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Forums › The Car › 206 Problems › Poor starting 2005 GTI 180


 
 

Poor starting 2005 GTI 180
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kwakzx7r
PostPosted: Thu May 16, 2013 4:05 pm Up
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Since owning my my 180 i've noticed the starting getting worse. Not so bad first thing in the morning when stone cold but is starting to take longer after been left for 5 hrs or so, then it winds over for a bit then runs lumpy for a few minutes but does clear and run fine. Haven't as yet checked the plugs and air filter but will check them tomorrow. Have checked for codes and none stored. Anything else I should be checking or looking at Question or common issues they suffer from Question
Thanks for help and advice Smile

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gtijames22
PostPosted: Thu May 16, 2013 4:54 pm Up
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a service and plugs should sort u out, also check if your battery needs replacing
GTI 180 JIM
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kwakzx7r
PostPosted: Fri May 17, 2013 5:08 am Up
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UPDATE. replaced air filter this morning and the old one wasn't to bad, seen worse. Replaced plugs and the old ones are burning fine on the tip but black and dry sooty on the rest of the plug on all four of them. This to me fits the symptoms perfectly. Cold start fine as its cold and needs the extra fueling. 5 hours later, when not stone cold it struggles to start and looking at the plugs it's running rich so overfueling. Also the exhaust looks too black and sooty. Can anyone tell me which and where is the sensor that tells the ecu the temperature of the engine as I believe this is whats causing the problem and causing the car to run to rich.
Thanks again for any further help.

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kwakzx7r
PostPosted: Fri May 17, 2013 6:10 am Up
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Located and replaced the sensor. Now to see if it has sorted the problem.
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kwakzx7r
PostPosted: Sat May 18, 2013 8:35 am Up
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mmmmmmmmmm well that didnt work. Started this morning from cold on the button. Left it parked for 4 hrs and returned to start it and it winds over for a bit before it starts lumpy, soon clears though. Ive read here that they don't like NGK plugs and even the dealer confirmed this so may try some Bosch plugs next. Other than that im not sure what to try next.
Any ideas guys and gals ???

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HowlingMadMurdock
PostPosted: Sat May 18, 2013 10:22 am Up
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It sound an obvious or silly question but there aren't any obstructions to the airflow into the airbox or between the filter and engine that restricts airflow?
I ain't nuts, I'm condiments, I've been promoted
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eddie206
PostPosted: Sun May 19, 2013 8:43 am Up
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Im sure i remember this fault from somewhere and the fix for it was new emmision sensors on the exhaust near the cat...
Does anybody know any more on this because short of changing them/it im not sure how you might test them/it
I say them/it because some have 1some2.

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macca1411
PostPosted: Sun May 19, 2013 9:15 am Up
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It could be a Lambda sensor. If the sensor is picking up the wrong readings, it will tell the ECU to deliver more/less fuel.
A simple check would be to do a live data reading to see what the values are.

There was a service bulletin sent from Peugeot regarding NGK plugs causing an issue with the coil pack. Some people have never had a problem with them though, so you'll get a mixed response on this.

Do you run the tank to almost empty often? There is a chance that you have got some crap in the petrol pipe that's been lifted up from the bottom of the tank.

Do you use supermarket fuel or a premium grade? This can make a difference and clog up the injectors. Maybe run a bottle of injector cleaner through with your next fill up. A cheap method compared to some of the other things you could do.

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kandlbarrett
PostPosted: Wed May 22, 2013 12:50 pm Up
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It could also be a very slight leak in your exhaust before a lambda sensor. The leak will allow air in, the air contains oxygen and the lambda sensor will "see" that excess oxygen and send a signal to the ECU requesting more fuel.

For me I would also be thinking crank or cam position sensor. When first starting to fail these are notorious for failing when hot but being fine when cold but get progressively worse over time.

I would also get the codes read. There may be stored codes from previous fails to start that have not caused the engine light to be on as not every stored code immediately causes the light to be on.

