and replace the shoes or is there more to it than that? I am quite confident at DIY as I have already change x2 rear beams in a year!! Any advice would be appreciated.

kandlbarrett

Posted: Wed Nov 20, 2013 10:08 am

Joined: Aug 04, 2011
Posts: 1343
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Swindon

No need to bleed brakes. Buy a Haynes manual, not perfect but good for most jobs like this.

You will probably find the drums badly lipped and the new pads won't sit properly giving poor handbrake. You can either bodge that by grinding or filing off the lip or filing a matching champher on the pads but either method is a bodge and frowned on by most.

You will need new "stake" nuts that hold the drum on. Do not reuse the old ones. I also think the torque on the nuts is quite high so make sure you know what it is and have a torque wrench suitable for that.

The self adjusting mechanism is complex so take pictures - you won't remember how it goes back together.

If you do buy new drums then also buy new bearings - getting the spring clips out to release the old bearings is something I found almost impossible. The new bearings should come with seals and new spring clips. By the parts from a motor factor - Peugeot are expensive for these parts.

If you fit new seals then make sure you know how the old ones came out - it isn't obvious which way the lip should be.

Finally - I suspect the real cause of your poor handbrake is failed auto adjusters. You can remove the drum, adjust them manually and refit the drum. It will save you all the above cost but there are three things that are needed:-
1) make sure that the cable has not been over adjusted at the handbrake, let of any excess adjustment.
2) You still need new stake nuts.
3) If the drum is lipped you should get new drums and shoes but you can bodge it by removing the lipping. If you don't remove the lipping then after adjusting the brakes you won't be able to get the drum back on.
NOTE: this is a little trial and error, make an adjustment, refit the drum and try the handbrake. repeat this until the drum still turns freely but the handbrake travel is not excessive.


	Morris 1000, Austin 1100, Escort Mk2, Fiat Mirafiori, Alfa 33, Alfa GT Junior, Alfasud, Alfetta GTV (2x), Alfa 164 3.0 V6, Alfa 164 2.0, Alfa 75 V6, Alfa 156 2.4 (diesel remapped 200bhp), Alfa 147 GTA (3.6 295bhp), Alfa 159 (diesel remapped 245bhp 300ft.lbs @ 2500rpm) Why isn't my daughter an Alfaholic?

A10PSW

Posted: Wed Nov 20, 2013 12:51 pm

Joined: Aug 09, 2012
Posts: 183
Trade Rating: +1

Nothing has failed, its just that when I replace the Axle at the weekend it looked like there was about 2mm left on them. The Drums were fine and came off easy.

kandlbarrett

Posted: Wed Nov 20, 2013 1:21 pm

Joined: Aug 04, 2011
Posts: 1343
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Swindon

yes, drums do usually come off easy. Just make sure you have new staked nuts and re-torque correctly. You do have a torque spanner don't you?


	Morris 1000, Austin 1100, Escort Mk2, Fiat Mirafiori, Alfa 33, Alfa GT Junior, Alfasud, Alfetta GTV (2x), Alfa 164 3.0 V6, Alfa 164 2.0, Alfa 75 V6, Alfa 156 2.4 (diesel remapped 200bhp), Alfa 147 GTA (3.6 295bhp), Alfa 159 (diesel remapped 245bhp 300ft.lbs @ 2500rpm) Why isn't my daughter an Alfaholic?

A10PSW

Posted: Wed Nov 20, 2013 1:25 pm

Joined: Aug 09, 2012
Posts: 183
Trade Rating: +1

Drums dont always come off easy, when i done my first axle one would not budge, it even snapped my puller! in the end I had to knock the stub axle through with a sledge hammer!!!

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