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 Posted: Tue Jun 24, 2014 6:06 am |
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Joined: Jun 18, 2012
Posts: 280
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Birmingham
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The tester said he tried adjusting it manually however it is just clicking and not adjusting. Please advise.
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Posted: Tue Jun 24, 2014 6:41 am |
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Joined: Jun 25, 2013
Posts: 133
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Lancashire
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I'd just nip to your local scrap yard and pick a replacement up cheap enough 
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Posted: Tue Jun 24, 2014 7:05 am |
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Joined: Jun 18, 2012
Posts: 280
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Birmingham
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| luke079 wrote: |
| I'd just nip to your local scrap yard and pick a replacement up cheap enough |
which part do i need and how much do they cost brand new?
I remember replacing the Dipped Beam bulbs 2 months ago. Can replacing bulbs affect allignment? Did I put the bulb the wrong way in even though the bulb looks like its seated properly.
What caused it not to adjust when the tester try to adjust it? Electrical or mechanical?
Can the bulb be adjusted vertically or horizontally or both? Can the actual light output itself can be adjusted like beam power/pattern etc? Or is it just 1 screw that does 1 adjustment?
I got 10 days to get this sorted. 
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Posted: Tue Jun 24, 2014 10:58 am |
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Joined: Apr 14, 2010
Posts: 713
Trade Rating: +2
Location: Gothenburg, Sweden
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| very_452001 wrote: |
I remember replacing the Dipped Beam bulbs 2 months ago. Can replacing bulbs affect allignment? Did I put the bulb the wrong way in even though the bulb looks like its seated properly. |
Yes, , so try undoing the spring clip and remove/and reseat the bulb making sure it seats flat...
| very_452001 wrote: |
What caused it not to adjust when the tester try to adjust it? Electrical or mechanical? |
It's a combo of mechanical and electrical. If mechanical is at the end of its movement, it'll just click over if you turn it further. Check that the electrical adjuster works, but set the mechanical with the electrical in the 0 position so it can be lowered electrically as you add load...
| very_452001 wrote: |
Can the bulb be adjusted vertically or horizontally or both? Can the actual light output itself can be adjusted like beam power/pattern etc? Or is it just 1 screw that does 1 adjustment? |
Both up/down and left/right. 1 screw is for left/right and the other one (by/at the electrical adjuster) is for up/down. Electrical only does up/down.
Beam pattern can't be adjusted. You just move the beam up/down/left/right to position the 'bend' properly.
Can't adjust power/light output other than by changing bulbs. 55/60W is IIRC the max legal for road use. Various brands/models use somewhat different glass/gas mix etc to tickle out more light.
| very_452001 wrote: |
| I got 10 days to get this sorted. |
Start with double checking the bulb seating. Check that the electrical adjuster works and isn't broken for that light... You should hear some slight whirring as someone moves the adjuster knob/wheel and you have your head down by the light , also look for any movement of the reflector.
Worst case, get a new(used) complete assembly and replace - could be that the adjustment tab has broken off from the actual reflector in the assembly... then the reflector might move freely with your fingers as you unseat/reseat the bulb...
Don't touch the screws for the properly aimed one and you can use it as a guide for a rough setting of the problem side.
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| Silvermetallic 2004 206 RC | |
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Posted: Tue Jun 24, 2014 1:35 pm |
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Joined: Jun 18, 2012
Posts: 280
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Birmingham
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| mtempsch wrote: |
| very_452001 wrote: |
I remember replacing the Dipped Beam bulbs 2 months ago. Can replacing bulbs affect allignment? Did I put the bulb the wrong way in even though the bulb looks like its seated properly. |
Yes, , so try undoing the spring clip and remove/and reseat the bulb making sure it seats flat...
| very_452001 wrote: |
What caused it not to adjust when the tester try to adjust it? Electrical or mechanical? |
It's a combo of mechanical and electrical. If mechanical is at the end of its movement, it'll just click over if you turn it further. Check that the electrical adjuster works, but set the mechanical with the electrical in the 0 position so it can be lowered electrically as you add load...
| very_452001 wrote: |
Can the bulb be adjusted vertically or horizontally or both? Can the actual light output itself can be adjusted like beam power/pattern etc? Or is it just 1 screw that does 1 adjustment? |
Both up/down and left/right. 1 screw is for left/right and the other one (by/at the electrical adjuster) is for up/down. Electrical only does up/down.
