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 Posted: Sat Dec 21, 2013 10:04 am |
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Joined: Dec 21, 2013
Posts: 23
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Yorkshire
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Hi all,
New member, first time 206 owner. I got myself a MY 2000 206 HDi 90 for £300. Precisely the engine I wanted and bar a sticking electric window and broken cigarette lighter everything works and I'm happy with it. One problem I have though is that there is a slight pull to the left under acceleration above speeds of 50 mph. Initially I thought it was bad tracking looking at uneven wear on one tyre so I got a new tyre and the front wheels aligned. While that was done the mechanics pointed out that the front brake discs and pads need replacing and the sway bar bushes are finishes. I had both of these in mind already and will be attending to them although I doubt they are behind the pull problem. Or could they be? Anyway I was wondering if anyone has had this problem before or if there is any wisdom you can share. By the way this car is a workhorse, it has its fair share of dings and has done 185 000 miles. The clutch is worn but works fine.
Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Cheers!
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| MY 2005 206 1.4 HDi Zest 3dr. | |
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Posted: Sat Dec 21, 2013 11:14 am |
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Joined: Sep 12, 2010
Posts: 1912
Trade Rating: +4
Location: Manchester
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Just sounds like torque steer
quote en.wikipedia.org/wiki/..._steering:
"Causes
Root causes for torque steer are:[1]
Incorrect sidewall ply design allowing deformation of the tire sidewall.[2]
Asymmetric driveshaft angles due to any combination of
Unequal driveshaft length or diameter
Transient movement of the engine
Tolerances in engine mounts
Body roll
Single wheel bump
Different driveshaft torques left to right (due to wheel bearing or differential problems)
Suspension geometry tolerances
Unequal traction forces due to road surface (µ-Split) in combination with kingpin offset
The problems associated with unequal length driveshafts is endemic to the transverse engine layout combined with an end mounted transmission unit; some manufacturers have mitigated this completely by mounting the engine longitudinally but still driving the front wheels - this indeed was the solution adopted on the earliest front wheel drive Citroens. Early Renault front driven models such as the R4, R5 Phase I and R12 also adopted this layout, as does Audi to the present day in its mid size models upward. The key disadvantage is packaging, since it extends the front overhangs of the vehicle, and in the case of Audi, who mount the power unit ahead of the front axle line, compromises handling by going against the perfect 50:50 weight distribution. This configuration does however facilitate the easy addition of all wheel drive - Subaru also uses the overhung longditudinal engine for the same reason, but mitigate the issue of unbalanced centre of gravity by using a "flat-four" boxer engine."
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Posted: Sat Dec 21, 2013 11:40 am |
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Joined: Dec 21, 2013
Posts: 23
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Yorkshire
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Mmm good list for diagnosis there. It's certainly not torque steer due to the performance of the engine 90 bhp and 200 nm aren't performance figures I would associate with torque steer. I previously drove a 163 bhp, 340 nm Volvo S60 D5 which had no torque steer at all. I'm slightly concerned that it's a gearbox/diff/drive shaft issue looking at that. Thanks!
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| MY 2005 206 1.4 HDi Zest 3dr. | |
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Posted: Sat Dec 21, 2013 12:24 pm |
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Joined: Jun 19, 2010
Posts: 1600
Trade Rating: +4
Location: South Bucks
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Have you got matching tyres on the front? Did the new tyre go on the rear as it should have?
Check all the suspension arm bushes especially the two large one at the chassis mount and the balljoints.
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| Down to just the 1.4 HDi. Cayman Green 2.0i CC sold. | |
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Posted: Sun Dec 22, 2013 2:53 am |
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Joined: Nov 28, 2010
Posts: 322
Trade Rating: 0
Location: south wales
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In the experience I've had with our 206, due to the weight and design of the engine the front wish bones go a lot which can cause torque steer BUT also check for rear wheel steer, jack back of car up and try and move wheel in and out. Grab hold of the front of the wheel and pull back and for.
