|
Author
|
Message |
|
|
 Posted: Sun Jan 13, 2013 5:02 pm |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Apr 03, 2010
Posts: 455
Trade Rating: +8
Location: Ashford, Kent
|
 |
Again, been a while since my last update, but I did manage to find a few quid for the lovely Seat cupra splitter and fit while the site was down.
I didn't find much in the way of fitting guides, so I took a few photos to help those doing this job at a later date. Bottom line.. take your time, and it is easy. Bumper is not yet back on because I am awaiting oil cooler, so photo of the badboy back on the 206 will have to wait!
Clamp the splitter out of the box onto the bumper with a few mini clamps
Drill and rivet in place before removing clamps.. obviously!
Make sure at all times, the rivet pulls both surfaces together
Cut and file the overhang from the corners, and she's all done
| |  |
|
|
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Sun Jan 13, 2013 5:12 pm |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Apr 03, 2010
Posts: 455
Trade Rating: +8
Location: Ashford, Kent
|
|
Second update - in an attempt to find the perfect induction solution... I have developed the following with the aid of a couple of knowledgable friends, and having learnt about the helmholtz theorm of air induction technology... and if you think a K&N or similar is the way to go.. think again and read this.
This mod is a bit of sod to do, but it free's off a lot of unwanted parts from the 180's standard induction whilst keeping the necessary components. You need a bunch of clamps and various bends of silicone hose. Anyway - here are the images. Quite a squeeze to fit, but well worth it. Noise is lovely and I am sure once on a roller it will show a good result... Watch this space!
Fully assembled, cleaned and ready to fit
Force intake in place at front of bumper
Second air feed direct to atmos - force from under rad
Back in place with freshly painted upper bracket!
Job done!
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Mon Jan 14, 2013 12:03 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Posts: 852
Trade Rating: +1
Location: Tamworth
|
|
Looks great. Dont suppose you could post up more info on what you have done with the intake?
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Mon Jan 14, 2013 1:22 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Posts: 2505
Trade Rating: +19
Location: West mids
|
|
There is still quite alot of bends in that intake Matt, is there any reason why you didn't use the head light as a more direct cold air feed? As back when I had my escort that's the main reason people brought morettes good work tho mate when is it going on track?
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Mon Jan 14, 2013 3:42 pm |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Apr 03, 2010
Posts: 455
Trade Rating: +8
Location: Ashford, Kent
|
|
Jayz - I will when I have a bit more time!!
Spike - in order to use the head light, it would mean even more bends coming from the air chamber. I did think about using the driving light hole in the bumper, but there wasn't much in it. The plastic feed in the picture is part of the original pipework which sits in the inner wing. I just cut it up and re-positioned it.
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Mon Jan 14, 2013 4:59 pm |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Posts: 2505
Trade Rating: +19
Location: West mids
|
|
Just a bit if ribbed flexi hose does the trick from the light hole direct into the filter  but yours look nicer as its all hidden away, nice updates mate.
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Mon Jan 14, 2013 5:31 pm |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Apr 03, 2010
Posts: 455
Trade Rating: +8
Location: Ashford, Kent
|
|
Thanks...
Yes - the ribbed hose does the job, but you loose a flow because of the texture - hence the use of (smoother) silicone hose. Lesser of two at the end of it all... Still - proof will be in the pudding on the track.... Bring on the summer months!!!
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Tue Jan 15, 2013 12:56 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Dec 10, 2010
Posts: 812
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Cape Town
|
|
Nice updates.
Looking forward to see the results of the induction you made.
Good idea with a piece of cloth over the jack 
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Tue Jan 15, 2013 7:34 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Apr 03, 2010
Posts: 455
Trade Rating: +8
Location: Ashford, Kent
|
|
Cheers man - the cloth over the jack is a matter of course.. can't face the prospect of damaging those lovely sills =)
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Sun Jan 27, 2013 2:30 pm |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Apr 03, 2010
Posts: 455
Trade Rating: +8
Location: Ashford, Kent
|
|
Latest update - as I mentioned before - I have got all the stuff needed for the oil cooler installation which include Aeroquip socketless hose stuff. According to friends at Demon Tweeks they are the dogs, so we will see...
Hoping to have use of my mate's garage in next couple of weeks... watch this space. Can't wait to put the front bumper back on...
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Sun Jan 27, 2013 2:51 pm |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Posts: 2505
Trade Rating: +19
Location: West mids
|
|
Is that a thermostatic sandwich plate? Also did you buy a kit or get things separate? As you do know the full kit comes with the hoses.
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Sun Jan 27, 2013 3:01 pm |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Apr 03, 2010
Posts: 455
Trade Rating: +8
Location: Ashford, Kent
|
|
No - thermostatic plates are a bad idea for cars that will generally thrashed around a track. The kits come with pre-assembled hose which isn't always the best idea. I wanted to assemble myself to know that it was done properly. Also want to give this Aeroquip stuff a try which doesn't come as a kit...
Plus most kits come with 2 hoses the same length which is silly as you will have one hose a foot too long, thus messing the oil pressure - only a little I grant you, but if it can be avoided by getting your own hose and making them yourself, then why not?
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Sun Jan 27, 2013 3:11 pm |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Posts: 2505
Trade Rating: +19
Location: West mids
|
|
My bad, I for got yours isn't a Dailey driver lol yer I had some hoses made up by pirotec to do my custom electric PAS conversion and I would recommend them. I have heard quite a few horror story's with these kits like the welds and fittings have broken thus emptied the oil out rather quick when driven round a track.
But then again you get that with every thing these days lol. Just one more thing to just check over during track sessions.
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Sun Jan 27, 2013 3:24 pm |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Apr 03, 2010
Posts: 455
Trade Rating: +8
Location: Ashford, Kent
|
|
Precisely the reason why I always go with Mocal stuff. Always used them - plus Matt Potter at Think Automotive (the distributers) is a legend when it comes to technical stuff... 'specially Peugeots.
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Sat Feb 02, 2013 12:05 pm |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Apr 03, 2010
Posts: 455
Trade Rating: +8
Location: Ashford, Kent
|
|
Another update - my mate was working late last night in his garage so I spent a few hours under cover getting a whole load of stuff done - which included the Janspeed cat back and the Mocal Oil Cooler - there is a fair bit involved in this, but got there in the end...
Heads up to those that fit the cooler where I had, you need to space the fan out because the back of the motor hits otherwise. You also need to join the hose from the old cooler. I had planned to cut and shut with a standard GTi bottom hose given that the 180 uses the metal collar hose where the GTi doesnt, but... little did I know, the 180 has slight larger hoses than the GTi, so not a good idea to do that. So unless you make your own from silicone bends and wotnot, just get a join joiner, couple of clips and tuck it away from the rad when re-fitted. Best solution in my opinion as bends and stuff will require more joiners..
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Membership:
Latest: 
New Today: 0
New Yesterday: 0
Overall: 17129
Online Now [354]:
Visitors: 353
Members: 0
Staff Online Now:
Page Views:
General
Forums Home
Forum FAQ
Search