Beam pattern can't be adjusted. You just move the beam up/down/left/right to position the 'bend' properly.
Can't adjust power/light output other than by changing bulbs. 55/60W is IIRC the max legal for road use. Various brands/models use somewhat different glass/gas mix etc to tickle out more light.
| very_452001 wrote: |
| I got 10 days to get this sorted. |
Start with double checking the bulb seating. Check that the electrical adjuster works and isn't broken for that light... You should hear some slight whirring as someone moves the adjuster knob/wheel and you have your head down by the light , also look for any movement of the reflector.
Worst case, get a new(used) complete assembly and replace - could be that the adjustment tab has broken off from the actual reflector in the assembly... then the reflector might move freely with your fingers as you unseat/reseat the bulb...
Don't touch the screws for the properly aimed one and you can use it as a guide for a rough setting of the problem side. |
Ok great advice, when you say electrical do you mean the headlight adjuster control by the steering wheel? What do you mean by add load?
The screw adjuster on the headlight is for adjusting left and right and there's only 1 screw adjuster?
The reflector is the thing that covers the front part of the bulb in the headlight?
You mean by a new headlight for the worst case scenario or a certain assembly?
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Posted: Tue Jun 24, 2014 2:07 pm |
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Joined: Apr 14, 2010
Posts: 713
Trade Rating: +2
Location: Gothenburg, Sweden
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| very_452001 wrote: |
Ok great advice, when you say electrical do you mean the headlight adjuster control by the steering wheel? What do you mean by add load?
The screw adjuster on the headlight is for adjusting left and right and there's only 1 screw adjuster?
The reflector is the thing that covers the front part of the bulb in the headlight?
You mean by a new headlight for the worst case scenario or a certain assembly? |
Yeah electrical adjustment is the wheel/knob on the dash which adjust the position of the post on the adjuster motor which in turn moves the reflector.
Load = passengers and luggage weighing down the rear...
There are two screws (hex holes, visible from above) One directly in the housing (for left right) and one on the adjuster motor for 'normal' up/down position (before load adjusting) see top rear in this pic:
Reflector - the mirrored cup the bulb sits in/sticks through the back of.
Worst case - headlight
(one of) + adjuster motor, but if the motor is OK it's fairly easy to transplant...
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| Silvermetallic 2004 206 RC | |
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Posted: Tue Jun 24, 2014 2:57 pm |
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Joined: Jun 18, 2012
Posts: 280
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Birmingham
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| mtempsch wrote: |
| very_452001 wrote: |
Ok great advice, when you say electrical do you mean the headlight adjuster control by the steering wheel? What do you mean by add load?
The screw adjuster on the headlight is for adjusting left and right and there's only 1 screw adjuster?
The reflector is the thing that covers the front part of the bulb in the headlight?
You mean by a new headlight for the worst case scenario or a certain assembly? |
Yeah electrical adjustment is the wheel/knob on the dash which adjust the position of the post on the adjuster motor which in turn moves the reflector.
Load = passengers and luggage weighing down the rear...
There are two screws (hex holes, visible from above) One directly in the housing (for left right) and one on the adjuster motor for 'normal' up/down position (before load adjusting) see top rear in this pic:
Reflector - the mirrored cup the bulb sits in/sticks through the back of.
Worst case - headlight
(one of) + adjuster motor, but if the motor is OK it's fairly easy to transplant... |
Yeah what's this part called? Is it called the adjustor motor like you said?:
Can I buy this part separately or do I have to buy the whole headlight?
Also in this pic I can only see 1 white screw. How do you access the other screw?
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Posted: Tue Jun 24, 2014 6:00 pm |
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Joined: Jun 18, 2012
Posts: 280
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Birmingham
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Update:
Now I am really confused 
I adjusted the headlights using the electronic control by the steering wheel and it works. I can see the passenger dipped beam bulb going up and down on all levels including the highest level 0.
