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Forums › The Car › 206 Problems › Suspension Problem - Need Advice Please |
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 Posted: Sun Jan 13, 2013 7:15 am |
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Joined: Oct 25, 2012
Posts: 71
Trade Rating: 0
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What you explained there I get that now, and I agree with you its not nice at all, I thought this was the springs fault for being nasty on bumps. I don't think seller will accept these dampers back, that's my only problem, its been over a month now. it felt like the old shocks were twice as hard to push than my new shocks, which pretty much just slid in. Maybe I should just email kyb directly
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Posted: Sun Jan 13, 2013 9:04 am |
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Joined: Aug 04, 2011
Posts: 1343
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Swindon
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The theory:-
Once a spring starts to bounce it will do so for quite a while.
The damper should control the spring in such a way that it compresses when you hit a bump, rebound then settles.
Your springs and dampers should be tuned to each other and the weight of the vehicle.
The body roll you describe should be controlled by the spring and anit-roll bar with a small amount of control also added by the damper.
If your springs are excessively stiff they will bounce more than they should because the damper won't be able to control them.
If your springs are soft the shock absorbing is done by the damper. One of the problems here is that over repeated bumps the car can bottom because the spring is so weak it doesn't push back hard enough to overcome the resistance of the damper and raise the car back up before you hot the next bump.
There are lots of other effects but these are the principle ones.
Getting a refund:-
With regards the new dampers they are either defective from new or have failed early. Either way you did not buy them from KYB but from a supplier. Under the, "sale of goods act" your complaint is with the supplier. Things get a little complicated because the retailer will probably fall back on the KYB manufacturers warrant. Things get a little grey here because they are (probably) only bound to give a replacement but my knowledge gets sketchy here.
If they are as easy to compress and pull out as you describe they are obviously defective. When you take them back add that you have lost faith in the manufacturer and would like an alternative or refund to enable you to buy an alternative but you do not want KYB again
Any good supplier will treat this as a reasonable request and do as you have asked.
What ever you decide - good luck.
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| Morris 1000, Austin 1100, Escort Mk2, Fiat Mirafiori, Alfa 33, Alfa GT Junior, Alfasud, Alfetta GTV (2x), Alfa 164 3.0 V6, Alfa 164 2.0, Alfa 75 V6, Alfa 156 2.4 (diesel remapped 200bhp), Alfa 147 GTA (3.6 295bhp), Alfa 159 (diesel remapped 245bhp 300ft.lbs @ 2500rpm)
Why isn't my daughter an Alfaholic? | |
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Posted: Sun Jan 13, 2013 5:41 pm |
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Joined: Oct 25, 2012
Posts: 71
Trade Rating: 0
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well I think we know what the problem is now, I do remember the garge mentioning to me that these were quite soft / easy to pull/push when they first installed them, but this ment nothing to me. what I will do probably is wait and buy some good dampers/springs. I would really like to thank you Kandlebarrett for helping me getting to the bottom of this. I'll be ordering new dampers and springs next week, so I will update to let you know how my car is. I'll most probably go for bilstein dampers and eibach springs. I've also noticed my rear wheels rub the inside of the arch now on some corners, so I believe that also means the rear dampers were also very soft, it never use to do that with my old dampers, but i'll replace the rear another time.
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Posted: Mon Jan 14, 2013 8:29 am |
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Joined: Aug 04, 2011
Posts: 1343
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Swindon
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Achillez:- Good luck with the front.
Ref the rear; the dampers don't control ride height the torsion bars do. Reasons for rear wheels hitting the wheel arches are probably:-
1) rear stub axles bearings worn.
2) very badly adjusted wheel bearings.
3) Car excessively lowered (not uncommon.)
To check the stub axles and wheel bearings you need to jack the car up so the rear wheels are off the ground and with hands at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock push / pull and twist the wheel then do the same at 6 o'clock and 12 o'clock. There should not be any play (well a very tiny bit is permissible but only a tiny bit.) Play will either be worn stub axle bearings or incorrectly adjusted wheel bearings. If you look closely you should be able to see where the movenment is.
If it is not bearings worn or badly adjusted then it is torsion bars that have been set incorrectly. I am not sure what the rear ride height should be but can have a look for you tonight or maybe another knowledgeable user will advise before then.
It could be weak torsion bars but I am not aware of any cars that have suffered that though I readily admit I am not an expert on rear suspension for these cars. I know how it works, and have had a good look under one but have never had it apart.
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| Morris 1000, Austin 1100, Escort Mk2, Fiat Mirafiori, Alfa 33, Alfa GT Junior, Alfasud, Alfetta GTV (2x), Alfa 164 3.0 V6, Alfa 164 2.0, Alfa 75 V6, Alfa 156 2.4 (diesel remapped 200bhp), Alfa 147 GTA (3.6 295bhp), Alfa 159 (diesel remapped 245bhp 300ft.lbs @ 2500rpm)
Why isn't my daughter an Alfaholic? | |
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Posted: Sat Feb 16, 2013 7:15 pm |
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Joined: Oct 25, 2012
Posts: 71
Trade Rating: 0
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Hello, I didn't want to make a new topic so I thought I'd resurrect this topic.
Changed front shocks and replaced standard springs with eibach, I've got to say its so much better, I'd still would of liked it a bit more stiff for the corners but this doesn't bother me much, I'm quite happy with the car.
Anyway the main reason I did resurrect this topic was because I have a question, when the front shocks was done I took it for a spin and noticed a lot of clunks when turning the steering wheel, took it back to the garage, jacked the car up to find strut bearing wasn't slot in its correct position, so the mechanic put it back into its correct position, thankfully he didn't have to remove the whole suspension to do this. Anyway I took it back home, could still hear little light clunks.
I did take it back the next morning and the mechanic did tell me it would go after a week, well its been 2 weeks and its still there, I don't want to take it back because I don't want to p**s the mechanic off, I'd also like to confirm it doesn't effect the cars handling, not that I've noticed yet anyway but its horrible to hear these clunks all the time, I have had a look myself and everything looks all good. Also the Bearings were brand new.
Any suggestions anyone? I don't mind driving the car like this but if this can damage my sudspension I'd like it fixed
Sorry for the long post
Thanks
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Posted: Sun Feb 17, 2013 4:00 am |
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Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Posts: 2719
Trade Rating: +6
Location: UK
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It's either the drop links or bottom arms, you could rule top bearings out if there new.
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Posted: Sun Feb 17, 2013 5:55 am |
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Joined: Oct 25, 2012
Posts: 71
Trade Rating: 0
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I'll double check them, but both arms and drop links were changed about 3-4 months ago.
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