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V9977

Posted: Tue May 03, 2011 11:12 am

Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Posts: 2949
Trade Rating: +6
Location: Athens, Greece

Seen a lot of fried ECU/BSi on here lately.

Due to inductive back-emf resulting from car batteries (high capacitance/low impedance) at the instant of connection,
damage can occur to these sensitive modules.
Both the 'good' car and the one which is flat are at some risk depending on the state of the batteries and luck.
Faults can also become apparent months after the spike has occured due to the microscopic
geometries of the insides of semiconductors, or 'chips'.

It is therefore NOT recomended to use jump-leads unless you absolutely have to.

If you want to minimise the chances of this type of damage, follow this procedure (at your own risk),
always bearing in-mind that car batteries can cause serious physical injury or damage to you or your vehicle
if not treated with utmost respect.

1) Place the good car appropriately so that enough cable length is available without stretching it.
Make sure car bodies are not touching.

2) Disconnect both batteries by undoing the quick-release plus-pole (+).

3) Making absolutely sure to connect red lead to plus (+) and black lead to minus (-) of each battery,
connect them as you would normaly but leave them to settle for 5 to 10 minutes. Do not short the leads at any time.

4) Now connect the 'good car' quick-release plus pole (+) leaving the 'flat car' still disconnected from the two batteries which are still paralleled. Start the engine of the good car and let it charge them for 10 to 15 minutes.

5) Switch-off engine, disconnect and remove jump leads and fix all relevant plus-pole (+) connections on both cars.

6) Attempt to start the 'flat car' and then drive or leave idling for at least 15-20 minutes.

7) Solve the problem which caused the battery to go flat in the first place to avoid all this hassle every time.

Multiplexed cars will need to be properly shut-down or soft-booted even if battery appears completely 'dead'. <link>

Yep, it takes ages but I hope this helps.


	1.4i, 2001, 3-door, China Blue Repair safely - Drive safely

Antknee

Posted: Tue May 03, 2011 11:41 am

Joined: Sep 12, 2010
Posts: 1912
Trade Rating: +4
Location: Manchester

Also probably wise to note if you get it wrong it can result in a hefty bill from peugeot to fix the ecu

V9977

Posted: Tue May 03, 2011 11:45 am

Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Posts: 2949
Trade Rating: +6
Location: Athens, Greece

Antknee wrote:

Also probably wise to note if you get it wrong it can result in a hefty bill from peugeot to fix the ecu

Agreed, but holds tru for any type of jump-start procedure.


	1.4i, 2001, 3-door, China Blue Repair safely - Drive safely

panason1c

Posted: Tue May 03, 2011 12:56 pm

Joined: Sep 05, 2010
Posts: 461
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Somerset

Turning on the headlights first will 'absorb' any spike when connecting a battery in parallel prior to jump starting a vehicle.


	1.4 hdi, 206, Year..2003, 100,000 miles Mercedes, ML270CDI, 2002, 200,000 miles BMW K1200RS

Ash

Posted: Tue May 03, 2011 1:05 pm

Joined: Mar 27, 2010
Posts: 3017
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Running from Ant and Lee and Adam...........

And make sure all fuses are intact..


	2005 206 1.4 Auto S in Sahara Yellow

V9977

Posted: Tue May 03, 2011 1:24 pm

Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Posts: 2949
Trade Rating: +6
Location: Athens, Greece

panason1c wrote:

Turning on the headlights first will 'absorb' any spike when connecting a battery in parallel prior to jump starting a vehicle.

No, it won't.

Batteries can supply many hundreds of Amps for brief instants which can
cause spikes of tens of thousants of Volts. A simple resistor (lamps) accross them will do nothing to protect either car.

Otherwise all of the above would be a complete waste of time and energy.


	1.4i, 2001, 3-door, China Blue Repair safely - Drive safely

Coolspot

Posted: Tue May 03, 2011 1:46 pm

Joined: Jun 29, 2010
Posts: 244
Trade Rating: +2
Location: East Sussex

I have a jumpstart cable that connects through the lighter sockets of both card.

You connect one to the other then check the connection via a switch, start the good car and swap the switch to charge and leave for 10-15 mins, then start the screwed car.
I Love it and used it a few times to help peopleand wehn raining we didn't have to leave the cars lol Smile

What the chances of this screwing the battery?


	206 3dr 1.4 GLX modified slightly, Lowered 35mm on full Gmax kit, 17" AEZ xylo alloys 205/45/17, 3.5" Savage back box,

V9977

Posted: Tue May 03, 2011 1:52 pm

Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Posts: 2949
Trade Rating: +6
Location: Athens, Greece

It is certainly better than having both cars running at the same time and conected. I also suspect other measures have been taken with this tool to avoid damage generaly.


