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 Posted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 11:06 am |
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Joined: Apr 13, 2010
Posts: 4
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Burton-on-Trent
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My 206 has started to make a loud screeching noise after I've driven for a while (the sound seems to stop when I press the brake lightly or turn the wheel slightly).
It sounds like its coming from the front O/S wheel and that wheel gets a lot hotter than the other side (I sprayed a little bit of water on it and it instantly turned to steam so its getting very hot).
Any ideas what might be wrong? could it be a seizing caliper and is it an easy fix?
Thanks
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Posted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 11:06 am |
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Joined: Apr 13, 2010
Posts: 4
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Burton-on-Trent
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its a 2001 1.4 LX, with no ABS
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Posted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 11:18 am |
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Joined: Mar 04, 2010
Posts: 84
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Leicester
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If its the capiler. Would be easier to just fit a replacement. either new if your felling rich or just one off a breaker. It could just be a warped disc. How old are the discs and pads?
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| I\'m Steve got a 2003 verve. | |
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Posted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 11:26 am |
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Joined: Apr 13, 2010
Posts: 4
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Burton-on-Trent
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Pads were changed a few months ago. No idea about the discs I've had it for about 2.5 years. Would there be any way to test if its a warped disc?
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Posted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 11:36 am |
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Joined: Mar 04, 2010
Posts: 84
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Leicester
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Reley should change the disc when you change the pads. It just jack the wheel up. The very un technical way is just spin the wheel and lission if it grips at any point and if it's the same point on the wheel every spin. Discs are only £40 ish
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| I\'m Steve got a 2003 verve. | |
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Posted: Mon Jun 18, 2012 4:44 pm |
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Joined: Aug 04, 2011
Posts: 1343
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Swindon
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Changing discs with every set of pads is over kill. Most discs will last at least 3x pad changes and more. If this was a very high performance car I might agree but even then I would measure thickness and look at surface condition but this it is a 1.4 206 a low performance car. I am not stating the discs don't need changing but know why you are changing them not just doing it by routine though they are cheap at £20 per pair or less.
Also very few discs warp but they do get pad imprints either problem gives the symptom of brake judder and the OP hasn't make any comment about that. For a slightly technical reference to warped discs and brake problem myth busting read here;-
www.stoptech.com/techn...ther-myths
FWIW my suggestion is that when the new pads were fitted the pistons were pushed back into the calliper without first cleaning the piston. Having done that a previously exposed and dirty or even rusty part of the piston has now caused the piston to be a tight fit in the calliper and the partially seized piston is making the brake drag. The solution is either remove the piston and clean it using brake cleaner, fit a calliper repair kit (new piston, new pressure and dust seal) or replacement calliper. NOTE: if the dust seal on the piston is split it is likely that the piston will be rusty and beyond repair.
You will need to bleed the brakes after the repair.
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| Morris 1000, Austin 1100, Escort Mk2, Fiat Mirafiori, Alfa 33, Alfa GT Junior, Alfasud, Alfetta GTV (2x), Alfa 164 3.0 V6, Alfa 164 2.0, Alfa 75 V6, Alfa 156 2.4 (diesel remapped 200bhp), Alfa 147 GTA (3.6 295bhp), Alfa 159 (diesel remapped 245bhp 300ft.lbs @ 2500rpm)
Why isn't my daughter an Alfaholic? | |
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Posted: Mon Jun 18, 2012 4:56 pm |
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Joined: Feb 08, 2010
Posts: 10151
Trade Rating: +12
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| kandlbarrett wrote: |
Changing discs with every set of pads is over kill. Most discs will last at least 3x pad changes and more. If this was a very high performance car I might agree but even then I would measure thickness and look at surface condition but this it is a 1.4 206 a low performance car. I am not stating the discs don't need changing but know why you are changing them not just doing it by routine though they are cheap at £20 per pair or less.
Also very few discs warp but they do get pad imprints either problem gives the symptom of brake judder and the OP hasn't make any comment about that. For a slightly technical reference to warped discs and brake problem myth busting read here;-
www.stoptech.com/techn...ther-myths
FWIW my suggestion is that when the new pads were fitted the pistons were pushed back into the calliper without first cleaning the piston. Having done that a previously exposed and dirty or even rusty part of the piston has now caused the piston to be a tight fit in the calliper and the partially seized piston is making the brake drag. The solution is either remove the piston and clean it using brake cleaner, fit a calliper repair kit (new piston, new pressure and dust seal) or replacement calliper. NOTE: if the dust seal on the piston is split it is likely that the piston will be rusty and beyond repair.
You will need to bleed the brakes after the repair. |
 
rarely see such a quality reply on info these day
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