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Forums › The Car › 206 Talk › Transplant - ECU - Pre-plex and Mux


 
 

Transplant - ECU - Pre-plex and Mux
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pAvax
PostPosted: Tue Oct 25, 2016 10:22 am Up
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As I have a bad subframe (needs replacement), I am looking at options to get my car in the best shape possible again. That is either getting a new subframe welded on or to get a spares/repairs CC and transplant my stuff.

On the latter I have a question!

If I were to move my engine, 2001 pre-plex, into a newer car and want to take my ECU with it... will it work? Will the BSI or anything else throw a strop, or can I just move the engine, gearbox, my stuff and ECU over without too much hassle?

Are there any crucial things I should consider while doing this? Any help/info is more than welcome!

Current project: Ciri
Silver 206cc - 2.0 - 2001
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Edward
PostPosted: Tue Oct 25, 2016 10:56 am Up
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Engines haven't really changed much....so as long as the engine is going into a car that already had that engine (I. E 2.0 to 2.0) it won't be a problem.

Subframes aren't welded in either.

2001 GTi 138, Bilstein Sprint dampers, H&R springs, 21mm Peugeot Sport torsion bars, 22mm rear ARB, Peugeot Sport Group A wishbones, 283mm discs, Goodridge stainless hoses, Maniflow 304 grade 4-2-1 2.5" manifold and system, 200 cell cat, Richard Longman head, 45mm Jenvey throttle bodies, 9.5mm TB spacers, 90mm air horns, Jenvey throttle linkage, Jenvey fuel rail, Aeromotive and Goodridge fuel fittings and braided hose, ITG sausage filter, Radtec custom radiator, Piper Ultimate Road cams, Piper vernier pulleys, Omex 600 ECU. Saxo electric PAS pump, Vibra Technics engine mounts. Samco coolant hoses, TTV steel flywheel, 4.76 final drive ratio. 2013 Volkswagen CC GT 2.0 TSi. 2013 mercedes B180
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pAvax
PostPosted: Tue Oct 25, 2016 11:03 am Up
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Edward wrote:
Engines haven't really changed much....so as long as the engine is going into a car that already had that engine (I. E 2.0 to 2.0) it won't be a problem.

Subframes aren't welded in either.
Thank you. Yeah, I'd swap it for a 2.0. And I knew that the engines changed little, but I got a nice remap (lovely torque it gives out!) which I would not want to lose.

As for the subframe, I thought they were point welded on?

Well the main part of the frame is slightly bent (steering is not affected, wheels are spot on), the dent is pretty nasty and I notice it when fitting the fan casing and I can't get the front and side nicely aligned.

Here a pic...
 

Current project: Ciri
Silver 206cc - 2.0 - 2001
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Edward
PostPosted: Tue Oct 25, 2016 12:06 pm Up
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You won't be able to move the ecu I imagine. I'd just get another remap.
Subframe is just 4 bolts to the body. Two for the steering rack and one for gear linkage, one for rear engine mount and PAS pipe bracket.

2001 GTi 138, Bilstein Sprint dampers, H&R springs, 21mm Peugeot Sport torsion bars, 22mm rear ARB, Peugeot Sport Group A wishbones, 283mm discs, Goodridge stainless hoses, Maniflow 304 grade 4-2-1 2.5" manifold and system, 200 cell cat, Richard Longman head, 45mm Jenvey throttle bodies, 9.5mm TB spacers, 90mm air horns, Jenvey throttle linkage, Jenvey fuel rail, Aeromotive and Goodridge fuel fittings and braided hose, ITG sausage filter, Radtec custom radiator, Piper Ultimate Road cams, Piper vernier pulleys, Omex 600 ECU. Saxo electric PAS pump, Vibra Technics engine mounts. Samco coolant hoses, TTV steel flywheel, 4.76 final drive ratio. 2013 Volkswagen CC GT 2.0 TSi. 2013 mercedes B180
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Edward
PostPosted: Tue Oct 25, 2016 12:06 pm Up
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Can you not get a repair piece to weld on place of that bent bit?
2001 GTi 138, Bilstein Sprint dampers, H&R springs, 21mm Peugeot Sport torsion bars, 22mm rear ARB, Peugeot Sport Group A wishbones, 283mm discs, Goodridge stainless hoses, Maniflow 304 grade 4-2-1 2.5" manifold and system, 200 cell cat, Richard Longman head, 45mm Jenvey throttle bodies, 9.5mm TB spacers, 90mm air horns, Jenvey throttle linkage, Jenvey fuel rail, Aeromotive and Goodridge fuel fittings and braided hose, ITG sausage filter, Radtec custom radiator, Piper Ultimate Road cams, Piper vernier pulleys, Omex 600 ECU. Saxo electric PAS pump, Vibra Technics engine mounts. Samco coolant hoses, TTV steel flywheel, 4.76 final drive ratio. 2013 Volkswagen CC GT 2.0 TSi. 2013 mercedes B180
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pAvax
PostPosted: Tue Oct 25, 2016 12:43 pm Up
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Might be the best option yes.