Then why the tester saying he cant manually adjust it to go down when I can bring it down with the electronic control?
Whats the point of having manual adjusting screws on the headlights when the driver can adjust them in the car interior?
Doesn't make sense.
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Posted: Tue Jun 24, 2014 6:19 pm |
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Joined: Dec 04, 2012
Posts: 543
Trade Rating: 0
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| very_452001 wrote: |
Update:
Now I am really confused
I adjusted the headlights using the electronic control by the steering wheel and it works. I can see the passenger dipped beam bulb going up and down on all levels including the highest level 0.
Then why the tester saying he cant manually adjust it to go down when I can bring it down with the electronic control?
Whats the point of having manual adjusting screws on the headlights when the driver can adjust them in the car interior?
Doesn't make sense. |
That interior one is for when you've got passengers, as the rear will dip down pointing the nose up. To compensate, the driver uses the switch thing to compensate stopping other drivers being blinded
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Posted: Tue Jun 24, 2014 11:34 pm |
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Joined: Apr 14, 2010
Posts: 713
Trade Rating: +2
Location: Gothenburg, Sweden
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| 20Drift wrote: |
| very_452001 wrote: |
Update:
Now I am really confused
I adjusted the headlights using the electronic control by the steering wheel and it works. I can see the passenger dipped beam bulb going up and down on all levels including the highest level 0.
Then why the tester saying he cant manually adjust it to go down when I can bring it down with the electronic control?
Whats the point of having manual adjusting screws on the headlights when the driver can adjust them in the car interior?
Doesn't make sense. |
That interior one is for when you've got passengers, as the rear will dip down pointing the nose up. To compensate, the driver uses the switch thing to compensate stopping other drivers being blinded |
 -The tester wants the aim to be proper with the electrical adjustment in the 0 position, so that the electrical adjustment can be used to get the beam back down when you're carrying heavy load. Otherwise you couldn't get the beam down , and not blind other road users when you're loaded...
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| Silvermetallic 2004 206 RC | |
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Posted: Wed Jun 25, 2014 4:20 am |
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Joined: Jun 18, 2012
Posts: 280
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Birmingham
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I forgot to mention that the lens on the passenger side headlight is cleaner/whiter/clearer (looks newer) than the driver side headlight lens as the drivers side lens is dingy yellowish/less clearer with age i guess.
Does having 2 different condition lens makes a MOT fail?
Can the difference of lens trick/fool the tester in anyway or effect light path?
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Posted: Wed Jun 25, 2014 6:57 am |
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Joined: Jan 29, 2011
Posts: 6526
Trade Rating: +10
Location: Westhoughton, Lancashire
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| very_452001 wrote: |
I forgot to mention that the lens on the passenger side headlight is cleaner/whiter/clearer (looks newer) than the driver side headlight lens as the drivers side lens is dingy yellowish/less clearer with age i guess.
Does having 2 different condition lens makes a MOT fail?
Can the difference of lens trick/fool the tester in anyway or effect light path? |
It shouldn't do, it will only affect the light output, and that will be minimal.
You could follow this guide and make sure the adjuster is seated properly on the reflector.. You never know, someone may have dicked about with the lights in the past.
Once you have got the adjuster working correctly, you need a wall to help align the headlamp. Ideally to do the job properly you need the correct test equipment, but if you get it somewhere near, then the test station might make the finer adjustments.
In the end it should look something like this
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Posted: Wed Jun 25, 2014 8:56 am |
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Joined: Jun 18, 2012
Posts: 280
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Birmingham
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| macca1411 wrote: |
| very_452001 wrote: |
I forgot to mention that the lens on the passenger side headlight is cleaner/whiter/clearer (looks newer) than the driver side headlight lens as the drivers side lens is dingy yellowish/less clearer with age i guess.
Does having 2 different condition lens makes a MOT fail?
Can the difference of lens trick/fool the tester in anyway or effect light path? |
It shouldn't do, it will only affect the light output, and that will be minimal.
