|
Author
|
Message |
|
|
 Posted: Wed Jun 25, 2014 11:52 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Aug 14, 2011
Posts: 61
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Finland
|
 |
I replaced my aged headlights with Magneti Marelli OEM replacements and they aim too high. Even with electrical adjust set to 0 and manual adjustment as low as it goes (when all the way down, it starts to click). For sure it will fail the MOT this fall, but there's no other way to ajust it but drill the fixing holes larger. Besides, the plastic feels really cheap and when I transfered the motors from the old headlights, both locking clips broke off from the new headlights. Stick with Valeo or original.
| |  |
|
|
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Wed Jun 25, 2014 12:03 pm |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jun 18, 2012
Posts: 280
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Birmingham
|
|
| TelaKeppi wrote: |
| I replaced my aged headlights with Magneti Marelli OEM replacements and they aim too high. Even with electrical adjust set to 0 and manual adjustment as low as it goes (when all the way down, it starts to click). For sure it will fail the MOT this fall, but there's no other way to ajust it but drill the fixing holes larger. Besides, the plastic feels really cheap and when I transfered the motors from the old headlights, both locking clips broke off from the new headlights. Stick with Valeo or original. |
how do i tell if i have official peugeot headlights or not?
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Wed Jun 25, 2014 12:32 pm |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Apr 14, 2010
Posts: 713
Trade Rating: +2
Location: Gothenburg, Sweden
|
|
| very_452001 wrote: |
Its moving properly like you said so I don't understand why I failed MOT?
Yes its the misaligned headlight which is the newer one. It looks stock to me no angel lights or anything like that. |
I don't know the British MOT rules, but the Swedish equivalent wants the lights to be aimed properly (down 1.2% or something like that) with the electrical adjuster in the 0 position. This then allows you to lower the lights further with the electrical adjuster as you add passengers and cargo, dropping the rear and raising the front...
If I was you, I'd probably be looking for a used housing+motor (matching) from a scrappie - and look closely for signs of collision repairs when removing the current unit and putting in the replacement... If there's signs of repairs, odds are that even another unit, working perfectly in another car, might not work any better. If it's not your only available transportation you might want to remove the existing and have a look before buying anything.
If there are imperfect repairs that causes the misalignment, then enlargening mounting holes or drilling new ones, so that the top of the light can be mounted more forward, tilting the light down, might be the only way (short of a bodyshop straightening/correcting the corner)
That can of course lead to not so good alignment to the body panels, but it'd be the cheapest route.
| | |
|
|
|
|
 | |  |
| Silvermetallic 2004 206 RC | |
 | |  |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Wed Jun 25, 2014 1:00 pm |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jun 18, 2012
Posts: 280
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Birmingham
|
|
| mtempsch wrote: |
| very_452001 wrote: |
Its moving properly like you said so I don't understand why I failed MOT?
Yes its the misaligned headlight which is the newer one. It looks stock to me no angel lights or anything like that. |
I don't know the British MOT rules, but the Swedish equivalent wants the lights to be aimed properly (down 1.2% or something like that) with the electrical adjuster in the 0 position. This then allows you to lower the lights further with the electrical adjuster as you add passengers and cargo, dropping the rear and raising the front...
If I was you, I'd probably be looking for a used housing+motor (matching) from a scrappie - and look closely for signs of collision repairs when removing the current unit and putting in the replacement... If there's signs of repairs, odds are that even another unit, working perfectly in another car, might not work any better. If it's not your only available transportation you might want to remove the existing and have a look before buying anything.
If there are imperfect repairs that causes the misalignment, then enlargening mounting holes or drilling new ones, so that the top of the light can be mounted more forward, tilting the light down, might be the only way (short of a bodyshop straightening/correcting the corner)
That can of course lead to not so good alignment to the body panels, but it'd be the cheapest route. |
I dont think there's been a collision botch up repair as this car pass the MOT 1st time last year at the same MOT station by the same tester and during that time I didnt change or modify anything except replacing the dipped beam bulb.
