|
Author
|
Message |
|
|
 Posted: Tue Jun 09, 2015 1:51 pm |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jun 01, 2015
Posts: 21
Trade Rating: 0
|
 |
Is this a daft idea?
Having read the variations on a theme for splitting the bottom ball joint, how about this?
Remove pinch bolt and cut through the wishbone close to the ball joint with trusty grinder and cutting disk.
Am I missing something?
| |  |
|
|
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Tue Jun 09, 2015 2:13 pm |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 24, 2010
Posts: 2596
Trade Rating: +17
Location: North West Wales
|
|
And how will you get the ball joint out the hub once you've done that? You'll have next to nothing to leaver on, and what you will have will be spinning under the ball joint.
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Tue Jun 09, 2015 2:43 pm |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Posts: 2720
Trade Rating: +6
Location: UK
|
|
Bar, chain, nut and bolt and a block of wood. Its not a hard job really.
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Tue Jun 09, 2015 2:58 pm |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jun 01, 2015
Posts: 21
Trade Rating: 0
|
|
Is it not the tension exerted by the bushes in the wish bone fighting the force of the coil spring which makes it difficult to remove.
By cutting the wish bone the ball joint would only be held by its taper?
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Tue Jun 09, 2015 3:17 pm |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Posts: 2720
Trade Rating: +6
Location: UK
|
|
It's the bushes on the inner wishbone that pushes the ball joint up. Using a bar and chain you can pull the balljoint down easier.
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Wed Jun 10, 2015 10:11 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 16, 2010
Posts: 440
Trade Rating: +2
Location: Devon
|
|
two people make it easier.
Long bar in over the wishbone from the front, lever back near against the subframe/chassis
one person push the hub in-towards the car, the other push down on the bar.
bit of lubrication on the ballpoint will help.
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 8:40 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jun 01, 2015
Posts: 21
Trade Rating: 0
|
|
Its getting the grinder tonight, got to be easier
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 9:17 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jun 20, 2012
Posts: 1171
Trade Rating: +1
Location: West Country
|
|
Has anyone tried the ball joint splitter tool?
To put it back:
First put the road wheel back on
then carefully jack the car down and try not to get unwanted camber (and eyes on the driveshaft!)
keep most weight still on jack
then just push the wheel around to position the ball joint in (maybe put under the wheel some pair of carton sheets + WD40 between them for better slide?)
Haven't tried, but sounds like this then could become one-man's job without carrying a scaffolding pole and a mate around
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 11:49 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Posts: 2720
Trade Rating: +6
Location: UK
|
|
You won't get the hub over the ball joint. The spring from the suspension pushs past the ball joint. The only way to do it properly is to pull the ball joint down and move the hub over it.
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 3:14 pm |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jun 20, 2012
Posts: 1171
Trade Rating: +1
Location: West Country
|
|
You're right, so will just resort to ball split and spring compressing tools then
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Sat Jun 13, 2015 12:33 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 11, 2015
Posts: 41
Trade Rating: 0
|
|
| Sim wrote: |
Has anyone tried the ball joint splitter tool?
To put it back:
First put the road wheel back on
then carefully jack the car down and try not to get unwanted camber (and eyes on the driveshaft!)
keep most weight still on jack
then just push the wheel around to position the ball joint in (maybe put under the wheel some pair of carton sheets + WD40 between them for better slide?)
Haven't tried, but sounds like this then could become one-man's job without carrying a scaffolding pole and a mate around |
Thats pretty much the way I did it.
Took 3 hours total to do both sides (and that includes a break for beer)
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Sun Jun 14, 2015 7:58 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jun 01, 2015
Posts: 21
Trade Rating: 0
|
|
Cut the wishbone with the grinder and the ball joint just fell apart.
Job all done now, moderate amount of bad language but it could have been worse.
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Tue Jun 16, 2015 9:59 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jun 19, 2010
Posts: 1600
Trade Rating: +4
Location: South Bucks
|
|
Gently open up the hub with a cold chisel, lay a long piece of 3x2 just under the body floor, and over the arm, so it juts out the front of the car ... and stamp on it hard. Works every time!
FPITA to get the new one back usually ...
One day when I get a MIG welder I'll make a tool that screws onto the end of the front mounting bolt where it pivots, hooks over the arm and passes under the hub .. then I can stand on that and pull the arm down. Get it right and I should be able to control the new arm to let it up to locate back in the hub .. this assumes the Pug's last as long as I do!
| | |
|
|
|
|
 | |  |
| Down to just the 1.4 HDi. Cayman Green 2.0i CC sold. | |
 | |  |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Tue Jun 16, 2015 12:09 pm |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 08, 2010
Posts: 7045
Trade Rating: +5
Location: In the garage
|
|
I saw a big tool in last month's Car Mechanics magazine purpose made for popping wishbones and ball joints out of hubs.
| | |
|
|
|
|
| | |
| 2001 GTi 138, Bilstein Sprint dampers, H&R springs, 21mm Peugeot Sport torsion bars, 22mm rear ARB, Peugeot Sport Group A wishbones, 283mm discs, Goodridge stainless hoses, Maniflow 304 grade 4-2-1 2.5" manifold and system, 200 cell cat, Richard Longman head, 45mm Jenvey throttle bodies, 9.5mm TB spacers, 90mm air horns, Jenvey throttle linkage, Jenvey fuel rail, Aeromotive and Goodridge fuel fittings and braided hose, ITG sausage filter, Radtec custom radiator, Piper Ultimate Road cams, Piper vernier pulleys, Omex 600 ECU. Saxo electric PAS pump, Vibra Technics engine mounts. Samco coolant hoses, TTV steel flywheel, 4.76 final drive ratio, 307 CC 180 ratios. 2019 BMW 530i. 2017 Mercedes C300 convertible. | |
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Tue Jun 16, 2015 12:47 pm |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Aug 04, 2011
Posts: 1343
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Swindon
|
|
Cutting the arm isn't new; I suggested that in the "how to" several years ago. Just be careful not to cut to close to the ball joint and as you get near the end of grinding be careful that the arm doesn't spring, pinch the grinding disc and shatter it.
The ball joint is not on a taper so once the pinch bolt is removed, load released and hub spread (old screwdriver or chisel) it will just fall out.
I now have a 6ft length of scaffold pole and find that the weight of the removed wheel placed on the end of that is enough to drop the ball joint out while I give a helping wiggle.
Having done both methods the long pole is preferred.
Getting it all lined up to go back in - that's another story and I wish there was a garaunteed "how to" that works every time.
| | |
|
|
|
|
| | |
| Morris 1000, Austin 1100, Escort Mk2, Fiat Mirafiori, Alfa 33, Alfa GT Junior, Alfasud, Alfetta GTV (2x), Alfa 164 3.0 V6, Alfa 164 2.0, Alfa 75 V6, Alfa 156 2.4 (diesel remapped 200bhp), Alfa 147 GTA (3.6 295bhp), Alfa 159 (diesel remapped 245bhp 300ft.lbs @ 2500rpm)
Why isn't my daughter an Alfaholic? | |
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
Membership:
Latest: 
New Today: 0
New Yesterday: 0
Overall: 17130
Online Now [85]:
Visitors: 84
Members: 0
Staff Online Now:
Page Views:
General
Forums Home
Forum FAQ
Search