You could follow this guide and make sure the adjuster is seated properly on the reflector.. You never know, someone may have dicked about with the lights in the past.
Once you have got the adjuster working correctly, you need a wall to help align the headlamp. Ideally to do the job properly you need the correct test equipment, but if you get it somewhere near, then the test station might make the finer adjustments.
In the end it should look something like this
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Is the adjuster the metal stick holding the reflector? Is there pics of adjuster/reflector or a diagram showing the assembly as I don't know what is what.
Im sure its on properly cause it was moving up/down last night when I controlled it electronically from inside the car or am I doing something wrong?
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Posted: Wed Jun 25, 2014 9:28 am |
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Joined: Apr 14, 2010
Posts: 713
Trade Rating: +2
Location: Gothenburg, Sweden
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| very_452001 wrote: |
Is the adjuster the metal stick holding the reflector? Is there pics of adjuster/reflector or a diagram showing the assembly as I don't know what is what.
Im sure its on properly cause it was moving up/down last night when I controlled it electronically from inside the car or am I doing something wrong? |
The adjuster is the pin with ball-head sticking out of the adjuster motor unit. It slots into a slot in a, IIRC, round plastic piece which in turn is fastened to the back of the reflector...
Since you see the beam move as you change settings on the adjuster (assuming snoothly both down, back up and back down again) that means the adjuster workers and is attached to the reflector which also moves properly...
As you say one of the lights is newer... Is it the misaligned one that is newer? (sorry, forgot which side you said initially and get terminally confused by the British NS / OS usage, combined w/ that you drive on the wrong side  , anyways)
But if it's the newer one that is misaligned I see 2 more potential sources of the problem:
1) Aftermarket part not quite the same as Pug original
. Had a pair of angel eyes that exhibited the same issue. The post on the adjuster would have needed to be ~5-8 mm longer for it to work properly on those lights (or the actual adjuster mount the same amount further forwards in the light). In the end went with a improvised manual solution using a machine screw, nuts and washers going through a plate covering the adjuster mounting hole.
2) Might your car have been in a collision involving that corner? If so the replaced/reshaped metal might not have ended up back in the exact position, making the light sit pointed slightly upward where it normally would sit level, and the adjuster doesn't have enough range to correct it...
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| Silvermetallic 2004 206 RC | |
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Posted: Wed Jun 25, 2014 11:05 am |
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Joined: Jun 18, 2012
Posts: 280
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Birmingham
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| mtempsch wrote: |
| very_452001 wrote: |
Is the adjuster the metal stick holding the reflector? Is there pics of adjuster/reflector or a diagram showing the assembly as I don't know what is what.
Im sure its on properly cause it was moving up/down last night when I controlled it electronically from inside the car or am I doing something wrong? |
The adjuster is the pin with ball-head sticking out of the adjuster motor unit. It slots into a slot in a, IIRC, round plastic piece which in turn is fastened to the back of the reflector...
Since you see the beam move as you change settings on the adjuster (assuming snoothly both down, back up and back down again) that means the adjuster workers and is attached to the reflector which also moves properly...
As you say one of the lights is newer... Is it the misaligned one that is newer? (sorry, forgot which side you said initially and get terminally confused by the British NS / OS usage, combined w/ that you drive on the wrong side , anyways)
But if it's the newer one that is misaligned I see 2 more potential sources of the problem:
1) Aftermarket part not quite the same as Pug original
. Had a pair of angel eyes that exhibited the same issue. The post on the adjuster would have needed to be ~5-8 mm longer for it to work properly on those lights (or the actual adjuster mount the same amount further forwards in the light). In the end went with a improvised manual solution using a machine screw, nuts and washers going through a plate covering the adjuster mounting hole.
2) Might your car have been in a collision involving that corner? If so the replaced/reshaped metal might not have ended up back in the exact position, making the light sit pointed slightly upward where it normally would sit level, and the adjuster doesn't have enough range to correct it... |
Its moving properly like you said so I don't understand why I failed MOT?
Yes its the misaligned headlight which is the newer one. It looks stock to me no angel lights or anything like that.
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