I cannot weld myself, but I have a body/repair/workshop not too far away from me. I will try and see if I can get this piece and have it replaced.

In fairness, I rather not give up on this car and make it as good as possible... instead of dropping out and doing a transplant. Feels like giving up early!

The top bit, where the bumper bar sits can be hammered smooth, that is not an issue... and then I should be able to get a lower subframe yes.

Just checking Servicebox, it appears they call it a part of the 'cant rail'.

 


Perhaps I should get it crudely taken away at a breakers and take it home for prepping and contact the shop indeed. Potentially they can help me getting everything straight again too, should be lovely.

Ugh, wish my daily didn't have a problem (blasted Ford Focus with their bonnet issues!), else would have taken this car apart now and got things done for the winter. Hoping to get it tip-top come spring so I can continue improving it before potentially enhancing the power further (read: throwing money at it).

Current project: Ciri
Silver 206cc - 2.0 - 2001
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MrBSI
PostPosted: Tue Oct 25, 2016 4:00 pm Up
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The bent part in your picture is the chassis leg, its designed to deform in a front on accident.

Check the rest of the front end is straight then have the bent one replaced for a proper job.

As for your Ford Focus, I take it you have a faulty lock barrel & bonnet catch? Repair kits are available on everyone's favourite online auction site - its a very common problem.

2016 Peugeot 308 Puretech 1.2 petrol 130bhp Allure hatch with panoramic roof & NAC retrofit.
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pAvax
PostPosted: Wed Oct 26, 2016 10:11 am Up
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MrBSI wrote:
The bent part in your picture is the chassis leg, its designed to deform in a front on accident.

Check the rest of the front end is straight then have the bent one replaced for a proper job.
Yes, and I am not going to give it up on it. So will be replaced... Will swing by a workshop over the weekend to see costs etc.

The rest is rather straight, other than needing some pushing and pulling in places. I do wonder what happened with the previous owners!

Quote::
As for your Ford Focus, I take it you have a faulty lock barrel & bonnet catch? Repair kits are available on everyone's favourite online auction site - its a very common problem.
Yep, but I don't have too much time. It is dark when I get home from work etc. The grill is off (in pieces :() and the car is on ramps... In the weekend I am going to squeeze my hand in to open the b*****d... and then order again what I need to replace. Great idea by Ford, shyte execution as usual.

-------
I have decided to replace the part (as said before) and to make a new housing for my fan as well - using aluminium or something. Just to make it tidier and to expose my fan a bit more (large parts are hidden by that silly plastic). Just to keep me busy and as part of the rebuilt of the front Smile

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Silver 206cc - 2.0 - 2001
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gazza82
PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2016 12:53 pm Up
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That "silly plastic" is the fan shroud and will help the airflow through the rad .. you may find it isnt half as efficient with it missing as the air will blow out the sides!
Down to just the 1.4 HDi. Cayman Green 2.0i CC sold.
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gazza82
PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2016 12:54 pm Up
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pAvax wrote:
If I were to move my engine, 2001 pre-plex, into a newer car and want to take my ECU with it... will it work? Will the BSI or anything else throw a strop, or can I just move the engine, gearbox, my stuff and ECU over without too much hassle?

You aren't going to be able to use a pre-mux ecu in a MUX car ... wiring looms will be completely different!

Down to just the 1.4 HDi. Cayman Green 2.0i CC sold.
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pAvax
PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2016 1:01 pm Up
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gazza82 wrote:
pAvax wrote:
If I were to move my engine, 2001 pre-plex, into a newer car and want to take my ECU with it... will it work? Will the BSI or anything else throw a strop, or can I just move the engine, gearbox, my stuff and ECU over without too much hassle?

