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Forums › The Car › 206 Problems › 1 rear door has no speaker - can I wire one in? |
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 Posted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 11:24 am |
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Joined: Aug 17, 2015
Posts: 9
Trade Rating: 0
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Hi everyone,
I am new on here, so please excuse my lack of knowledge, should this be a common problem.
I've decided to change all the door speakers in my 2002 5 door 206 and have some fairly bog standard Pioneers ordered for the front (I have the door cards off). However, I replaced the nearside rear door (both rear doors have manual windows) some time ago with one from a scrappy due to major dent, and have only now realised that this one does not have a speaker - whereas the original driver side one does. I have since disposed of the old dented door (so can't transplant the electrics). Does anyone know if I can wire a speaker into the plug that is in place for this door (which currently just carries the electrics for the lock)? And if so, please explain the process?
I can just swap the speaker in the driver side rear door for the aftermarket versions when purchased - no problem there, but I'd prefer to have two working in the rear. Any advice greatly appreciated.
P.S: I'm very much a novice in DIY car work, but have a reasonable selection of basic tools.
Many thanks,
Karl.
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Posted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 12:01 pm |
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Joined: Apr 14, 2010
Posts: 713
Trade Rating: +2
Location: Gothenburg, Sweden
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| PugBear wrote: |
Hi everyone,
I am new on here, so please excuse my lack of knowledge, should this be a common problem.
I've decided to change all the door speakers in my 2002 5 door 206 and have some fairly bog standard Pioneers ordered for the front (I have the door cards off). However, I replaced the nearside rear door (both rear doors have manual windows) some time ago with one from a scrappy due to major dent, and have only now realised that this one does not have a speaker - whereas the original driver side one does. I have since disposed of the old dented door (so can't transplant the electrics). Does anyone know if I can wire a speaker into the plug that is in place for this door (which currently just carries the electrics for the lock)? And if so, please explain the process?
I can just swap the speaker in the driver side rear door for the aftermarket versions when purchased - no problem there, but I'd prefer to have two working in the rear. Any advice greatly appreciated.
P.S: I'm very much a novice in DIY car work, but have a reasonable selection of basic tools.
Many thanks,
Karl. |
I'd say the general consensus in the car stereo crowd is "skip the rears and spend the extra money on a grade better fronts + sound damping."
Then again I've got 8" tri-axials in the rear shelf, giving a bit of fill while the front components deliver the main content.
But wiring; I'd pull the stereo, and feed in my new wire into the hole,
run it to the side and down (as much as possible following existing wiring bundles) toward the kick panel (bottom front corner of the front door opening),
undo the mushroom clip holding the carpet by the kickpanel,
then pull the bottom of the front door seal off and run the wire in the "cable trench" below the carpet until you get to the B-pillar,
here you need to loosen the trim (don't know how, got no rear doors on mine). Unplug the connector at the rubber sleeve going to the door.
Now you can either get the little metal connectors that crimp onto the wire and fit into the connector - for both parts of the connector, In that case cut and crimp and insert, then run (straightened stiff coat hanger wire is useful here )remaining wire through the rubber sleeve and into the door to the speaker location. Beware to route it so a lowered window wont snag it.
OR you can skip the crimp connectors and snake the wire past the connector blocks or maybe drill a hole on an unused spot in the connector blocks... After the connectors it's the same as above.
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| Silvermetallic 2004 206 RC | |
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Posted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 12:19 pm |
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Joined: Aug 17, 2015
Posts: 9
Trade Rating: 0
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Thanks v much mtempsch.
Some useful info in there. Thankfully, as the car was actually originally wired for rear door speakers (it's just the replacement passenger side rear door that's missing the wiring) I only have to figure out how to get the wires from the new speaker connected into the existing plug on the B pillar. Sounds reasonably simple - I'll give it a go.
Thanks again,
Karl.
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Posted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 12:25 pm |
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Joined: Apr 14, 2010
Posts: 713
Trade Rating: +2
Location: Gothenburg, Sweden
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| PugBear wrote: |
Thanks v much mtempsch.
Some useful info in there. Thankfully, as the car was actually originally wired for rear door speakers (it's just the replacement passenger side rear door that's missing the wiring) I only have to figure out how to get the wires from the new speaker connected into the existing plug on the B pillar. Sounds reasonably simple - I'll give it a go.
Thanks again,
Karl. |
Ah, OK, if the existing wires are connected to the 'car side connector', then the easiest would be to get the little metal crimp connectors to go into the 'door side connector', crimp to wire, insert into correct empty spots in the connector, run wire through rubber sleeve and through the door, routing it away from a lowered window. Shouldn't need to touch anything of the interior except the rear door card.
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| Silvermetallic 2004 206 RC | |
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Posted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 1:07 pm |
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Joined: Aug 17, 2015
Posts: 9
Trade Rating: 0
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Perfect, thanks again for your help. I'll give it a shot at the weekend when I should have a set of speakers for the rear doors. I'll report back if I encounter any serious difficulties (fingers crossed!).
Cheers,
Karl.
