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Forums › The Car › 206 Problems › Are my torsion bars seized in place? |
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 Posted: Thu Dec 05, 2013 6:47 am |
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Joined: Oct 07, 2012
Posts: 98
Trade Rating: 0
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As the title says, We attempted to adjust my torsion bar at the weekend on my GTi180 and managed to get everything off (with alot of WD40 and some FFS's) and got as far as getting the torsion bars out...
Now do you hammer them through or do you need to pull them out towards you?
Because we followed the guide on here and a youtube video of how to adjust the torsion bar and after about 5 hourse of hammering the sh*t out of them found that they didnt even budge a tiny bit.
Im gutted because i really want to get my rear end down as i have recently fitted Coilovers & want to make the most out of them by winding them down at the front, but at the moment i have just positioned them in the usual height to match the rear
Anyone able to give any advice?? 
Much appreciated! 
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Posted: Thu Dec 05, 2013 7:34 am |
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Joined: Jun 08, 2010
Posts: 1035
Trade Rating: +17
Location: North Manchester
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if they are really sized in the best bet is to use BOTH methods at the same time 
do the socket and bolt on the side you want the bars to come out on and hammer the other side but after every 2 bangs tighten up the bolt on the bolt and socket side to keep it constantly pulling on the bar.
personally i get a long bolt with a nut and washer and put it through the socket and then use the nut to keep the tension on the bar and when hitting the other side put a small headed bolt ( i use a allen bolt ) in the thread and get a 14mm socket on a socket extension bar and use that for battering the bars out as the allen bolt will protect the tread from being damaged
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Posted: Thu Dec 05, 2013 10:13 am |
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Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Posts: 7093
Trade Rating: +11
Location: Suffolk
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Or you can always pay someone? Where abouts are located?
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Posted: Thu Dec 05, 2013 1:22 pm |
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Joined: Feb 08, 2010
Posts: 7045
Trade Rating: +5
Location: In the garage
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First of all buy new bolts/screws for the torsion bars. Take the old screws and washers out and then put the old screws back in - hand tight only. You don't want to damage the torsion bars so any impact can be taken by the screws instead.
You need some timber between trailing arm and some thing solid like a wall - otherwise you can end up knocking the arm off the axle tube rather than the bar out the arm.
The bars are inserted through the trailing arm into the axle on the other side, so they need to be knocked out the opposite direction. An 1/2" socket set extension bar and sledge hammer is what I use. and a friend too. Don't use WD-40, it's not a releasing oil. Use Plus Gas.
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| 2001 GTi 138, Bilstein Sprint dampers, H&R springs, 21mm Peugeot Sport torsion bars, 22mm rear ARB, Peugeot Sport Group A wishbones, 283mm discs, Goodridge stainless hoses, Maniflow 304 grade 4-2-1 2.5" manifold and system, 200 cell cat, Richard Longman head, 45mm Jenvey throttle bodies, 9.5mm TB spacers, 90mm air horns, Jenvey throttle linkage, Jenvey fuel rail, Aeromotive and Goodridge fuel fittings and braided hose, ITG sausage filter, Radtec custom radiator, Piper Ultimate Road cams, Piper vernier pulleys, Omex 600 ECU. Saxo electric PAS pump, Vibra Technics engine mounts. Samco coolant hoses, TTV steel flywheel, 4.76 final drive ratio, 307 CC 180 ratios. 2019 BMW 530i. 2017 Mercedes C300 convertible. | |
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Posted: Sat Dec 07, 2013 11:49 am |
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Joined: Jun 04, 2010
Posts: 1691
Trade Rating: +3
Location: northallerton
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also to help release them hit them in a bit then out thats how i got my bottom one moving after 2 days hitting it
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