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kwakzx7r
PostPosted: Wed May 22, 2013 2:08 pm Up
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Thanks for the advice guys, first off i'll change the NGK plugs for Bosch which i've just ordered and if no improvement i'll start looking at the suggestions you given me. At least now I have some more options to try. Thanks for your help, i'll update with progress
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kwakzx7r
PostPosted: Wed May 22, 2013 2:23 pm Up
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Just to add, no eml light on dash and I did put my scanner on it and it came up no fault codes stored.
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manuchehri
PostPosted: Wed May 22, 2013 3:24 pm Up
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hi , i'm mechanic in iran and work in toyota branch . and for the second job work at a garage on Diag .
i have a same problem with 206 but achieve some goals , lets me share my experience :

1) becuse of evaporate of engine oil your throttel and your MAP sensor and your stepper motor getting messy, SO clean your throttel
with a throttel cleaner spray ( i preffer to use Worth spray) . first remove you air intake filter and then start your car .
and spray in to the throttel and at the same time try to keep the engine on . on the electronic throttels it's hard becuse some one from inside the car
must try to keep throtel open and engine on but on the old throttel you yourself can spray and try to keep engine on .

2) if your car has a electronic throttel you haven't stepper motor , else you should bring out the stepper motor from behinde the throttel
( use T 20 to oprn that ) and clean it by spray . ***dont turn the shaft right or left . if you turn the shaft it will lose it's time on stepper
_ stepper motor has 200 step ***

3) chage your fuel filter to be sure you will have enough fuel presser in injector rail .

4) your injector rail has a valfe that when you press that the fuel must jump out very fast . if your fuel pump by pass valve has problem after
4 or more that 4 hours the fuel in the rail and the fuel way will come back to the fuel tank and when you want to start the engine there is no
ready fuel behinde the injector . SO you have to start 3 or more times to charge the injector rail . *** how test that ? you can switch on
in the morning but don't start for 10 seconds and then switch off for 10 seconds and do the same again. turn switch on for 10 seconds bust don't start
then switch off for 10 seconds . finally switch on for 10 seconds and after that start the engine . if your car starts easily the problem is your fuel pume .
when you switch on your fuel pump works for 10 seconds and if you strat the engine it's keep working else it will getting off . when you do this for 3 times
infact you are charging your injector rail .

5) filler your valves . suggest ask a mechanic to do the filler for you becuse it's a hard and quaint .

6) filler your plugs in 80

i hope my experience be usefull for you my freind .

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eddie206
PostPosted: Wed May 22, 2013 7:50 pm Up
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This sounds really intetesting manuchehri...your Englush is also good but not quite perfect so with this being such important advice i hope you dont mind if i translate/perfect your English so everyone can understand the advice easily???

1)Because of mist of oil and fuel on your throttle,your MAP sensor and your stepper motor thus causes build up so cleaning your throttle is important.

With a throttle cleaner spray remove the air intake filter then start your car.
With the engine running hold the throttle open using the throttle cable arch or with someone holding the throttle open from revving from inside then spray the throttle cleaner into the throttle with the engine running.

2)If your car has electronic throttle you will not have a stepper motor but if it has you should bring out the stepper motor from behind the throttle(use a torx bit 20 to do this)then clean it with the spray...be carefull not to turn the shaft left or right as the stepper has 200settings and its difficult to set up.

3)Change your fuel filter to make sure you have enough fuel pressure in the injector rail..

4)Your injector rail has a valve(cycle tyre valve)that when it is pressed fuel will spray rapidly..If the fuel pump by pass valve has a problem after leaving the car for 4hours or more the fuel rail or the fuel way will send the fuel back to the fuel tank and when you want to start the car it wont start because there is no ready fuel now behind the injectors...so you will have to start the car three or more times to recharge the injector rail.***How do we test this???well..you can switch on in the morning but dont start for 10 seconds then switch off for 10 seconds then do the same again...switch on for 10 seconds but do not start...then switch off for 10 seconds-finally switch on for 10 seconds then after that start the engine...

If the car then starts easily the problem is your fuel pump-when you switch on your fuel pump works for 10 seconds and if you start the engine it keeps working or needs checking...
When you do this you are actualy charging the injector rail the 3 or more times it needs to recharge with fuel ready to run.

THE NEXT STEPS ARE UNCLEAR?
5)Use the feeler gauges on your valves settings...ask a mechanic to do thus as it is difficult.

6)Use the feeler gauges on your spark plugs(setting them to 80 is recommended)

I hope the original poster can check my version.

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kwakzx7r
PostPosted: Sat May 25, 2013 8:49 am Up
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Well, just fitted the new Bosch plugs this morning, so will run it this week and see if it makes any difference first before I start any further investigation.
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kwakzx7r
PostPosted: Mon May 27, 2013 9:24 am Up
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Took it for a spin this morning and can definitely feel the difference with the Bosch plugs fitted. Runs smoother and is more responsive to throttle input. Fingers crossed the warm starting improves
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