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 Posted: Mon May 15, 2017 7:17 am |
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Joined: Feb 08, 2010
Posts: 2368
Trade Rating: +15
Location: Gloucestershire, UK
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Ever wonder why you touched something that wasn't that broken?
I'm wondering if I should have started this whole 'lets learn stuff' exercise!
(The answer of course is yes, and I wouldn't change it)
So since the oil change (and gearbox oil / induction filter change that I haven't posted about yet), the engine yesterday developed a rhythmic tapping, that increases speed as the revs go up. It eventually 'disappears' at about 2.5k revs, but I think that's just because it gets drowned out.
You can hear it at idle, and with the bonnet open and it sounds to me like it's coming from the coil pack area. The coil pack itself has gone pretty mouldy since the car has been sat doing not a lot.
I can't remember when the spark plugs were last done, but I vaguely recall buying Super 4's, but I think it's got to be getting on for 4-5 years!
I spotted this thread in the wild about a loose spark splug but is it likely one of my plugs has worked loose after all this time (at least 3 years)?
There was another thread around that recommends let things be for 800 miles after a service but I'm not sure if I like the sound of that.
Spark plugs wasn't on my list to do, but having realised that it's been so long since they're likely to have been changed (it may only be as recently as 3 years hah!), should I start by changing them before concerning myself with a coil pack change? (which I could rip out of the donor car)
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Posted: Mon May 15, 2017 3:43 pm |
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Joined: Feb 10, 2010
Posts: 4266
Trade Rating: +4
Location: Palestine
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Well you better get the EYQUEM spark plugs,as it's the best for the 1.4-1.6 engines :).
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Posted: Mon May 15, 2017 4:17 pm |
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Joined: Nov 27, 2010
Posts: 11513
Trade Rating: +10
Location: What's it to you? ? ?
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There is a brown electronic valve thats part of the breather system, get yourself a torch & have a look at the back of the engine & look down in the general area between the coolant expansion bottle & inlet manifold.
The brown valve can be a source of an annoying tapping noise.
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| Toyota C-HR GR Sport 2.0 Hybrid with JBL & Alcantara packs. | |
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Posted: Tue May 16, 2017 6:37 am |
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Joined: Feb 08, 2010
Posts: 2368
Trade Rating: +15
Location: Gloucestershire, UK
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| MrBSI wrote: |
There is a brown electronic valve thats part of the breather system, get yourself a torch & have a look at the back of the engine & look down in the general area between the coolant expansion bottle & inlet manifold.
The brown valve can be a source of an annoying tapping noise. |
Couldn't find a torch last night, and the phone's built-in one broke some time ago. I'll take a look tonight when I get back from work.
The noise isn't present from a cold start, it takes a minute or two for it to appear.
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Posted: Tue May 16, 2017 8:37 pm |
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Joined: Feb 08, 2010
Posts: 2368
Trade Rating: +15
Location: Gloucestershire, UK
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| MrBSI wrote: |
There is a brown electronic valve thats part of the breather system, get yourself a torch & have a look at the back of the engine & look down in the general area between the coolant expansion bottle & inlet manifold.
The brown valve can be a source of an annoying tapping noise. |
Thanks to Timon, I isolated this as being the Purge Canister Valve and not easy to get to. It's definitely not this making the noise, as the source noise is a lot louder.
To ensure the valve was working properly, Timon got me to hook up PP2000 and run the actuator test for it, and it merrily clicked away nice and quiet.
While I was there, I also ran a full diagnostics, which came up with the following (unrelated?) items:
I'm guess the voltage coherence is either because I haven't strapped the current battery down, or is related to when the last one died.
The locking ones are interesting and I guess tie in with the locking/unlocking issues which seem to have died down.
Not sure what the Engine Control Unit connection might refer to. But that's for another day.
So, current recommendation is to take out the Coil Pack from the donor car tomorrow and see if that fixes things.
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Posted: Thu May 18, 2017 8:57 am |
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Joined: Feb 08, 2010
Posts: 2368
Trade Rating: +15
Location: Gloucestershire, UK
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Coil pack change made no difference (possibly made it sound worse, although the engine was already warm when I did the change) but there may be definite problems with the spark plugs - as there's a lot of brown deposit on the caps from the pack.
There were no problems with the replacement pack from the donor car, and those caps that were affected are not on the side of the noise, and the deposits could be from before the last change. Who knows!
Weather is looking good tonight, so will change the plugs too tonight anyway.
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Posted: Fri May 19, 2017 6:30 am |
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Joined: Feb 08, 2010
Posts: 2368
Trade Rating: +15
Location: Gloucestershire, UK
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So, changed the plugs - and this is what I found:
...and the two worst of those weren't in the position where the noise was coming from. However, where the noise did seem to be coming from, I was able, with absolutely no effort at all, to undo and remove the spark plug by hand. Put new Super 4's back in, ran the engine and it still sounded a little tappety.
Ran the engine this morning, and not a noise [clutch bearing aside] in ear-shot.
(Not self-adjusting tappets are they?)
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