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Forums › The Car › 206 Problems › Wishbone removal |
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Posted: Sat Aug 06, 2011 7:54 am |
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Joined: Jul 03, 2011 Posts: 142
Trade Rating: +1
Location: UK
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Ok, looked at the How to on wishbones, and its all pretty straight forward, apart from one thing.........
The centre bolt on the wishbone wont go past the strut/arm to the wheel, hence, I cant get the bugger out.
Has anybody had this out, know how to or know a way?
I dont fancy paying a garage to do the job as I know I can do it, apart from this!
Will removing the ball joint and first bolt allow the centre bolt to twist enough to come out?
GTI 16v, year 2000, 2.0l
, offside
Cheers
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Posted: Sat Aug 06, 2011 9:11 am |
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Joined: Jul 28, 2011 Posts: 64
Trade Rating: +1
Location: essex
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in a word yes.
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Posted: Sat Aug 06, 2011 9:36 am |
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Joined: Feb 08, 2010 Posts: 25
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Teesside
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try jacking the wishbone up slightly .... i seem to recall this cleared abit of space to get the bolt out. had to use a pinch bar to get the hub off the wishbone aswell.
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| Gti 180, 04, Janspeed cat-back system, viper induction. | |
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Posted: Sat Aug 06, 2011 9:58 am |
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Joined: Feb 08, 2010 Posts: 7045
Trade Rating: +5
Location: In the garage
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Pulling the hub off the wishbone is the first job you do. Have some pictures, in order of the work done.
I did a 'How to' once but the website disappeared.
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| 2001 GTi 138, Bilstein Sprint dampers, H&R springs, 21mm Peugeot Sport torsion bars, 22mm rear ARB, Peugeot Sport Group A wishbones, 283mm discs, Goodridge stainless hoses, Maniflow 304 grade 4-2-1 2.5" manifold and system, 200 cell cat, Richard Longman head, 45mm Jenvey throttle bodies, 9.5mm TB spacers, 90mm air horns, Jenvey throttle linkage, Jenvey fuel rail, Aeromotive and Goodridge fuel fittings and braided hose, ITG sausage filter, Radtec custom radiator, Piper Ultimate Road cams, Piper vernier pulleys, Omex 600 ECU. Saxo electric PAS pump, Vibra Technics engine mounts. Samco coolant hoses, TTV steel flywheel, 4.76 final drive ratio, 307 CC 180 ratios. 2019 BMW 530i. 2017 Mercedes C300 convertible. | |
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Posted: Sat Aug 06, 2011 1:50 pm |
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Joined: Jul 03, 2011 Posts: 142
Trade Rating: +1
Location: UK
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brilliant, thanks, I'll have another go tomorrow!
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Posted: Sat Aug 06, 2011 2:06 pm |
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Joined: Mar 03, 2010 Posts: 201
Trade Rating: +1
Location: doncaster south yorkshire
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no need to remove the shocker just to do the lower arms, secret is to remove centre hub nut then when the cv joint is removed from the hub (disc side ) you can lift the driveshaft high enough to remove the front bolt for the arm
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Posted: Sat Jan 31, 2015 4:26 pm |
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Joined: Oct 13, 2012 Posts: 3
Trade Rating: 0
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Where can I get these wishbones ? The bushes look beefed up and stronger than the bushes you get on most wishbones for the 206. I am guessing these are old Peugeot dealer parts. If anyone knows what manufacturer does these please let me know
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Posted: Sat Jan 31, 2015 7:43 pm |
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Joined: Aug 04, 2011 Posts: 1343
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Swindon
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Or do what some do and take an angle grinder to the wishbone and cut it through between the bolt and lower swivel joint. Leave a very thin strip and a few hits with a hammer will bend and break it on that thin strip. This releases all the tension in the arm that the bushes etc. create and it all comes out much more easily.
The reason not to cut all the way through with the grinder is that the arm can move with the final cut and pinch the grinding disc.
Once you have done this a few times it all gets much easier. the grinding isn't essential but can stop some swearing.
Regards levering down the arm, if you use a 6ft length of bar (I use a scaffold pole) then the weight of the wheel placed on the end of the bar is enough and you don't need an assistant.
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| Morris 1000, Austin 1100, Escort Mk2, Fiat Mirafiori, Alfa 33, Alfa GT Junior, Alfasud, Alfetta GTV (2x), Alfa 164 3.0 V6, Alfa 164 2.0, Alfa 75 V6, Alfa 156 2.4 (diesel remapped 200bhp), Alfa 147 GTA (3.6 295bhp), Alfa 159 (diesel remapped 245bhp 300ft.lbs @ 2500rpm)
Why isn't my daughter an Alfaholic? | |
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Posted: Sat Jan 31, 2015 8:08 pm |
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Joined: Aug 04, 2011 Posts: 1343
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Swindon
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Also note that while it is hard to see in the pictures there should be a heat shield on the lower swivel. Lots of cars loose these due to rust but if you have lost yours get new and replace them. The heat from the brakes can cause the lower swivel to fail early.
When re-assembling be very careful. Due to the twisting that the bushes put into the wishbone it can be quite hard to line everything up then, while levering the arm to do that, it is quite easy to pinch and cut the drive shaft boot with the lower swivel pin. If you damage the CV boot the easiest fix is a "stretch boot."
Someone here will tell you the best order to fit the lower swivel and two pivot bush bolts. I haven't done one for a while and my memory isn't what it was. If you do it in the wrong order it is almost impossible and isn't exactly easy done in the right order. If you have wishbones with stiff bushes (some fit Powerflex or similar) it can be a real bugger.
You may also need to find an old flat blade screw driver (short one) and tap it into the gap to slightly spread the bottom swivel lug. Even with the pinch bolt removed these can hold quite tight.
Unless you are going to fit Polybush then genuine Peugeot will probably last the longest of any other supplier. The only other manufacture that I would recommend for these arms is Lemforder £81.60 on EuroCarParts.
Please do NOT buy cheap arms from Fleabay or similar. They will last less than a year and you will be doing the job again.
Finally, as posted by Andy180+ above, you do not need to remove the strut from the hub.
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| Morris 1000, Austin 1100, Escort Mk2, Fiat Mirafiori, Alfa 33, Alfa GT Junior, Alfasud, Alfetta GTV (2x), Alfa 164 3.0 V6, Alfa 164 2.0, Alfa 75 V6, Alfa 156 2.4 (diesel remapped 200bhp), Alfa 147 GTA (3.6 295bhp), Alfa 159 (diesel remapped 245bhp 300ft.lbs @ 2500rpm)
Why isn't my daughter an Alfaholic? | |
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