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Forums › The Car › 206 Problems › Lambda sensor removal


 
 

Lambda sensor removal
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bikesforme
PostPosted: Thu Apr 18, 2013 12:18 pm Up
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I have brought the lambda socket to remove the lambda sensor in my exhaust manifold, problem is I can not remove it because it slips when you put pressure on it. Any ideas folk
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Timon2210
PostPosted: Thu Apr 18, 2013 12:38 pm Up
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well it's not gonna be an easy job mate,as the lambada sensor always get so hot and then cold,which make it hard to get out,but I would recommend you cut off the wires as you don't need it anymore,then fix the socket,and try to use pipe so you can have more force to apply.
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Edward
PostPosted: Thu Apr 18, 2013 12:59 pm Up
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Proper lambda sockets are no good for removing seized sensors. They just open up and slip.

I've used an adjustable spanner in the past and used my foot to shift the sensor. Or cut the plug off (new Superseal plugs are about £5) and get a ring spanner or deep socket round it.

2001 GTi 138, Bilstein Sprint dampers, H&R springs, 21mm Peugeot Sport torsion bars, 22mm rear ARB, Peugeot Sport Group A wishbones, 283mm discs, Goodridge stainless hoses, Maniflow 304 grade 4-2-1 2.5" manifold and system, 200 cell cat, Richard Longman head, 45mm Jenvey throttle bodies, 9.5mm TB spacers, 90mm air horns, Jenvey throttle linkage, Jenvey fuel rail, Aeromotive and Goodridge fuel fittings and braided hose, ITG sausage filter, Radtec custom radiator, Piper Ultimate Road cams, Piper vernier pulleys, Omex 600 ECU. Saxo electric PAS pump, Vibra Technics engine mounts. Samco coolant hoses, TTV steel flywheel, 4.76 final drive ratio, 307 CC 180 ratios. 2019 BMW 530i. 2017 Mercedes C300 convertible.
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Steve206
PostPosted: Thu Apr 18, 2013 3:20 pm Up
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I found a socket the easiest way, just cut the wring away as said
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V9977
PostPosted: Thu Apr 18, 2013 4:50 pm Up
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Here's my method:

Get one of those garden hose tightening collars (the one with the screw that tightens-up the collar) and simply slip it around the said λ-sensor socket. Then tighten it up accordingly so the sides don-t open which causes the sliping.

You then have a nice spare sensor as there was nothing wrong with it after-all..

1.4i, 2001, 3-door, China Blue

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bikesforme
PostPosted: Thu Apr 18, 2013 8:29 pm Up
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V9977 wrote:
Here's my method:

Get one of those garden hose tightening collars (the one with the screw that tightens-up the collar) and simply slip it around the said λ-sensor socket. Then tighten it up accordingly so the sides don-t open which causes the sliping.

You then have a nice spare sensor as there was nothing wrong with it after-all..

Good idea, been and brought a 22mm deep socket now, so just going to cut it. I read somewhere that you should change the lambda sensors after x amount of years, my car being 12 years old and 135000 miles and had a new cat thought it would be good to replace both , help towards getting it through mot next.

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Steve206
PostPosted: Fri Apr 19, 2013 2:57 am Up
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I wouldn't bother unless there's a fault. Where did you get the sensors from? There not cheap enough to warrant changing due to age. Cheap ones won't last.
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V9977
PostPosted: Fri Apr 19, 2013 4:52 am Up
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bikesforme wrote:
V9977 wrote:
Here's my method:

Get one of those garden hose tightening collars (the one with the screw that tightens-up the collar) and simply slip it around the said λ-sensor socket. Then tighten it up accordingly so the sides don-t open which causes the sliping.

You then have a nice spare sensor as there was nothing wrong with it after-all..

Good idea, been and brought a 22mm deep socket now, so just going to cut it. I read somewhere that you should change the lambda sensors after x amount of years, my car being 12 years old and 135000 miles and had a new cat thought it would be good to replace both , help towards getting it through mot next.

Yes, done it myself due to age and there was a marked improvement. OEM NTK sensors are a third the price from ebay compared to getting it from the dealer's, and are exactly the original fitted part.

