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Forums › The Car › 206 Problems › Elec. windows no worky.


 
 

Elec. windows no worky.
Forum Index206 Problems
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Necro
PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2012 2:53 pm Up
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Ok, cheers. I'll give it a go tomorrow and report back Smile
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Necro
PostPosted: Tue May 29, 2012 12:33 pm Up
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f*****g hell, that was hard work!
But eventually worked so the window is up and new switch on the way.
Thanks for the help ppls.

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iainlovatt
PostPosted: Tue May 29, 2012 1:15 pm Up
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So it was a faulty switch then?
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Necro
PostPosted: Tue May 29, 2012 3:21 pm Up
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Will see once I get the new switch. Motor defo works though.
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Necro
PostPosted: Wed May 30, 2012 11:13 am Up
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Got the new switch today and still nothing.
Any other ideas?

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mtempsch
PostPosted: Wed May 30, 2012 11:27 am Up
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Necro wrote:
Got the new switch today and still nothing.
Any other ideas?

Did you test the motor out in the door or via the plug on the switch?

If in the door, the wiring between switch and motor is a suspect ( +feeds, see below). Repeat test via the plug.

If you test OK via the switch plug, that really only leaves the feed wires - check for +12V and proper ground connection on the 2 applicable wires in the plug...

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Necro
PostPosted: Wed May 30, 2012 11:36 am Up
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I tested the motor in the door. Tried it via the switch and got nothing (didn't have a clue where I was supposed to put the wires anyways tbh).
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mtempsch
PostPosted: Wed May 30, 2012 12:05 pm Up
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Necro wrote:
I tested the motor in the door. Tried it via the switch and got nothing (didn't have a clue where I was supposed to put the wires anyways tbh).

OK, so it's either the wires between switch and motor or the supply feeds to the switch.

With a multimeter on 'Voltage' you can check for +12V on the brown wire on the plug on the switch (position 3A)
With the multimeter on 'Resistance' you can check for a low Ohm connection between the ground feed on pin 1A (yellow/green).

With the multimeter on 'Resistance' you can also check for a low Ohm connection between the violet and grey wires in terminals 3B & 4A (wire codes 609 and 608) to the motor's terminals in the door.

A final fault could be a high resistance fault on in the feed; this means that it will test fine with a meter and read a nice 12V when no/minimal current is flowing - but as you press the button and start to sending current to the motor, the high resistance causes the voltage to be dropped upstream instead of across the motor...
Typically due to a partially blown fuse or an otherwise poor connection.

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Necro
PostPosted: Wed May 30, 2012 12:20 pm Up
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Don't have a multimeter and don't have the knowledge to fix a wiring problem.
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mtempsch
PostPosted: Wed May 30, 2012 1:15 pm Up
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Necro wrote:
Don't have a multimeter and don't have the knowledge to fix a wiring problem.

I'd be happy to help out, but I'm not exactly local... Sad

Friend or relative w/ knowledge of the subject and a meter?
If not then I guess it's garage/shop time...

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Necro
PostPosted: Wed May 30, 2012 2:08 pm Up
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My dad might be of help but hes out the country til next week and I can't afford to put the car in the shop Sad
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mtempsch
PostPosted: Wed May 30, 2012 2:31 pm Up
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Just recalled from your original post that the problem exists for both windows, right?

That would be a strong indicator for a problem with the feed, not the wiring 'tween switch and door. And it was occasionally working which looks like a poor connection somewhere.

Something that you can do w/o a meter: If you haven't already, change the involved fuses for new ones - a fuse can be bad/iffy while still look OK on visual inspection...

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Necro
PostPosted: Wed Jun 13, 2012 12:45 pm Up
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Ok, so the windows still don't work at all.
Just to recall, I've replaced the switch, tested the motor, changed the fuses, checked the relays and just today checked the current thru the wiring with a multi meter and there's current going to the switch and thru the wiring to the motor.

Any other ideas what it can be?

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