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| Mark
03 206 1.4 hdi 3 door 187k
02 transit 100 280 196k
04 renault Laguna 80k
09 transit 115 300 43k. | |
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Posted: Sun Dec 22, 2013 7:20 am |
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Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Posts: 3085
Trade Rating: +12
Location: Essex
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Front wishbones..... but check tyre pressures for a bonus fix
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Posted: Sun Dec 22, 2013 9:25 am |
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Joined: May 16, 2011
Posts: 495
Trade Rating: +1
Location: huddersfield
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| 206 2ltr Hdi glx 53 plate | |
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Posted: Mon Dec 23, 2013 5:52 pm |
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Joined: Dec 21, 2013
Posts: 23
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Yorkshire
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Yeah the MOT history check is very telling. It failed in June 2013 on the following:
Registration plate lamp insecure (1.1.C.1c)
Fuel system component leaking (7.2.3)
Nearside Front Macpherson strut has excessive movement in the upper support bearing assembly (2.5.B.1b)
Offside Front Macpherson strut has excessive movement in the upper support bearing assembly (2.5.B.1b)
Offside Front Lower Suspension arm rubber bush deteriorated resulting in excessive movement (2.4.G.2)
Offside Rear wheel bearing rough when rotated (2.6.1)
Nearside Rear Axle swivel joint has excessive play (2.5.A.3b)
And it passed in September 2013 with just an advisory on a tyre. Suffice to say it should have failed on the ARB at least and the brakes probably.
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| MY 2005 206 1.4 HDi Zest 3dr. | |
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Posted: Thu Jan 02, 2014 11:24 am |
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Joined: Dec 21, 2013
Posts: 23
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Yorkshire
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No solution so far unfortunately. I've had a very good look underneath the car while changing the front brake discs and pads. Everything is pretty tight in my opinion. Maybe it could be the wishbones and I just can't pull on them hard enough. Likewise the back end is tight as a drum. Its a soft, wallowy feeling when it pulls, like someone is pushing the car over very slightly. Also tried swapping back and front tyres to no avail. Next on the list is changing front anti roll bar bushes but I doubt it will help.
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| MY 2005 206 1.4 HDi Zest 3dr. | |
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Posted: Tue Jan 07, 2014 5:38 pm |
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Joined: Jun 20, 2012
Posts: 1171
Trade Rating: +1
Location: West Country
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Hi Biggles,
I think I should release a pulling-under-accel bible, here it is:
www.206info.co.uk/Foru...54530.html
My problem in the end was that wishbones were not symmetrical (never change them one by one! ;))
Now I'm having a new pulling problem ( www.206info.co.uk/Foru...15351.html ), and the best way to describe it is to be as detailed as possible, because causes vary a lot. Have you sorted your bit?
Cheers,
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Posted: Thu Jan 09, 2014 5:56 pm |
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Joined: Dec 21, 2013
Posts: 23
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Yorkshire
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Firstly Sledge I must say that your first pulling-under-acceleration epic is a fantastically detailed account. Well done putting all that info in there, it will help many I'm sure. I'm unable to work on the car right now as I'm busy studying. After reading the entire thread I think it is worth me changing my wishbones. Conveniently we have the same age car with the same engine which increases the odds that the problem is the same.
The wishbones feel ok when I pull on them to be honest but the rubber looks less than brilliant (there are some peelings on the edges) so maybe at full load and at speed it is still enough to cause a pull. Wishbones are the most likely culprit. However I will check the engine mount first of course when I get a chance. I was musing with the idea of the drive shafts being shagged due to the mileage, but the odds are against that. If its the diff, then the car can go to scrap, it's not worth it. After all the vehicle was mainly bought because if I stopped my insurance on a big, expensive to insure Volvo S60 mid way, I would loose my 3rd year no claims discount which will come up in April and give a big discount on future insurance.
A further thing about the whole pull issue, there is a rumble/vibration between 50 and 60 mph. It clears completely after 60 mph.
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| MY 2005 206 1.4 HDi Zest 3dr. | |
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