1.4i, 2001, 3-door, China Blue

Repair safely - Drive safely
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bikesforme
PostPosted: Fri Apr 19, 2013 9:01 am Up
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Well all done now, cut wires deep 22mm socket and long breaker bar made the job very easy. I have a spare set of front brakes which I am going to rebuild, and waiting for some groved discs to come, then I am replacing all and fitting s/steel hoses and car then all done.

 
So far car has had just over £1000 spent on it plus £200 purchase price, once brakes are done I plan on keeping it for 1-2 year until I have the money for a nice bmw 320d E90.

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Edward
PostPosted: Fri Apr 19, 2013 9:29 am Up
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Braided hoses are a waste of money on that car. They don't do anything on a road car.
2001 GTi 138, Bilstein Sprint dampers, H&R springs, 21mm Peugeot Sport torsion bars, 22mm rear ARB, Peugeot Sport Group A wishbones, 283mm discs, Goodridge stainless hoses, Maniflow 304 grade 4-2-1 2.5" manifold and system, 200 cell cat, Richard Longman head, 45mm Jenvey throttle bodies, 9.5mm TB spacers, 90mm air horns, Jenvey throttle linkage, Jenvey fuel rail, Aeromotive and Goodridge fuel fittings and braided hose, ITG sausage filter, Radtec custom radiator, Piper Ultimate Road cams, Piper vernier pulleys, Omex 600 ECU. Saxo electric PAS pump, Vibra Technics engine mounts. Samco coolant hoses, TTV steel flywheel, 4.76 final drive ratio, 307 CC 180 ratios. 2019 BMW 530i. 2017 Mercedes C300 convertible.
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Quasar911
PostPosted: Fri Apr 19, 2013 9:43 am Up
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gardening collar that tightens is known as a Jubilee Clip
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MrBSI
PostPosted: Fri Apr 19, 2013 9:49 am Up
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Edward wrote:
Braided hoses are a waste of money on that car. They don't do anything on a road car.

What He Said

Got Goodridge braided hoses on mine & there isn't any difference in feel over the standard hoses.

Lucky they where cheap with work discount Laughing

Toyota C-HR GR Sport 2.0 Hybrid with JBL & Alcantara packs.
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Edward
PostPosted: Fri Apr 19, 2013 10:16 am Up
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Get the braided hoses for looks only.
2001 GTi 138, Bilstein Sprint dampers, H&R springs, 21mm Peugeot Sport torsion bars, 22mm rear ARB, Peugeot Sport Group A wishbones, 283mm discs, Goodridge stainless hoses, Maniflow 304 grade 4-2-1 2.5" manifold and system, 200 cell cat, Richard Longman head, 45mm Jenvey throttle bodies, 9.5mm TB spacers, 90mm air horns, Jenvey throttle linkage, Jenvey fuel rail, Aeromotive and Goodridge fuel fittings and braided hose, ITG sausage filter, Radtec custom radiator, Piper Ultimate Road cams, Piper vernier pulleys, Omex 600 ECU. Saxo electric PAS pump, Vibra Technics engine mounts. Samco coolant hoses, TTV steel flywheel, 4.76 final drive ratio, 307 CC 180 ratios. 2019 BMW 530i. 2017 Mercedes C300 convertible.
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bikesforme
PostPosted: Fri Apr 19, 2013 1:18 pm Up
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Hoses off the list then, i just feel the brakes are the only thing that let the car down now. I have changed the brake fluid but to be honest they didnt make any difference, they just need more feel; bite.
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MrBSI
PostPosted: Fri Apr 19, 2013 1:25 pm Up
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bikesforme wrote:
i just feel the brakes are the only thing that let the car down now. I have changed the brake fluid but to be honest they didnt make any difference, they just need more feel; bite.

That's down to the right hand drive design.

I wouldn't mind to have a go in a left hand drive 206 & see what the brake feel is like with the pedal directly connected to the master cylinder & not through a transfer linkage.

Toyota C-HR GR Sport 2.0 Hybrid with JBL & Alcantara packs.
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