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 Posted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 6:04 am |
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Joined: Feb 13, 2010
Posts: 275
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Devon
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This guild is useful when you come to buy any car, or it will help identify the history of your own car.
Rule of thumb: Bodywork is Honest work.
The easiest and the most direct way of really knowing a cars history is to look at its body work. 9/10 a car that has tatty bodywork that the owner has simpt on by getting a really poor quality and cheap job, will usually point to a car not being looked after mechanically as well.
If bodywork is done properly, none of the following should ever be visible. I would welcome any customer of ours to bring this list on a car we have done and try and find any of the following.
I will now explain a few little pointers for when your looking at a car, ether buying or your own to assess how well its been looked after.
Painting Lingo and How to look for it
Peel - Peel is the effect you get in paint just after its been sprayed, it called this as it looks like orange peal, not flat and in the light you will see hexagonal reflections rather then a smooth reflection
Nibs - When you spray paint from a gun, static will attract loads of small dust particles which will settle in the paint. When spraying in a both this is minimalised however you will still get some ethere there. After you sprayed your top coat you use a procedure called flatting back. This is where you use a fine sand paper and rub the nibs out. After this you polish the car with a cutting compound and bring it up to a nice flat finish.
Blend lines - All paint fades. Unless the cars 3 years old, if there is two flat panels leading onto one anther (for example a wing leading onto a door) then the new paint will look a different colour to the old paint. To get rid of this colour difference you need to blend the colour into the adjacent panel. Look for colour difference over flat panels (doors/bonnets/quarters).
Masking lines - This is poor workmanship 101. This is where the tape holding the covering panel materials has been sprayed up to. This will be a harsh lip, look out for these on the side of panels aka top of wings, bumpers, bonnets boot lids and inside door shuts.
DA/Filler marks - Anther bad bodywork trate is when filler is applied to a panel and not prepared properly. A DA is a tool used to sand down panels and filler. This is basically and orbital sander. Look and see if you can see what appears to be scratches under the paint. This is where a bodyshop has sanded filler back with 600 pad and not gone to a finer one. This will usually indicate a large amount of filler in that panel.
Polish/cut Marks - Anther good one is to have a look under the bonnet and in the shuts as well as on the seals. When you flat a panel back, you need to use a cutting compound mixed with water. When this hits the buffer, it tends to thrown cutting compound all over the place. When a cars panel has been cut back, a bodyshop will usually wash off the excess. However on a cheap job they generally will not do this. If there appears to be white residue on grill mesh, or in a bit of panel gap, chances are that this panel has been touched.
Areas of common repair
Rear Quarters - It is highly unlikely unless in extream damaged cases for a rear quarter to be replaced complete. It is much more likely for the panel to be repaired. Always take a magnet with you when looking at a car, as this will help you find filler/fibreglass. Most command damage, around the wheel wheel arch and onto the rear bumper (so look out for mid bumper blends) as well as bellow the rear window. Also remember if the car is a 5 door look out for those blends onto the rear doors
Doors - Usually this is due to car park dents, look around the mid parts of the doors, as strangely this is where a large amount of repairs are conducted.
Bumpers - Most of the time these are scuffs look on the bump strips for scratch marks under the paint, as well as panels not lining up right around the bumper
Bonnets - 60% when a bonnet is resprayed its due to dents from hitting or dropping something on the car. Look for panels that are not straight as well as the bonnet panel gaps on each side not lining up correctly. As this will point to the bonnet being removed.
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Posted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 6:10 am |
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Joined: Feb 08, 2010
Posts: 1519
Trade Rating: +2
Location: Airdrie, Scotland
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Good posting. Very interesting. Thanks
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Posted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 9:42 am |
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Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Posts: 1810
Trade Rating: +2
Location: devon
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good post mate  whereabouts in newton are you? got a project coming along i may need bumpers/wings etc painted for soon
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Posted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 9:55 am |
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Joined: Feb 13, 2010
Posts: 275
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Devon
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Thanks matey, glad it was useful
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Posted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 9:58 am |
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Joined: Feb 13, 2010
Posts: 275
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Devon
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| rttam wrote: |
| good post mate whereabouts in newton are you? got a project coming along i may need bumpers/wings etc painted for soon |
Hey buddy,
In Newton Abbot our address is:
Shell Shocked Autobodies LTD
14 Silverhills Buildings
Decoy Industrial Estate
Newton Abbot
TQ12 5LZ
Would welcome a visit any time my friend, especially from a fellow 180 owner  we got long weekday opening hours of 8:30 to 6:00. Give me a shout via phone or email if you require any assistance.
