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Forums › The Car › 206 Problems › Downpipe Removal


 
 

Downpipe Removal
Forum Index206 Problems
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ReignSupreme
PostPosted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 12:05 pm Up
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Does anyone know any tricks or tips to remove the downpipe and what tools I'll be needing to do so? I own a 2001 1.4 LX. Cheers!
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ARRAN
PostPosted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 12:36 pm Up
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The manifold? Remove the studs the attach it to the engine, carefully as they will probably be corroded and snap, just used lots of WD40 or similar. Then just undo the clamp under the car holdingit to the centre section.
Project Low and Slow.. Going Euro for 2013. Keep your eyes peeled, big plans ahead..

See my project here.
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ReignSupreme
PostPosted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 12:40 pm Up
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No, not the manifold. On my model the cat is part of the downpipe which is a right pain in the a**e. The bolts do look pretty corroded so, I'll be sure to take care of those while undoing them.

 

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ARRAN
PostPosted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 12:42 pm Up
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My cat is part of the manifold, I'm sure its all joined together?
Project Low and Slow.. Going Euro for 2013. Keep your eyes peeled, big plans ahead..

See my project here.
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MrBSI
PostPosted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 12:47 pm Up
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There are 4 nuts underneath that secure the downpipe with cat to the exhaust manifold.

The 4 studs in the manifold are removable / replaceable - BUT its best not to snap them in the first place.

Good idea to replace the nuts & gasket when its reassembled.

Toyota C-HR GR Sport 2.0 Hybrid with JBL & Alcantara packs.
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bikesforme
PostPosted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 1:09 pm Up
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Very easy job to do, i have just changed my complete exhaust system including cat on my 2001 1.4 LX. Just make sure you do not use any exhaust paste on part before cat.
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LeeThr
PostPosted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 1:58 pm Up
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13mm socket and a long extension bar from underneath and it's 4 nuts.
 


gogs_macaulay wrote:
LeeThr wrote:
One Hundred million bazillion gatrillion pink rupee's
Shut it u stupid little f**k, what's the point in posting in all my treads being such a c***? Least I can afford a gti180, and to get the cam belt done!

So apparently everyone knows my financial situation? If I wanted a 180 I would have bought a 180 simples Smile

The garage
2003 - 206 GTi 138 - Moonstone Blue
2003 - 406 Coupé 2.2 HDi SE - Hyperion Blue
2000 - 206 2L HDi D-Turbo ECO - Cherry Red
1999 - 306 GTi-6 - Blue (haven't worked out if it's Nile or China yet)
1987 - 205 GTi 1.9 - Graphite Gray

I must be mad.....
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kandlbarrett
PostPosted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 2:05 pm Up
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In my experience WD40 is not the best penetrating oil for rusted parts.

For penetrating threads on rusted nuts / bolts I would put them in this order:-

Plusgas.
GT85.
WD40.

Many times after removing rusted nuts I find that WD40 hasn't penetrated the thread where the nut is sat at all. I very rarely find that with Plusgas.

Recently I have been using Loctite Freeze & Release. It is amazing stuff and works by first freezing the item down to -43 giving a thermal shock to the part making it easier for the lub to penetrate. Not sure if it really gets down to -43 but it is very cold and really seems to work.

As for reassembly to avoid corrosion I buy brass nuts and also coat the studs with coppaslip or VHT grease.

Morris 1000, Austin 1100, Escort Mk2, Fiat Mirafiori, Alfa 33, Alfa GT Junior, Alfasud, Alfetta GTV (2x), Alfa 164 3.0 V6, Alfa 164 2.0, Alfa 75 V6, Alfa 156 2.4 (diesel remapped 200bhp), Alfa 147 GTA (3.6 295bhp), Alfa 159 (diesel remapped 245bhp 300ft.lbs @ 2500rpm)
Why isn't my daughter an Alfaholic?
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MrBSI
PostPosted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 2:07 pm Up
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Decent manifold nuts can be made out of copper or brass.
Toyota C-HR GR Sport 2.0 Hybrid with JBL & Alcantara packs.
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kandlbarrett
PostPosted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 2:13 pm Up
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You can also by longer brass nuts that completely cover the thread on the studs. No thread exposed so no thread to rust.
Morris 1000, Austin 1100, Escort Mk2, Fiat Mirafiori, Alfa 33, Alfa GT Junior, Alfasud, Alfetta GTV (2x), Alfa 164 3.0 V6, Alfa 164 2.0, Alfa 75 V6, Alfa 156 2.4 (diesel remapped 200bhp), Alfa 147 GTA (3.6 295bhp), Alfa 159 (diesel remapped 245bhp 300ft.lbs @ 2500rpm)
Why isn't my daughter an Alfaholic?
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MrBSI
PostPosted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 2:15 pm Up
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I get the feeling most people on here would either re use the old nuts or wack some nylocs on there Laughing
Toyota C-HR GR Sport 2.0 Hybrid with JBL & Alcantara packs.
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kandlbarrett
PostPosted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 2:36 pm Up
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MrBSI +1 there.

If you ever had an old Alfa with their early (1960s based all alloy 8V in line twin cam) they left the factory with brass (copper?) nuts on the exhaust manifold.

Then they also had cooling fins cast onto the outside of the alloy sump and anti surge baffles cast inside the sump. The cam chain is also tensioned by a jockey wheel that is adjustable externally while the engine idles.

Also cam timing was an amazing design with the drive sprockets bolting to the cam flanges with a single 10mm bolt to set the timing and a central nut holding it all together. The sprocket has 15 holes and the cam flange has 16 holes that the 10mm bolt went through making timing variable but securely locked in 1.25 degree increments.

Alfa knew about engines then. Just a shame about the steel and electrics.

There that is my praise of Alfa over. Back to 206s now though I am on Alfaowner.com at the same time.

OP (ReignSupreme) please accept my apologies for going off topic.

Morris 1000, Austin 1100, Escort Mk2, Fiat Mirafiori, Alfa 33, Alfa GT Junior, Alfasud, Alfetta GTV (2x), Alfa 164 3.0 V6, Alfa 164 2.0, Alfa 75 V6, Alfa 156 2.4 (diesel remapped 200bhp), Alfa 147 GTA (3.6 295bhp), Alfa 159 (diesel remapped 245bhp 300ft.lbs @ 2500rpm)
Why isn't my daughter an Alfaholic?
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ReignSupreme
PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2013 11:57 am Up
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Finally got round to giving this ago today. Removed all the bolts and Co2 sensor and realised that it wasn't the cat I needed to change. The reason the exhaust was blowing was because the mechanic I used last time (I wont again) didn't put the center exhaust clip back on. Jobsworth!
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