You mean look for a adjuster motor? What do you mean by housing, is it the headlight without the lens?
| | |
|
|
|
|
Last edited by very_452001 on Wed Jun 25, 2014 1:28 pm; edited 1 time in total
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Wed Jun 25, 2014 1:21 pm |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Apr 14, 2010
Posts: 713
Trade Rating: +2
Location: Gothenburg, Sweden
|
|
| very_452001 wrote: |
| I dont think there's been a collision botch up repair as this car pass the MOT 1st time last year at the same MOT station by the same tester and during that time I didnt change or modify anything except replacing the dipped beam bulb. |
Ooookay... Given that, my guesses would go to
1) not seated properly so that the filament isn't in the proper focus spot, or
2) faulty bulb with the filament in the wrong spot inside the bulb, resulting in the same as 1) even when properly seated.
What brand bulbs did you use?
The big name brands have such good QA that it'd be a real longshot (could still be though), but noname/super this/mega that/china specials probably don't...
You could try switching the bulbs between the lights (while parked in front of a wall and make a mark/tape the positions of the beams on the wall before swapping and see what happen. While they're out you could also place them side by side and see if there's any noticeable difference in filament positioning... (and as always, only touch the metal base/connectors - never the glass!)
| | |
|
|
|
|
| | |
| Silvermetallic 2004 206 RC | |
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Wed Jun 25, 2014 2:23 pm |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jun 18, 2012
Posts: 280
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Birmingham
|
|
update:
I took the bulb cover off at the back of the headlight and notice something loose when I press down with my fingers as explained in the following pics:
Is that metal round tip suppose to click in the white circle plastic thing? Cause its not loose on the other headlight and I can see on that good headlight that the metal round tip is in.
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Wed Jun 25, 2014 2:33 pm |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Apr 14, 2010
Posts: 713
Trade Rating: +2
Location: Gothenburg, Sweden
|
|
| very_452001 wrote: |
update:
Is that metal round tip suppose to click in the white circle plastic thing? Cause its not loose on the other headlight and I can see on that good headlight that the metal round tip is in. |
Hard to say, it's been a while since I played with my headlights, but that ball and socket might be a fixed pivot point that holds the reflector in the proper position (together with the 2 adjustment points (up/down and left/right)
and not being connected may well be why the reflector won't point low enough...
Definitely looks like it should be pushed in there...
| | |
|
|
|
|
| | |
| Silvermetallic 2004 206 RC | |
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Wed Jun 25, 2014 5:18 pm |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jun 18, 2012
Posts: 280
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Birmingham
|
|
| mtempsch wrote: |
| very_452001 wrote: |
update:
Is that metal round tip suppose to click in the white circle plastic thing? Cause its not loose on the other headlight and I can see on that good headlight that the metal round tip is in. |
Hard to say, it's been a while since I played with my headlights, but that ball and socket might be a fixed pivot point that holds the reflector in the proper position (together with the 2 adjustment points (up/down and left/right)
and not being connected may well be why the reflector won't point low enough...
Definitely looks like it should be pushed in there... |
Ok I shall try that. I don't seem to have the strength to push it in from a awkward angle so it looks like I have to take the headlight out.
Is there a picture guide on how to take out the headlight on a 206 1.4 8v TU3A Engine 2006?
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Wed Jun 25, 2014 6:28 pm |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 29, 2011
Posts: 6526
Trade Rating: +10
Location: Westhoughton, Lancashire
|
|
Off the top of my head, you remove the trim that is just below the headlamp, sometimes the clips break but they are pennies from the dealer, and then 3 bolts hold the headlamp in place. Only takes about 5 minutes and that includes looking for the tools and walking to the car. I think the tools needed are a flat head screwdriver to remove the rivets for the upper grill, 10mm socket and ratchet for the headlamp bolts, a torx bit, can't remember what size for the screw hidden behind the badge. Might have missed something, been a while since I took a headlamp out.
Use the guide I linked to earlier to remove and replace the adjuster. It might help if you wind it back in a bit while it's out of the headlamp and make sure that when you turn the screw the ball moves, otherwise you will need to take it out again to replace the adjuster.