You aren't going to be able to use a pre-mux ecu in a MUX car ... wiring looms will be completely different!
Yeah, I see now the wording is wrong!

I was going to stay pre-mux... but with newer car I meant a later date of purchase. I want to stay pre-mux!

Sorry for that.

So would have been 51 plate to 51 plate without damaged frame.

Current project: Ciri
Silver 206cc - 2.0 - 2001
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pAvax
PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2016 1:08 pm Up
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gazza82 wrote:
That "silly plastic" is the fan shroud and will help the airflow through the rad .. you may find it isnt half as efficient with it missing as the air will blow out the sides!
Yep, I see what you mean (concentrating air to the center of the radiator) -and ensuring that the fan directs the air inwards/towards the radiator instead of around.

However there should be more elegant solutions... But will see, first the necessary items such as ensuring that the frame has a new lower leg.

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macca1411
PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2016 4:31 pm Up
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pAvax wrote:
gazza82 wrote:
That "silly plastic" is the fan shroud and will help the airflow through the rad .. you may find it isnt half as efficient with it missing as the air will blow out the sides!
Yep, I see what you mean (concentrating air to the center of the radiator) -and ensuring that the fan directs the air inwards/towards the radiator instead of around.

However there should be more elegant solutions... But will see, first the necessary items such as ensuring that the frame has a new lower leg.

I'm pretty sure Peugeot will have spent a fortune on R&D and will have already come up with the best design through testing. By removing some of the airflow around the radiator could cause further problems as the heat in the engine bay will increase. I'd stick with the tried and tested design.

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Sim
PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2016 9:02 pm Up
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macca1411 wrote:
pAvax wrote:
gazza82 wrote:
That "silly plastic" is the fan shroud and will help the airflow through the rad .. you may find it isnt half as efficient with it missing as the air will blow out the sides!
Yep, I see what you mean (concentrating air to the center of the radiator) -and ensuring that the fan directs the air inwards/towards the radiator instead of around.

However there should be more elegant solutions... But will see, first the necessary items such as ensuring that the frame has a new lower leg.

I'm pretty sure Peugeot will have spent a fortune on R&D and will have already come up with the best design through testing. By removing some of the airflow around the radiator could cause further problems as the heat in the engine bay will increase. I'd stick with the tried and tested design.

My thoughts exactly after the pugpicker thread comment about front grilles, it's most important to cool the engine from within (rad), than just having airflow on it's outside (some heat does dissipate when that huge HDi 2.0 engine cover goes to bin:) Many people also do away with bottom engine covers

But back at the bumper grille efficiency: does it mean SP mesh compromises the cooling? Surprised (smells like a new topic is in order:) )

2.0 HDi, year 2000 (Lockdown 1.0 beater)
GTi 180, year 2004 (in hibernation after endless driving fun in 2019, queued for "cambelt in tight spaces")
Missus' 1.6 16v CC, year 2007 (rust-ic underbody sandblast pending)
£50 1.4 HDi, year 2002 (seatless transporter, Lockdown 2.0 beater)
..couple more Franco/American-made/owned ones, journey depending
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pAvax
PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2016 9:42 pm Up
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macca1411 wrote:
pAvax wrote:
gazza82 wrote:
That "silly plastic" is the fan shroud and will help the airflow through the rad .. you may find it isnt half as efficient with it missing as the air will blow out the sides!
Yep, I see what you mean (concentrating air to the center of the radiator) -and ensuring that the fan directs the air inwards/towards the radiator instead of around.

However there should be more elegant solutions... But will see, first the necessary items such as ensuring that the frame has a new lower leg.

I'm pretty sure Peugeot will have spent a fortune on R&D and will have already come up with the best design through testing. By removing some of the airflow around the radiator could cause further problems as the heat in the engine bay will increase. I'd stick with the tried and tested design.
For discussion sake... would Peugeot not look for the balance between easy to maintain, assemble and as cheap as possible to make? Which would mean making compromises... Thus there could be scope for a better solution which would not be profitable to do for a manufacturer (for mass production) but would be for me?

This nicely illustrates your point earlier by the way:
 

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