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Forums › The Car › Solved 206 Problems › Most electrical functions gone


 
 

Most electrical functions gone
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VorTechS
PostPosted: Thu Mar 22, 2018 4:30 pm Up
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Hey all,

Just been driving home and heard a click under the steering wheel and most of the major electrical functions have stopped working including Wipers, Lights, Stereo, Central locking and the MFD.

With so much going out at once I'm guessing its a fuse. Any one any idea which one?

And any need to observe the BSI shutdown sequence for just a fuse (if that's even going to be possible).

 

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VorTechS
PostPosted: Sat Mar 24, 2018 1:00 pm Up
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The saga continues. Followed a BSI reset procedure, no bong on switching on headlights. Car now will not start.
Did the key test, drivers door open and key in ignition. No beeping.

Once I got the car home the other day, I switched it off and on again to check it still turned over and it did. So I'm guessing the BSI had lost the key information.

Fired up planet, and tried to reprogram key. On verification of the key it seems to go back to the beginning and after 3 attempts says it's failed.

Global ECU test can't communicate with the COM2000.

Fuse check underway next....

 

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VorTechS
PostPosted: Sat Mar 24, 2018 2:03 pm Up
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Fixed. Second fuse in on the bottom row under the steering wheel had blown.

Odd that it stopped the car starting at all, but once this was changed - it fired up first time and all non-working electrical functions are back to a working state!

 

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MrBSI
PostPosted: Sat Mar 24, 2018 2:51 pm Up
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The transponder immobiliser aerial is connected to the Comm 2000 unit.

If there's no communication with the Comm 2000 then the immobiliser won't disarm / BSI unit won't see the transponder key signal.

Toyota C-HR GR Sport 2.0 Hybrid with JBL & Alcantara packs.
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VorTechS
PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2018 6:21 am Up
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Ah, how odd that it's connected to the COM2000 unit. It's not the sort of function that you'd associate with it!

Well, the problem solving was short lived - as it's blown on the way to work again. Are there any 'common' causes for this fuse to keep blowing?

I'm a bit hesitant to shove a 25a fuse in there, as really that'd be only a short-term fix and could result in something more catastrophic happening further down the line.

 

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MrBSI
PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2018 7:23 am Up
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The transponder aerial clipped around the end of the ignition barrel that reads the chip inside the key is plugged in to the back of the Comm 2000.

The radio shares the same fuse ( the radio is protected by 2 fuses )

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VorTechS
PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2018 7:40 am Up
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MrBSI wrote:
The transponder aerial clipped around the end of the ignition barrel that reads the chip inside the key is plugged in to the back of the Comm 2000.

The radio shares the same fuse ( the radio is protected by 2 fuses )

Ah! Thanks!

I think I might start with the stereo as when the car was working, there didn't appear to be any COMM 2000 functions not working (albeit I couldn't test the stereo control stalk for obvious).

The previous owner had thrown in a cheap stereo which I don't use anyway - so I won't miss it. Let's see if removing it stops the fuse from blowing. (Although I'm probably going to need to find some radio removal keys first!)

Otherwise is it likely to only be the COMM 2000 unit blowing the fuse? (The car ran fine yesterday a few times whilst it was not moving... which could of course be a red herring, and I wasn't trying to use any COMM 2000 function at the time the fuse blew on either occasion that it has blown so far)

 

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MrBSI
PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2018 9:12 am Up
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VorTechS wrote:


The previous owner had thrown in a cheap stereo which I don't use anyway - so I won't miss it. Let's see if removing it stops the fuse from blowing. (Although I'm probably going to need to find some radio removal keys first!)


Wonder what the wiring is like to this cheap stereo?

Unclip the top panel with the hazard warning switch in ( watch the wiring clipped under the panel )

Then remove the 2 x torx 20 screws that secure the radio panel, pull the top of the panel forward & the panel including the radio will be free allowing you to unclip the radio from its bracket.