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Posted: Thu Jul 08, 2010 4:21 am |
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Joined: Feb 08, 2010
Posts: 6055
Trade Rating: +53
Location: Salisbury / New Forest
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I can add that on my old 1.1 I never noticed that at some point it must have had a rear quarter replaced.
When the boot is open look at the seam, there should be a Peugeot lion emblem on there.
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Posted: Tue Jul 27, 2010 9:55 am |
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Joined: Feb 13, 2010
Posts: 275
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Devon
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| CD-206GTi wrote: |
I can add that on my old 1.1 I never noticed that at some point it must have had a rear quarter replaced.
When the boot is open look at the seam, there should be a Peugeot lion emblem on there. |
Nearly 99% of all rear quarters will have that symbol on there even if they have been replaced. Patterned parts are unlikely to cover things like rear quarter panels. Reason for this is that there would be simely no reason for them to go to the expense of remanufactured this panel as so little are ever need.
For replacement panels, the area you want to be looking is at panel gaps, do they look right? Also hard edge masking in doors and boot shuts.
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Posted: Tue Jul 27, 2010 10:06 am |
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Joined: Feb 09, 2010
Posts: 2207
Trade Rating: +10
Location: exhall, bedworth, coventry
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good guide this glad there's more than one of us to answer painting questions -SDC-
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Posted: Tue Jul 27, 2010 10:15 am |
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Joined: Feb 18, 2010
Posts: 4013
Trade Rating: +25
Location: Worcester
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Q: what do I do about lacquer coming off one of my panels?
It's shedding like a skin tbh. Is it a case of respraying the lacquer?
Cheers 
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Posted: Tue Jul 27, 2010 10:21 am |
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Joined: Feb 08, 2010
Posts: 6055
Trade Rating: +53
Location: Salisbury / New Forest
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| Antix wrote: |
Q: what do I do about lacquer coming off one of my panels?
It's shedding like a skin tbh. Is it a case of respraying the lacquer?
Cheers |
Yes,
Recently had 2 cars with this issue.
One a Mazda, had a full respray down one side (paint & clear coat)
The other my dad's TT is being collected this evening for a respray (again both paint & lacquer)
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Posted: Tue Jul 27, 2010 10:32 am |
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Joined: Feb 09, 2010
Posts: 2207
Trade Rating: +10
Location: exhall, bedworth, coventry
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| Antix wrote: |
Q: what do I do about lacquer coming off one of my panels?
It's shedding like a skin tbh. Is it a case of respraying the lacquer?
Cheers |
No. Panel needs flatting until no kore lacquer peels then basecoat applied to cover colour difference and hide lacquer edge then relacquer
Matt
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Posted: Tue Jul 27, 2010 11:25 am |
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Joined: Feb 18, 2010
Posts: 4013
Trade Rating: +25
Location: Worcester
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| Teebag wrote: |
| Antix wrote: |
Q: what do I do about lacquer coming off one of my panels?
It's shedding like a skin tbh. Is it a case of respraying the lacquer?
Cheers |
No. Panel needs flatting until no kore lacquer peels then basecoat applied to cover colour difference and hide lacquer edge then relacquer
Matt |
Okay - so reading your guide ..
~I need to sand the area affected until there is no more lacquer peeling.
Then spray paint to match the car on the area just sanded, then lacquer the area?
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Posted: Tue Jul 27, 2010 3:48 pm |
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Joined: Feb 09, 2010
Posts: 2207
Trade Rating: +10
Location: exhall, bedworth, coventry
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thats it exactly antix. i'll pm you my number if you need any more help give me a text or something 
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