|
Author
|
Message |
|
|
 Posted: Fri Mar 08, 2013 6:51 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Posts: 2719
Trade Rating: +6
Location: UK
|
 |
Suspension isn't linked to the engine though?
| |  |
|
|
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Fri Mar 08, 2013 8:35 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Mar 13, 2012
Posts: 239
Trade Rating: +1
Location: Spalding lincolnshire
|
|
Then i am as puzzled as you , but it was definatly broke, didnt cost much to repair as i got 2nd hand stuff on fleabay.
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Sat Mar 09, 2013 6:31 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Oct 18, 2010
Posts: 74
Trade Rating: 0
Location: N wales
|
|
So for a quick update...
Drop links came yesterday, i jacked a side up at a time grinded the bottom nut off and then grinded through the ball joint of the drop link on the top nut because as you will know its impossible to get at the nut with a grinder.
When fitting the new drop links i put the bottom thread in the hole and loosely stuck the nut on, i then got a crow bar and pushed the roll bar down until the top thread was in place then tightened the two nuts up, probably took me 2 hours from start to finish. I live in a dirt road so took it through some pot holes and there was no knocking what so ever!!
Soo now the fuel tank strap has just been delivered , so i will go out and give that a go now and will update you all on how it went...fingers crossed!!
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Sat Mar 09, 2013 6:32 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Oct 18, 2010
Posts: 74
Trade Rating: 0
Location: N wales
|
|
So for a quick update...
Drop links came yesterday, i jacked a side up at a time grinded the bottom nut off and then grinded through the ball joint of the drop link on the top nut because as you will know its impossible to get at the nut with a grinder.
When fitting the new drop links i put the bottom thread in the hole and loosely stuck the nut on, i then got a crow bar and pushed the roll bar down until the top thread was in place then tightened the two nuts up, probably took me 2 hours from start to finish. I live in a dirt road so took it through some pot holes and there was no knocking what so ever!!
Soo now the fuel tank strap has just been delivered , so i will go out and give that a go now and will update you all on how it went...fingers crossed!!
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Sat Mar 09, 2013 7:01 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 08, 2010
Posts: 7045
Trade Rating: +5
Location: In the garage
|
|
Rule number 1 when replacing drop links or any anti roll bar component. Both sides of the car need to be on the same level.
| | |
|
|
|
|
 | |  |
| 2001 GTi 138, Bilstein Sprint dampers, H&R springs, 21mm Peugeot Sport torsion bars, 22mm rear ARB, Peugeot Sport Group A wishbones, 283mm discs, Goodridge stainless hoses, Maniflow 304 grade 4-2-1 2.5" manifold and system, 200 cell cat, Richard Longman head, 45mm Jenvey throttle bodies, 9.5mm TB spacers, 90mm air horns, Jenvey throttle linkage, Jenvey fuel rail, Aeromotive and Goodridge fuel fittings and braided hose, ITG sausage filter, Radtec custom radiator, Piper Ultimate Road cams, Piper vernier pulleys, Omex 600 ECU. Saxo electric PAS pump, Vibra Technics engine mounts. Samco coolant hoses, TTV steel flywheel, 4.76 final drive ratio, 307 CC 180 ratios. 2019 BMW 530i. 2017 Mercedes C300 convertible. | |
 | |  |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Sat Mar 09, 2013 7:05 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 24, 2010
Posts: 2596
Trade Rating: +17
Location: North West Wales
|
|
| Edward wrote: |
| Rule number 1 when replacing drop links or any anti roll bar component. Both sides of the car need to be on the same level. |
Not heard that before, how come it needs to be level?
Never had any trouble with any of the one's i've done with it not being level.
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Sat Mar 09, 2013 7:20 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Oct 18, 2010
Posts: 74
Trade Rating: 0
Location: N wales
|
|
So im in the middle of trying to take the old fuel tank strap off, and well there dirty and gunked up as f***, can not for the life of me figure out how i am going to get the bolts off, any ideas or has any one found this problem before and how did you solve it...
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Sat Mar 09, 2013 7:58 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Apr 30, 2011
Posts: 3
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Devon
|
|
Hi, you really need to clean up the threads with a wire brush or a round wire brush attachment on an angle grinder or a drill. Then as suggested give it a good soaking with penetrating oil and see if they will undo (gently) if they feel like they start to tighten up to the point they may snap try the old tighten again spray with oil then loosen, repeat as necessary. With the car on axle stands use a block of wood and your trolley jack to support the weight of the tank + fuel before you remove the strap. I painted the new strap with waxoyl before i put it on and coated the nuts + threads so it will not rust again. 