	1.4i, 2001, 3-door, China Blue Repair safely - Drive safely

MrBSI

Posted: Tue May 03, 2011 4:54 pm

Joined: Nov 27, 2010
Posts: 11520
Trade Rating: +10
Location: What's it to you? ? ?

Sorry but there is no way I would follow any advice you give for jump starting a car

Seabook

Posted: Tue May 03, 2011 5:03 pm

Joined: Feb 08, 2010
Posts: 10151
Trade Rating: +12

step 2 is wrong already..... this is what you should do....


	Car Sold....

Lee

Posted: Tue May 03, 2011 5:05 pm

Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Posts: 13077
Trade Rating: +65
Location: England

The step before that is wrong as well, as you should always disconnect the earth first, not the positive

V9977

Posted: Tue May 03, 2011 6:13 pm

Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Posts: 2949
Trade Rating: +6
Location: Athens, Greece

Lee wrote:

The step before that is wrong as well, as you should always disconnect the earth first, not the positive

Sure, that's what Haynes says for decades but why do you think the quick release is on the positive?

Negative-first is a throwback from the days before quick-release posts where standard, so that people
with spanners would not inadvertadly touch the chassis while trying to undo the positive, causing a short.
It also serves as a quick means of disconnecting the battery incase of an emergency (eg crash).

There is no electrical difference and in the case of the 206 where this type of pole connector is standard,
it is in-fact safer to dissconect the battery from there first before you go anywhere near it with tools.

Seabook wrote:

step 2 is wrong already.....

this is what you should do....

Same thing exactly: The negative earth straps go straight to the chassis anyway so no electrical difference there.
However, the chassis is not designed to be connected to at any old place.
You would have to go to the earthing point itself or the gearbox or simmilar, running the risk of the crocodile clip
shaking loose, esp. when the engine is started.

MrBSI wrote:

Sorry but there is no way I would follow any advice you give for jump starting a car Rolling Eyes

No problem. If you are in any way hesitant this one's not for you.
Same goes for anyone else.
If you follow the steps correctly and sensibly it is actually safer than most other ways both for you and the cars.


	1.4i, 2001, 3-door, China Blue Repair safely - Drive safely

panason1c

Posted: Wed May 04, 2011 12:49 am

Joined: Sep 05, 2010
Posts: 461
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Somerset

V9977 wrote:

panason1c wrote:

Turning on the headlights first will 'absorb' any spike when connecting a battery in parallel prior to jump starting a vehicle.

V9977, WRONG!............Check out the article below.

Start the engine in the vehicle with the good battery. Let it idle for a few moments before turning on the headlights in the vehicle with the dead battery. Turning on the lights will absorb any voltage spikes that can cause damage to a vehicle's computer. Then you can start the engine of the car with the dead battery. Once the engine is started, carefully remove the cables in reverse order, not allowing the clamps to touch.

Article Source: EzineArticles.com/3304044

ezinearticles.com/?Car...id=3304044


	1.4 hdi, 206, Year..2003, 100,000 miles Mercedes, ML270CDI, 2002, 200,000 miles BMW K1200RS

V9977

Posted: Wed May 04, 2011 4:07 am

Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Posts: 2949
Trade Rating: +6
Location: Athens, Greece

panason1c wrote:

V9977 wrote:

panason1c wrote:

Turning on the headlights first will 'absorb' any spike when connecting a battery in parallel prior to jump starting a vehicle.

Sorry, that is simply another total mis-information found in the web.
Switching-on headlamps will NOT magicaly absorb any spikes no matter where it says it.

Just because it's in some article it doesn't mean its true.
Obviously its up to you to decide if what you read (including this thread) is fact or fairy-tale, and do as you see best.


	1.4i, 2001, 3-door, China Blue Repair safely - Drive safely

panason1c

Posted: Wed May 04, 2011 4:27 am

Joined: Sep 05, 2010
Posts: 461
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Somerset

V9977 wrote:

panason1c wrote:

V9977 wrote:

panason1c wrote:

Turning on the headlights first will 'absorb' any spike when connecting a battery in parallel prior to jump starting a vehicle.

Common sense, added to logic tells me that switching on lights (plus heater blower motor, heated rear screen, etc) will absorb any voltage 'spike' rather than without the ancilliaries switched on and the full force of the spike surging thru the engine management electronics/ecu causing them to fry.

I therefore prefer to believe the contents of the article rather than your opinion.


	1.4 hdi, 206, Year..2003, 100,000 miles Mercedes, ML270CDI, 2002, 200,000 miles BMW K1200RS

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