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Thu Jun 26, 2014 3:22 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jun 18, 2012
Posts: 280
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Birmingham
|
|
| macca1411 wrote: |
Off the top of my head, you remove the trim that is just below the headlamp, sometimes the clips break but they are pennies from the dealer, and then 3 bolts hold the headlamp in place. Only takes about 5 minutes and that includes looking for the tools and walking to the car. I think the tools needed are a flat head screwdriver to remove the rivets for the upper grill, 10mm socket and ratchet for the headlamp bolts, a torx bit, can't remember what size for the screw hidden behind the badge. Might have missed something, been a while since I took a headlamp out.
Use the guide I linked to earlier to remove and replace the adjuster. It might help if you wind it back in a bit while it's out of the headlamp and make sure that when you turn the screw the ball moves, otherwise you will need to take it out again to replace the adjuster. |
Thanks there must be a picture guide on these forums right?
You mean buy a new adjuster motor and replace or keep existing one?
Wheres that link as I cant seem to find it.
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Thu Jun 26, 2014 9:28 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 29, 2011
Posts: 6526
Trade Rating: +10
Location: Westhoughton, Lancashire
|
|
| very_452001 wrote: |
| Thanks there must be a picture guide on these forums right? |
It's self explanatory once you look at the car. Shouldn't need pictures. There may be a guide on here but like you, I can't be bothered searching
| very_452001 wrote: |
| You mean buy a new adjuster motor and replace or keep existing one? |
If the ball doesn't move when you turn the screw, the adjuster will either need replacing or possibly fixing. You may be able to get the worm to catch again. You won't know until it's off.
| very_452001 wrote: |
| Wheres that link as I cant seem to find it. |
Page 1. Links are highlighted in blue
| macca1411 wrote: |
| You could follow this guide and make sure the adjuster is seated properly on the reflector. |
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Thu Jun 26, 2014 9:31 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Apr 14, 2010
Posts: 713
Trade Rating: +2
Location: Gothenburg, Sweden
|
|
Don't see a reason for getting a new adjuster since your's obviously moves - just that your reflector appears to be out of alignment due to that loose ball joint... i wouldn't buy anything until I had the ball joint joined back up and checked how the light falls then.
To remove the light from the car - follow the start of this howto until you see the two bolts holding the bottom of each light. Then disconnect all the electrical connections, undo the 2 lower, and the single bolt at the top...
As the howto says - be prepared to visit your nearest PSA dealer to get a few clips for the strip below the lights. They have a good chance to break as you try to unclip the - but they're cheap....
| | |
|
|
|
|
| | |
| Silvermetallic 2004 206 RC | |
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Thu Jun 26, 2014 12:40 pm |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Aug 14, 2011
Posts: 61
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Finland
|
|
The smaller ball and socket in the picture is the mechanism that tilts the beam sideways, replacing the motor wont do it. It's part of the headlight.
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Thu Jun 26, 2014 1:23 pm |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jun 18, 2012
Posts: 280
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Birmingham
|
|
update:
Yeah got the headlight out and managed to put that metal round tip into the white circle socket. I haven't touch the motor adjuster as you say its already working. Booked MOT retest next Tuesday being confident that this fix will pass the retest. Many thanks for all advice.
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Thu Jun 26, 2014 2:42 pm |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jul 13, 2010
Posts: 1032
Trade Rating: +10
Location: sutton surrey/welwyn garden city
|
|
Pretty sure clipping it back in should have sorted it. I bought some phase 2's off here and when I got them everything was moving inside!
Took a long time and some swearing but I managed to clip everything back together. Hope you get it passed now.
| | |
|
|
|
|
| | |
| You never really learn to swear until you learn to drive | |
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
Membership:
Latest: 
New Today: 0
New Yesterday: 0
Overall: 17130
Online Now [233]:
Visitors: 231
Members: 0
Staff Online Now:
Page Views:
General
Forums Home
Forum FAQ
Search
