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Forums › The Car › 206 Talk › how long to filt coilovers


 
 

how long to filt coilovers
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bbsrs2011
PostPosted: Wed Dec 18, 2013 6:41 am Up
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Hi,
I was wandering how long roughly it will take to fit the front coilovers and the rear shocks. I'm not fussed about adjusting the torsion bar at the moment, just fitting the kit.
Thanks

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Edward
PostPosted: Wed Dec 18, 2013 7:09 am Up
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Couple of hours maybe even 3. Don't forget to buy new nuts and bolts.
2001 GTi 138, Bilstein Sprint dampers, H&R springs, 21mm Peugeot Sport torsion bars, 22mm rear ARB, Peugeot Sport Group A wishbones, 283mm discs, Goodridge stainless hoses, Maniflow 304 grade 4-2-1 2.5" manifold and system, 200 cell cat, Richard Longman head, 45mm Jenvey throttle bodies, 9.5mm TB spacers, 90mm air horns, Jenvey throttle linkage, Jenvey fuel rail, Aeromotive and Goodridge fuel fittings and braided hose, ITG sausage filter, Radtec custom radiator, Piper Ultimate Road cams, Piper vernier pulleys, Omex 600 ECU. Saxo electric PAS pump, Vibra Technics engine mounts. Samco coolant hoses, TTV steel flywheel, 4.76 final drive ratio, 307 CC 180 ratios. 2019 BMW 530i. 2017 Mercedes C300 convertible.
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DanT
PostPosted: Wed Dec 18, 2013 8:17 am Up
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If you've never done it before i'd say 3/4 hours with swapping top mounts over etc. But with a mate and a bit of mechanical knowledge couple of hours
My 2004 Aegean Blue GTi 180 Progress Thread
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DSWR
PostPosted: Wed Dec 18, 2013 3:56 pm Up
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Edward wrote:
Couple of hours maybe even 3. Don't forget to buy new nuts and bolts.

use your old nuts and bolts unless they're damaged, they'll fit much better, just WD40 and what not.

The job should take two or so hours, like others have said. It's relatively easy if you know where stuff goes. Do one side at a time, then you'll have something to look at if you get confused.

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Schumi
PostPosted: Wed Dec 18, 2013 5:25 pm Up
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If you buy new top mounts it will be so much easier and quicker. Smile
2005 206 RC RED
Bilstein B14 Coilover / Brembo 4 Pot Front 330x28 - Rear 325x8 / Quaife ATB Limited Slip Diff / Janspeed Catback

Lot's of CNC machined customs pars. Smile
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Edward
PostPosted: Thu Dec 19, 2013 3:14 am Up
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DSWR wrote:
Edward wrote:
Couple of hours maybe even 3. Don't forget to buy new nuts and bolts.

use your old nuts and bolts unless they're damaged, they'll fit much better, just WD40 and what not.


So you'd re-use nyloc nuts? Very bad advice.

The old nuts and bolts could be over ten years old and corroded. Much safer to use new nuts and bolts.

2001 GTi 138, Bilstein Sprint dampers, H&R springs, 21mm Peugeot Sport torsion bars, 22mm rear ARB, Peugeot Sport Group A wishbones, 283mm discs, Goodridge stainless hoses, Maniflow 304 grade 4-2-1 2.5" manifold and system, 200 cell cat, Richard Longman head, 45mm Jenvey throttle bodies, 9.5mm TB spacers, 90mm air horns, Jenvey throttle linkage, Jenvey fuel rail, Aeromotive and Goodridge fuel fittings and braided hose, ITG sausage filter, Radtec custom radiator, Piper Ultimate Road cams, Piper vernier pulleys, Omex 600 ECU. Saxo electric PAS pump, Vibra Technics engine mounts. Samco coolant hoses, TTV steel flywheel, 4.76 final drive ratio, 307 CC 180 ratios. 2019 BMW 530i. 2017 Mercedes C300 convertible.
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DSWR
PostPosted: Thu Dec 19, 2013 9:53 pm Up
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Edward wrote:
DSWR wrote:
Edward wrote:
Couple of hours maybe even 3. Don't forget to buy new nuts and bolts.

use your old nuts and bolts unless they're damaged, they'll fit much better, just WD40 and what not.


So you'd re-use nyloc nuts? Very bad advice.

The old nuts and bolts could be over ten years old and corroded. Much safer to use new nuts and bolts.

I'd reuse the nuts that came off, unless damaged. These nuts have been on the car for 10 years, they fit perfectly, as you said, may have corroded over years, well, whatever they're connected to will have done the same = better fitment. I've always ran old bolts and nuts whenever possible. As someone whos in the motorsport scene, we've put new nuts on hubs and had wheels fall off, due to the thread around the bolts having corroded slightly. If you can replace bolt and nut, that's the best scenario, but if not, usually worth keeping it all original

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Kale
PostPosted: Fri Dec 20, 2013 1:41 am Up
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Never (knocks wood) have had a problem when reusing old bolts and nuts. The original suspension bolts are quite strong and if would be a downgrade if replaced with just some regular bolts, and the original ones cost quite much and they always have to order them from France if you go and ask for them at the dealership Very Happy

I've been hearing the rant that the bolts and nuts should always be replaced but I have never seen anyone, not even at the dealership renew suspension bolts just because it is a common recommendation. IF the bolt or nut is clearly knackered - then of course but not just for the sake of it.

Engine internals are a different thing when it comes to renewing bolts when servicing parts.

306 S16, 306 GTI-6, 605 SV24, 205 GTI-6, 2x405 Mi16, VW T3 1.9TD/AAZ, Audi TT mk2 3.2 quattro, Audi A6 2.7 biturbo quattro
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bbsrs2011
PostPosted: Sun Dec 22, 2013 3:48 pm Up
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thanks for the help Smile
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commandosqueak
PostPosted: Sun Dec 22, 2013 6:44 pm Up
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couple of hours depends on knowledge tools and equipment available. if you get stuck you can always come and ask us Smile
2003 206 1.4 HDi (3 Door) LX - Cypress Green - KQM

2003 206 SW 2.0 HDI Grey
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