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Forums › The Car › 206 Problems › 206 front springs advice


 
 

206 front springs advice
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Achillez
PostPosted: Mon Aug 05, 2013 7:49 am Up
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Hello all,

I lowered my car around 6 months ago, I bought KYB ultra St shocks with eibach sport line 50mm drop, I find it pretty rough on the roads, my question is if I go for springs with 35mm drop will I see the difference on the road? Is 15mm going to make my car any smoother or isn't it enough ? I don't really want to go back to OEM because it makes my car look like a monster truck + so much body roll.

I'd go for 20mm-30mm springs but I don't think they make them, can't find any, lowest I could find was 35mm


Thanks

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Steve206
PostPosted: Mon Aug 05, 2013 12:32 pm Up
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Sounds like s***ty shocks might be half the problem. You've got decent springs with an unheard of shock. How much is the rear lowered?
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MrBSI
PostPosted: Mon Aug 05, 2013 12:37 pm Up
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KYB are average for dampers.

Gabriel would be a better choice for a damper ( wonder how many people on here have actually heard of them? ) Laughing

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Achillez
PostPosted: Mon Aug 05, 2013 12:47 pm Up
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Really? Not heard of kayaba Kyb? I haven't lowered the rear. The shocks cost me £160 I think and springs £95. If 35mm will feel the same I'd rather put it back standard, but I'd like to know if replacing 50mm to 35mm will make a difference in road driving.

The sport line eibach springs did in fact drop my car 2.5inchs which is actually more than 50mm, no idea what went wrong, I might of had the wrong springs to begin with.

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Achillez
PostPosted: Mon Aug 05, 2013 6:05 pm Up
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anyone able to advise me on the above? anyone that does alot in suspension work? Also is it true that GTI are 10mm lower than standard 206? what if I replace my 50mm eibach with GTI springs? will they fit my xsi? 10mm is better than nothing. if its true & fits xsi shocks has anyone got part number for the gti springs


thanks

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Lecktorious
PostPosted: Tue Aug 06, 2013 1:28 am Up
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Eibach springs normally have a few different lowering sizes. Sounds like you may have bought the wrong springs.
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Steve206
PostPosted: Tue Aug 06, 2013 1:54 am Up
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10mm won't be noticeable, 35mm would be better. Why isnt the rear lowered? That won't help
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Achillez
PostPosted: Tue Aug 06, 2013 2:08 am Up
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Rear is fine like it is. Regarding the front springs will 15mm do all that much of a different on the road? If not I'd rather just go back standard
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kandlbarrett
PostPosted: Tue Aug 06, 2013 4:59 am Up
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It isn't strictly about the drop. Though as you go lower the springs need to be quite stiff to avoid bottoming out and hitting the bump stops but a higher ride height allows slightly softer springs. You also need to consider what profile tyres you have.

You must consider that springs, shocks, tyre profile, anti-roll bar and car weight all work together to give overall ride quality and body control. Put your combination on a 5 series diesel BMW and I suspect it would feel very soft.

You really do need to take some advice from specialists on what works with what. A 50mm drop is quite a lot so it will need to be stiff to avoid bottoming out. 35mm is less and leaves more room for a softer spring / shock combination. Perhaps add a slightly taller profile tyre and you will get what you are looking for. To control body roll you ought to be looking for stiffer anti-roll bars rather than just doing that via springs.

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Achillez
PostPosted: Tue Aug 06, 2013 7:28 am Up
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How do you know how hard/soft a spring is without purchasing it, I can find info on Max axle load, is this what I go for? Heavier it is the harder?
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kandlbarrett
PostPosted: Tue Aug 06, 2013 11:45 am Up
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Every retailer should be able to get the spring rate for you. It used to be given in pounds (lbs) / inch. In other words the amount of weight needed to compress the spring one inch.
Remember though that dampers (please don't call them shock absorbers because to be technically correct the springs are the shock absorbers) must be matched to the spring rate.
If your dampers are to stiff for your springs you can suffer from the dampers preventing spring compression or rebound (a very harsh ride) and over repeated bumps the suspension will run out of stroke.
The opposite of this is where springs are to stiff for the dampers and then you get a pogo effect because the damper can't stop the spring bouncing.
It maybe that you have both good quality springs and dampers but that they are mismatched to each other or your car.
Finally do remember that roll in long sweeping bends will rely almost as much on your anti roll bar as your springs.

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kandlbarrett
PostPosted: Tue Aug 06, 2013 11:53 am Up
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PS. Having lowered your car have you done anything about correcting steering geometry. I bet your front toe and camber are now quite a long way out and you will get severe front tyre wear and possibly less ultimate grip than in a standard car.
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Achillez
PostPosted: Tue Aug 06, 2013 5:03 pm Up
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I'll have to look up for the spring / damper rate, when you say front toe and camber you mean have I got the car tracked since lowering? If so yea I've done that.

When I first replaced my dampers and lowered springs, I've got to say the drive was nice, perfect tbh, but now it keeps bottoming out and very bumpy, maybe because they've settled? So if I'm bottoming out this means my dampers are to soft for the springs?

I might buy eibach pro kit 30mm drop and replace my eibach sport line 50mm drop, I just hope I haven't destroyed my dampers.

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kandlbarrett
PostPosted: Tue Aug 06, 2013 6:02 pm Up
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Now we seem to be getting somewhere - why didn't you tell the whole story to start with. It could be that your new dampers have failed. Also are you certain that you don't have a broken spring - the top coil can break and that is quite difficult to see. A shorter spring is effectively a stiffer spring and also puts the car closer to the bump stops.
Morris 1000, Austin 1100, Escort Mk2, Fiat Mirafiori, Alfa 33, Alfa GT Junior, Alfasud, Alfetta GTV (2x), Alfa 164 3.0 V6, Alfa 164 2.0, Alfa 75 V6, Alfa 156 2.4 (diesel remapped 200bhp), Alfa 147 GTA (3.6 295bhp), Alfa 159 (diesel remapped 245bhp 300ft.lbs @ 2500rpm)
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Achillez
PostPosted: Wed Aug 07, 2013 7:09 am Up
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Springs looks to be complete, if its my dampers I'm in trouble, warranty won't cover faults caused my lowered springs, I was hoping this was because of the suspension settling and not faulty, I cut my bump stops in half, steering is a lot easier to turn and it actually absorbs little bumps but car is all over the road now :s , but still bottoms out sometimes over speed bumps depending on speed. I'm pretty sure before cutting bump stops my car was sitting on top of them, how do I test dampers without taking them off? Don't wanna buy new springs and find out my dampers are shot and I don't wanna buy new dampers and use old springs just to kill the dampers again 3 months down the line and I really don't wanna have to purchase dampers and springs again. Think my option is to go buy cheap OEM dampers and springs
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