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 Posted: Sat Dec 14, 2013 11:27 am |
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Joined: Jan 05, 2012
Posts: 53
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Oxford
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Hey all, this has probably been covered many times but I can't find anything so please link if it has.
So a basically a couple of weeks ago she threw up the EML so I got the codes read and they came aback as follows.
P0571- brake switch current no signal
P0101- air flow sensor circuit at maximum limit
P1521- clutch switch signal: consistency with vehicle speed
P0221- accelerator pedal signal: coherence between 1&2
I'd like to say at this point that it was qui cold when the light came up. So a few weeks later the temp dropped again and the light came up again, the guy that cleared them originally had said it was probably the MAF that was throwing the light up as the other faults wouldn't raise the EML so I went onto eBay and got a new MAF but I don't know if it's the same problem but everytime it's cold weather and I start the car the idle is rough and drops the idle down slightly, also when pull away if I don't get the revs up she try's to stall or kicks out a puff of black smoke. Now is this a problem with the MAF or is there another problem? I don't perticually want to go pay out for an OEM MAF if that isn't the problem.
Ideas please?
Thanks Sam
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| "if someone has put it together then I will take it apart" it might never work again but at least I will have an understanding of how it worked and might be able to buy another
The voices in my head may not be real, but they have some good ideas!! | |
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Posted: Sat Dec 14, 2013 3:22 pm |
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Joined: Oct 17, 2012
Posts: 83
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Bedfordshire
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Only genuine MAF's should be used all others are rubbish and go faulty quickly.
To see if it is the MAF at fault unplug it (not with the engine running) and go for a drive and see if it happens. When you unplug it the ECU uses stored settings.
If it only happens when it's cold I would say your issue is with the injectors, glow plugs or both.
I would see what codes are logged now. Most people make the mistake and think that all the codes are actual faults but most the time it is only one that is the true fault. You should always clear the codes then go for a drive then see what codes appear and these are usually the true codes.
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Posted: Sun Dec 15, 2013 2:15 am |
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Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Posts: 2720
Trade Rating: +6
Location: UK
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It will be the MAF more than likely, and as said only use genuine, Possibly source a known working second hand. The fault will need resetting when change the MAf so the car can readapt
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