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Posted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 1:22 pm |
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Joined: Apr 14, 2010
Posts: 713
Trade Rating: +2
Location: Gothenburg, Sweden
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| PugBear wrote: |
Perfect, thanks again for your help. I'll give it a shot at the weekend when I should have a set of speakers for the rear doors. I'll report back if I encounter any serious difficulties (fingers crossed!).
Cheers,
Karl. |
Note that the crimp connectors aren't the ones you ordinarily see - they're bare (no isolation, as that is provided by the connector plug) and have a small tab or two to hold them in place in the connector plug, angled and springy to allow them to slide in, but not back out unless you get a small tool in there to press the tab down).
Best bet is probably your dealer, or possibly a well stocked car parts or electronics store, but you'd need to know exact type and size to properly fit the plug.
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| Silvermetallic 2004 206 RC | |
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Posted: Fri Aug 21, 2015 2:25 pm |
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Joined: Aug 17, 2015
Posts: 9
Trade Rating: 0
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Ok, I was lucky enough to find a nearside rear door wiring loom online, which appears to hold wiring for the door speaker and looks to be the same as the loom in the offside rear door. So I just have to wait for it to arrive, transplant the loom over and hey presto, I should be able to wire in the new speakers no problem - although that's assuming that no nasty little surprises crop up, and they always do !
Quick question, is there any need to disconnect the battery when changing the speakers, the door loom and the head unit? I've read some horror stories about the "multiplex" wiring in these cars and that you need to be really careful about disconnecting and reconnecting the battery?
My car is a 2002 model and has the more square looking stalk for radio controls next to the steering wheel - which I believe is a sign that it's multiplexed.
Cheers,
Karl.
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Posted: Sat Aug 22, 2015 3:12 pm |
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Joined: Aug 17, 2015
Posts: 9
Trade Rating: 0
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Hello again,
I have a mulitplexed (i think) 2002 5 door petrol 206. I have changed the front door speakers and tried to start the car up to see how they performed, but no joy. Car is in eco mode and will not start. I think this may be down to the battery having gone flat as the car hasn't been started in a few days. I want to disconnect the battery and recharge until such time as I get a new one. May I ask, I have always changed batteries by disconnecting the negative terminal first and reconnected with the negative terminal last. However, the car manual does not explain which way they should be disconnected but that the negative terminal should be reconnected first..
Is this correct? Or can someone just clarify this procedure for me please?
Thanks v much,
Karl.
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Posted: Sat Aug 22, 2015 3:18 pm |
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Joined: Jun 20, 2012
Posts: 1171
Trade Rating: +1
Location: West Country
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Posted: Sat Aug 22, 2015 3:29 pm |
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Joined: Aug 17, 2015
Posts: 9
Trade Rating: 0
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Thanks Sim. Yeah, it doesn't actually state what order to disconnect or reconnect the battery clamps on a multiplexed system battery - it does for the non plexed systems.
Cheers,
Karl.
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Posted: Sat Aug 22, 2015 3:31 pm |
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Joined: Jun 20, 2012
Posts: 1171
Trade Rating: +1
Location: West Country
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Good point! In that case my gut feeling is that multiplexed "inherits" non-plexed order 
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Posted: Sat Aug 22, 2015 3:54 pm |
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Joined: Aug 17, 2015
Posts: 9
Trade Rating: 0
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What gets me is that the car manual states that when reconnecting the battery, the negative clamp should go on first - which is the opposite of what I'd always done on previous cars - I wonder if there's a reason for this..
The electrical systems in these cars (especially the multiplexed variants) seem to demand a certain amount of knowledge, which I, unfortunately, am not in possession of !
Cheers,
Karl.
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Posted: Sat Aug 22, 2015 4:16 pm |
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Joined: Jun 20, 2012
Posts: 1171
Trade Rating: +1
Location: West Country
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Good point, anyone with electrical background could enlighten us?
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Posted: Sat Aug 22, 2015 4:50 pm |
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Joined: Apr 14, 2010
Posts: 713
Trade Rating: +2
Location: Gothenburg, Sweden
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| Sim wrote: |
| Good point, anyone with electrical background could enlighten us? |
I'm not aware of any clear reason, in respect to other systems in the car (if someone does, please tell!), as there will be in-rush currents wherever a circuit is reconnected, positive negative, inbetween...
The 'disconnect ground first, reconnect ground last' for the battery comes from the risk of shorting your tool between the positive post and ANY grounded object around while the ground connection is attached. If you start with disconnecting the ground, the only point you can effectively short to is the positive post, and that is often covered these days.
But with the no-tool quick connector on the positive terminal, that risk is effectively eliminated.
Since my quick connector vibrated loose a couple of times, I've replaced it with a standard type connector and follow the 'loosen ground first' routine.
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| Silvermetallic 2004 206 RC | |
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Posted: Sun Aug 23, 2015 8:28 am |
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Joined: Aug 17, 2015
Posts: 9
Trade Rating: 0
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Thanks mtempsch. Yeah, to be fair, I'm sure lots of batteries have been changed on these cars the traditional way without any issue. The "multiplex" thing, coupled with my general lack of automotive knowledge, may be combining to make me unjustifiably nervous about a comparatively straightforward task !
P.S: Varta D15 60AH seems to be a well regarded product for the task (on a 1.1 petrol, 2002)?
Cheers,
Karl.
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