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 Posted: Wed Mar 26, 2014 11:48 am |
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Joined: Mar 25, 2014
Posts: 9
Trade Rating: 0
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Posted: Wed Mar 26, 2014 12:05 pm |
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Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Posts: 3935
Trade Rating: +84
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i have never seen a mot refusal list that big before.
Thats a lot of work and will cost a fair amount too,
IMO its not worth the hassle,
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Posted: Wed Mar 26, 2014 12:09 pm |
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Joined: Mar 25, 2014
Posts: 9
Trade Rating: 0
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Out of all of the problems with it, what would you say are the costliest and how much would you say I am looking at paying? I have a good friend who would be able to help me get the car sorted out but I have not spoke with him yet about it.
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Posted: Wed Mar 26, 2014 12:40 pm |
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Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Posts: 4455
Trade Rating: +1
Location: Essex
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| Dulayne wrote: |
| I have not spoke with him yet about it. |
Speak to him 
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Posted: Wed Mar 26, 2014 12:43 pm |
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Joined: Mar 25, 2014
Posts: 9
Trade Rating: 0
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| E5GDM wrote: |
| Dulayne wrote: |
| I have not spoke with him yet about it. |
Speak to him |
Of course I can do that, I was just looking for some opinions on the work involved. I am a newbie to car repair etc.
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Posted: Wed Mar 26, 2014 1:00 pm |
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Joined: Jan 29, 2011
Posts: 6526
Trade Rating: +10
Location: Westhoughton, Lancashire
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Looking at the list, it doesn't look too bad to me, but to someone else it will look like the car is falling to bits and needs major surgery.
Is it worth doing? On a 2007 car yes, on a 1999 model, no.
It always baffles me why people present a car for MOT with so many obvious faults in the first place, but then to leave it almost 12 months before bothering about it....
Now to get it through a test you will probably have to do the advisories, whereas if you had done the failure work straight away, you could prioritise the advisory work over the next 12 months, spread the cost and the time.
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Posted: Wed Mar 26, 2014 1:51 pm |
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Joined: Mar 25, 2014
Posts: 9
Trade Rating: 0
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| macca1411 wrote: |
Looking at the list, it doesn't look too bad to me, but to someone else it will look like the car is falling to bits and needs major surgery.
Is it worth doing? On a 2007 car yes, on a 1999 model, no.
It always baffles me why people present a car for MOT with so many obvious faults in the first place, but then to leave it almost 12 months before bothering about it....
Now to get it through a test you will probably have to do the advisories, whereas if you had done the failure work straight away, you could prioritise the advisory work over the next 12 months, spread the cost and the time. |
Sadly you have me there, money and other things made it hard. That is my fault and problem though. You make some good points macca, I am looking to get another car sometime next year when my finances will likely be much better, so getting this sorted out is the only "realistic" option available to me.
The car drove and handled well, no creaks whines or anything major (apart from the exhaust needing work/replacement due to it purring like a kitten with a cold).
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Posted: Wed Mar 26, 2014 2:59 pm |
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Joined: Oct 17, 2012
Posts: 25
Trade Rating: 0
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My car was the exact same. I bought a 52 plate 1.4 2 years ago as my first car. I bought it knowing it was an mot failure but that didn't really bother me considering I had all the time in the world to put it right while my insurance came down. Anyways it's had new wishbones and driveshafts, steering rack, drop links, discs and pads, cambelt, crankshaft oil seal, clutch, brake pipe, lambda sensors, cat, tyres, wipers, battery, driver's side hub. The car had its mot yesterday and it failed only to be passed half hour later!
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Posted: Wed Mar 26, 2014 3:33 pm |
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Joined: Oct 24, 2013
Posts: 75
Trade Rating: +1
Location: worksop
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I cant see the picture, what reg is the car?
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Posted: Wed Mar 26, 2014 5:52 pm |
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Joined: Jul 13, 2010
Posts: 1032
Trade Rating: +10
Location: sutton surrey/welwyn garden city
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For someone that knows what there doing I don't think it would take that long to sort out. You need some bulbs replacing, looks like a new exhaust from the cat back or just some new clamps. Have a look at the shoes and adjust or replace, replace or unseize the brake load sensing valve. It would be quicker and easier to replace the drive shafts than replace the cv joints unless the joints are ok,if they are then just regrease and put new gaiters on.The boot latch might just need adjusting, then you will need two tyres and maybe the tracking done after you have replaced the anti rollbar links. Get the headlights adjusted by the garage before the test and you should be good to go. The oil leak your friend will have to look at, could just be the filter or rocker cover gasket has perished and needs replacing.
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| You never really learn to swear until you learn to drive | |
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Posted: Sat Mar 29, 2014 7:45 pm |
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Joined: Mar 25, 2014
Posts: 9
Trade Rating: 0
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| ukskater01 wrote: |
| For someone that knows what there doing I don't think it would take that long to sort out. You need some bulbs replacing, looks like a new exhaust from the cat back or just some new clamps. Have a look at the shoes and adjust or replace, replace or unseize the brake load sensing valve. It would be quicker and easier to replace the drive shafts than replace the cv joints unless the joints are ok,if they are then just regrease and put new gaiters on.The boot latch might just need adjusting, then you will need two tyres and maybe the tracking done after you have replaced the anti rollbar links. Get the headlights adjusted by the garage before the test and you should be good to go. The oil leak your friend will have to look at, could just be the filter or rocker cover gasket has perished and needs replacing. |
Ahh thanks for your insight into all of that, I guess all of the work if I were to get it all done by a garage would cost a fair bit. What do you think would be the costliest to work? I am guessing the exhaust and suspension/cv stuff?
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Posted: Sat Mar 29, 2014 7:51 pm |
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Joined: Jul 13, 2010
Posts: 1032
Trade Rating: +10
Location: sutton surrey/welwyn garden city
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Yeah the exhaust is gonna set you back around £100 depending where you get it but you never know you might get away with new clamps depending on the condition of the old exhaust. You could always just get a quote for the work, you don't have to get it done at that garage though.
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| You never really learn to swear until you learn to drive | |
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Posted: Sat Mar 29, 2014 8:13 pm |
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Joined: Mar 25, 2014
Posts: 9
Trade Rating: 0
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| ukskater01 wrote: |
| Yeah the exhaust is gonna set you back around £100 depending where you get it but you never know you might get away with new clamps depending on the condition of the old exhaust. You could always just get a quote for the work, you don't have to get it done at that garage though. |
Yeah the exhaust just sounds like a patch up and tighten jobbie. It was the anti-roll bar stuff and other things that made me wonder.
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Posted: Sun Mar 30, 2014 4:53 am |
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Joined: Feb 22, 2014
Posts: 12
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Blackpool
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Easy way to look at this situation is the cost, how much would it cost to get though the MOT and how much to buy another with a new MOT...sometimes better the devil you know
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Posted: Sun Mar 30, 2014 11:54 am |
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Joined: Mar 25, 2014
Posts: 9
Trade Rating: 0
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| Andy206 wrote: |
| Easy way to look at this situation is the cost, how much would it cost to get though the MOT and how much to buy another with a new MOT...sometimes better the devil you know |
Yeah this is the kicker, the car drove and handled fine. It would stop without any ill feeling from the brakes, would not roll back so the handbrake must just need adjusting. Exchaust has just got to be a case of patching up and connecting (if a replace is not required). Of course there is the other stuff.
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