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 Posted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 5:42 am |
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Joined: Nov 21, 2012
Posts: 38
Trade Rating: 0
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Hi all my 3 day old ( to me) 206 1.4hdi appears to have a clutch issue. I have mentioned concern over the high biting point in another thread.
However today while attemtping to overtake a slower moving truck, in 4th gear and under acceleration i noticed the engine revs climbing and suddenly shoot from 2k rpm to nearly 3k before dropping to 2k rpm again and then seemed to gain speed fine. The biting point is right at the very top of tge clutch pedal travel, i.e just as your about to take your foot off the pedal.
Ive been told my clutch could well be on its last legs, im just wondering does this clutch really sound bad? I.e its ready to go at any moment. Also how much would an independant garage charge for a clutch kit and change?. Also just out of interest... is my 206 hydraulic or cable driven ? Its a 52plate 1.4 hdi.
Im not entirely sire if this is linked however at low rpm and accelerating there is an audible vibrating metallic noise coming from the front left area. ( sounds like a cv joint that is knackered from classic car experience but im unsure. But that is how it sounds. No groans or clicks etc when on full lock in a carpark. Just accelerating from low revs i.e going up hill at circa 1200rpm and accelerating. Any ideas or things to check?
Thanks in advance
Rob
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Posted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 6:32 am |
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Joined: Dec 26, 2013
Posts: 326
Trade Rating: +1
Location: East London
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The issue regarding the revs going up then down whilst pressing the accelerator is clutch related. Your clutch could be slipping. I believe the 1.4 hdi is hydraulic operating but don't quote me on it.
I paid £290 to have a clutch kit supplied and fitted along with a new clutch cable fitted which I supplied on a 1.1. If your car is cable operated I would change that too. I had a metallic sound coming from the clutch which was a clutch release bearing. It made a noise for about a week and on the day it was booked in to be replaced it had gone.
In my opinion, if your car is your daily driver and you don't have another car I would change it asap.
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| Current: Albi Blue Clio 197
Previous: EZR 1.1 206 Zest 3 5dr | |
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Posted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 6:51 am |
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Joined: Apr 01, 2014
Posts: 668
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Cornwall
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Bite sits at the top . Self adjusts . If it slips then you need a new 1 clutch .
bearings & cable ..
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Posted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 8:28 am |
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Joined: Nov 21, 2012
Posts: 38
Trade Rating: 0
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Oh okay well i'll have a play today and find out if its hydraulic or cable. Where should the bite be naturally. Is it possible that if there is an adjuster mechanism has siezed?
Thanks
Rob
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Posted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 8:49 am |
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Joined: Nov 27, 2010
Posts: 11520
Trade Rating: +10
Location: What's it to you? ? ?
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New 3 part clutch kit needed.
1.4 HDI is hydraulic set up.
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| Toyota C-HR GR Sport 2.0 Hybrid with JBL & Alcantara packs. | |
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Posted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 11:38 am |
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Joined: Nov 21, 2012
Posts: 38
Trade Rating: 0
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Thanks fella,
Best bet a valeo and by 3 piece you mean bearing, friction plate and pressure plate?.
While doing this is it worth replacing the slave cylinder?
If doing it myself how long should it take and is there anything else i need?
Thanks
Rob
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Posted: Mon Dec 22, 2014 4:50 am |
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Joined: Feb 16, 2010
Posts: 440
Trade Rating: +2
Location: Devon
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I done the clutch on mine a while back, replaced with a Valeo unit. Also changed the 'sleeve' the release bearing runs on.
Slave cylinder is external and not necessary to change (unless its leaking)
Would say a couple hours really.
My personal preference is to remove the radiator as it is quite tight lifting the box back in place.
Only things that will hold you up is the bottom balljoints (can be hard to split from the hub) and the intermediate bearing in the lower engine mount housing sometimes take persuasion to move.
Couple to 3 hours you should have the box on the ground.