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VorTechS
PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2018 9:26 am Up
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MrBSI wrote:


Wonder what the wiring is like to this cheap stereo?

Unclip the top panel with the hazard warning switch in ( watch the wiring clipped under the panel )

Then remove the 2 x torx 20 screws that secure the radio panel, pull the top of the panel forward & the panel including the radio will be free allowing you to unclip the radio from its bracket.

We'll soon find out! Wink

Hopefully the stereo comes away with the console surround.

Although first, I need to actually get the car home! Given it's sat in the car park I'm going to have to go and find a fuse from somewhere as there isn't a spare now and I'm assuming the only reason the car fired up when I got it home was because the BSI hadn't gone into economy mode every time I tried it, which it now will have.

I've taken the precaution of ordering lots of 20a fuses anyway just in case this angle of attack doesn't work over the next few days. Very Happy

 

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VorTechS
PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2018 6:27 pm Up
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So I managed to get some fuses from a friend who owns a garage around the corner from where I work. Plugged one in, and it immediately blew. By this time he'd shut up shop, and so I called out the AA with the intention of getting the stereo removed.

Once removed, the wiring didn't look as bad as I was expecting:

 


Not sure about the wire coming from the aerial to the loom..?

The AA guy (really helpful!) read a service bulletin that mentioned fuses blowing as a result of the cigarette lighter. Checked that too and it doesn't look in great shape. Removed the lighter itself as well as the stereo and ask seems well again.

So I've the next few days I'm going to keep both removed and see how it goes. If no repeat occurs, I'll plug the lighter back in and see if it was that.

Gut feeling is not, and perhaps it's something with this stereo that's gone on over time (like being on the non-switched live forever perhaps?)

 

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mtempsch
PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2018 7:40 pm Up
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Wire running up parallel with the antenna coax wire should be power to the antenna amplifier in the base of antenna. Usually connects to pin5 of an aftermarket HU power socket (ISO connector A), remote turn on, +12V whenever HU is on.
Silvermetallic 2004 206 RC
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VorTechS
PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2018 9:51 pm Up
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mtempsch wrote:
Wire running up parallel with the antenna coax wire should be power to the antenna amplifier in the base of antenna. Usually connects to pin5 of an aftermarket HU power socket (ISO connector A), remote turn on, +12V whenever HU is on.

Thanks for that. I'll have another closer look at that then.

I don't know if you can see it well in the the picture, but in the bottom right there's a yellow wire which appears to come straight off the loom (looping around the other cables) and into a connector plug which then runs along the aerial. It doesn't appear to be connected in any way to the HU plugs. The 'shiny paper' is covering (and presumably once wrapped) the connector in question. (We didn't unravel it)

Fingers crossed, I have a nice incident free day of motoring tomorrow...

 

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mtempsch
PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2018 3:23 am Up
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Could be they wired it to a switched +12V from the car instead
Silvermetallic 2004 206 RC
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VorTechS
PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2018 6:28 am Up
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So. Last night and this morning went a little better. No blown fuse. But some other odd, possibly un-related issues are occuring:

1) When the car started this morning it turned the headlights on, although I haven't turned auto-lights on since the BSI reset. I pulled into a garage for fuel, which was needed and not unusual, and the lights didn't come on again (despite it being visibly darker). Also randomly after the garage stop the headlight instrument cluster light came on briefly (about 3 or 4 seconds), but the instrument cluster didn't light up.

2) An ABS/ESP/ASR error was thrown, and the ABS light turned on. After stopping at the garage, it went out again after the usual initial warning

I'm not a big fan of co-incidences!

 


Last edited by VorTechS on Tue Mar 27, 2018 6:30 am; edited 1 time in total
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VorTechS
PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2018 6:29 am Up
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mtempsch wrote:
Could be they wired it to a switched +12V from the car instead

I'll get another picture of it, but you wouldn't think this is a DIY job and it came like that out of the factory.

 

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