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Sat Mar 09, 2013 8:03 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 08, 2010
Posts: 7045
Trade Rating: +5
Location: In the garage
|
|
| LeeThr wrote: |
| Edward wrote: |
| Rule number 1 when replacing drop links or any anti roll bar component. Both sides of the car need to be on the same level. |
Not heard that before, how come it needs to be level?
|
If one side is jacked up the suspension on that side is at full drop. The other side is compressed. The anti roll bar being linked to the compressed side will also be higher up than is desired on the unloaded side. So your drop link will be harder to reach between ARB and strut.
As for the tank strap nuts as I said get some WD-40 on them or similar and clean the threads. Loosen the nuts slightly them wind them back on. Then clean the threads again. New nuts would be a very good idea. As I suggested before.
| | |
|
|
|
|
| | |
| 2001 GTi 138, Bilstein Sprint dampers, H&R springs, 21mm Peugeot Sport torsion bars, 22mm rear ARB, Peugeot Sport Group A wishbones, 283mm discs, Goodridge stainless hoses, Maniflow 304 grade 4-2-1 2.5" manifold and system, 200 cell cat, Richard Longman head, 45mm Jenvey throttle bodies, 9.5mm TB spacers, 90mm air horns, Jenvey throttle linkage, Jenvey fuel rail, Aeromotive and Goodridge fuel fittings and braided hose, ITG sausage filter, Radtec custom radiator, Piper Ultimate Road cams, Piper vernier pulleys, Omex 600 ECU. Saxo electric PAS pump, Vibra Technics engine mounts. Samco coolant hoses, TTV steel flywheel, 4.76 final drive ratio, 307 CC 180 ratios. 2019 BMW 530i. 2017 Mercedes C300 convertible. | |
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Sat Mar 09, 2013 8:13 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Oct 18, 2010
Posts: 74
Trade Rating: 0
Location: N wales
|
|
| DevonTony wrote: |
| Hi, you really need to clean up the threads with a wire brush or a round wire brush attachment on an angle grinder or a drill. Then as suggested give it a good soaking with penetrating oil and see if they will undo (gently) if they feel like they start to tighten up to the point they may snap try the old tighten again spray with oil then loosen, repeat as necessary. With the car on axle stands use a block of wood and your trolley jack to support the weight of the tank + fuel before you remove the strap. I painted the new strap with waxoyl before i put it on and coated the nuts + threads so it will not rust again. |
Ok will give that a go!! Thanks, it seems that the one thats on is rounded so got my dad on his way to try and get it off for me because i know ill get carried away and break something like i usually do haha
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Sat Mar 09, 2013 8:32 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Apr 30, 2011
Posts: 3
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Devon
|
|
It's a pain when someone has rounded a nut off!! if you have some old imperial size sockets you may find one that is slightly smaller which you can tap on using an extension bar and a hammer, sometimes works! Just remember to replace with a new nut so that you don't end up having to struggle again in the future. Good luck!! it's all part of the learning curve, and yes i always used to get my dad to help as well always good to have someone else to blame if it goes wrong ha ha!
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Sat Mar 09, 2013 8:44 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Oct 18, 2010
Posts: 74
Trade Rating: 0
Location: N wales
|
|
Haha that is my exact plan, if i brake it he will be like "well you should t have done this and should have done this.." At least this way if he breaks it..he fixes it!! Plus saves me spending my day under the car in the rain  will update thread when i have got somewhere..
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Sun Mar 10, 2013 12:20 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Posts: 2719
Trade Rating: +6
Location: UK
|
|
| Edward wrote: |
| Rule number 1 when replacing drop links or any anti roll bar component. Both sides of the car need to be on the same level. |
Whenever I've done mine I have jacked under the strut to bring it level. You may also find it knocks again in a few days, it will just need re tightening.
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Membership:
Latest: 
New Today: 0
New Yesterday: 0
Overall: 17129
Online Now [278]:
Visitors: 277
Members: 0
Staff Online Now:
Page Views:
General
Forums Home
Forum FAQ
Search