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Posted: Mon Dec 22, 2014 4:56 am |
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Joined: Nov 21, 2012
Posts: 38
Trade Rating: 0
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Okay thanks fella, is it really needed to change the tube ? I have about an hour ago ordered a valeo 3 piece clutch kit, slave cylinder and bought genuine peugeot gearbox fluid. We should hopefully be doing it on friday or saturday so anything else i may need or do i have everything to do the job?
Thanks
Rob
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Posted: Mon Dec 22, 2014 4:33 pm |
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Joined: Nov 21, 2012
Posts: 38
Trade Rating: 0
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Little bit of an update.
Today we picked up the 3 piece clutch kit ( valeo) with the pressure, friction plates and release bearing and the blue alignment tool. We did order a slave cylinder however this evening we have been offered a house and money is now seeming a little tight.
Would i be right in thinking the clutch fluid shares the brake fluid resevoir ?
I don't think there is a leak of fluid from the clutch system.
Just to be 100% sure its not leaking fluid inside onto the friction plate.
Leaking fluid would onto the friction plate would not result in a high biting point would it?
Leaking fluid on to the friction plate would make the clutch slip in all gears not just 4th/5th under acceleration/load would it?.
Thanks
Rob
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Posted: Tue Dec 23, 2014 5:32 am |
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Joined: Feb 16, 2010
Posts: 440
Trade Rating: +2
Location: Devon
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The 'tube' isn't nessecy if its grooved then it would make the release bearing harder to slide on. I fitted a new one as the car had done 165k miles on the clutch.
Seems like you should have everything there, maybe a new copper washer for the gearbox drain plug, would be annoying if that leaked after you've filled with new oil.
| old-muggins wrote: |
Little bit of an update.
Just to be 100% sure its not leaking fluid inside onto the friction plate.
Leaking fluid would onto the friction plate would not result in a high biting point would it?
Leaking fluid on to the friction plate would make the clutch slip in all gears not just 4th/5th under acceleration/load would it?.
Thanks
Rob |
High biting point shows that the friction plate is getting thin.
Your nigh on correct there in thinking if you had a fluid leak the clutch would be slipping in every gear. The seals that would allow this is Crankshaft seal or the input shaft seal on the gearbox.
You'll be able to inspect it when the gearbox is out, if its all dry in the gearbox area, fit the clutch and bolt everything back up. Be gentle with driveshaft seals, I didn't replace mine and they're not leaking now but I've heard of people pinching them and then leaking.
Good Luck
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Posted: Tue Dec 23, 2014 6:07 am |
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Joined: Nov 21, 2012
Posts: 38
Trade Rating: 0
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Okay thanks for backing this up just want to make sure im barking up the tree as its my first 206.
If there was a fluid leak id also be losing brake fluid i think as it shares the same resevior i assume.
Well fingers crossed! The seals are okay and we dont nip anything on reassembly.
This morning we have picked up the slave cylinder ( no point in fitting a clutch kit and not doing the slave cylinder... should it fail in a few months id hate to have a contaminated friction plate and have to mess aroubd again so just makes sense to get it all done at once :).
Thanks again fella 
Rob
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Posted: Tue Dec 23, 2014 10:44 am |
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Joined: Jun 19, 2010
Posts: 1600
Trade Rating: +4
Location: South Bucks
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Clutch and brakes share same reservoir. Brake feed is lower so you lose the clutch first!
Check the flexible pipe running over the gearbox to the slave while you at it. Ours had rubbed and worn through and we lost the clutch. While it's all out, it's easier to change as it runs from the master cylinder to the slave in one piece. It's dead easy to change though!
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| Down to just the 1.4 HDi. Cayman Green 2.0i CC sold. | |
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Posted: Tue Dec 23, 2014 11:20 am |
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Joined: Nov 21, 2012
Posts: 38
Trade Rating: 0
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Thanks for the info gazza and i will check the rubber hose my old dolomite had been rubbing and had an aorline fracture/split and caused a pin p***k leak so i'll check it all over. Least when its done, its done and should 't have any issues for a good while.
Thanks
Rob
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