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Forums › The Car › 206 Problems › Steering wheel airbag wiring problem :(


 
 

Steering wheel airbag wiring problem :(
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Deano69
PostPosted: Sat Nov 07, 2015 5:12 pm Up
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Well basically, was replacing my grubby worn steering wheel for a new one this week..
Removed the airbag, undone wiring, the centre bolt etc

But wheel didn't wanna come off

But after giving it too much wellie it suddenly came off and took the airbag plug with it,
snapping it clean off the end of the 3 ribbon type cable Sad

anyone know if this can be easily replaced ?

Does it connect up behind the dash or sommat ?


Now I got an airbag light, due to it not being connected Sad

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LeeThr
PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2015 7:19 am Up
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Posts: 2596
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New comm2000 unit, it's part of the unit.
 


gogs_macaulay wrote:
LeeThr wrote:
One Hundred million bazillion gatrillion pink rupee's
Shut it u stupid little f**k, what's the point in posting in all my treads being such a c***? Least I can afford a gti180, and to get the cam belt done!

So apparently everyone knows my financial situation? If I wanted a 180 I would have bought a 180 simples Smile

The garage
2003 - 206 GTi 138 - Moonstone Blue
2003 - 406 Coupé 2.2 HDi SE - Hyperion Blue
2000 - 206 2L HDi D-Turbo ECO - Cherry Red
1999 - 306 GTi-6 - Blue (haven't worked out if it's Nile or China yet)
1987 - 205 GTi 1.9 - Graphite Gray

I must be mad.....
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mtempsch
PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2015 1:05 pm Up
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Location: Gothenburg, Sweden


Deano69 wrote:
But wheel didn't wanna come off

But after giving it too much wellie it suddenly came off and took the airbag plug with it,
snapping it clean off the end of the 3 ribbon type cable Sad


Too late for you now, but for future reference for someone in the same situation with a stubborn steering wheel - just loosen the nut, don't remove it completely, until you've broken it (the wheel) free. If it suddenly comes loose while you're applying force, the nut will catch it before it moves too far...

Silvermetallic 2004 206 RC
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Deano69
PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2015 5:39 pm Up
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I know, mtempsch Sad

Thought of it as soon as I had done it.
It`s not often you remove a steering wheel is it.

Can I not get the next section of wire from a breakers or sommat ?

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LeeThr
PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2015 6:51 pm Up
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No, it's a complete comm unit, the ribbon cable doesn't detach from it.
 


gogs_macaulay wrote:
LeeThr wrote:
One Hundred million bazillion gatrillion pink rupee's
Shut it u stupid little f**k, what's the point in posting in all my treads being such a c***? Least I can afford a gti180, and to get the cam belt done!

So apparently everyone knows my financial situation? If I wanted a 180 I would have bought a 180 simples Smile

The garage
2003 - 206 GTi 138 - Moonstone Blue
2003 - 406 Coupé 2.2 HDi SE - Hyperion Blue
2000 - 206 2L HDi D-Turbo ECO - Cherry Red
1999 - 306 GTi-6 - Blue (haven't worked out if it's Nile or China yet)
1987 - 205 GTi 1.9 - Graphite Gray

I must be mad.....
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Deano69
PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2015 5:14 pm Up
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Location: London & Kent


hmmm, not good Sad

I read something on here about switching over the `airbag` bit of the comms with another one.

We also have a 2004 1.1 with a knacked cyclinder head.

It does not have the same stalk featues (fogs) but I read somewhere on here the airbag bit can be separated from the rest of the stalks


any advice on that anyone ???

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FrankAteMyName
PostPosted: Tue Nov 10, 2015 6:47 am Up
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Sorry I somehow managed to delete my post...

Basically I managed to knacker the ribbon cable on my Comm2000 unit the other week. From what you say, yours broke at the airbag end? I have picked up another knackered comm unit from my local scrappy for 20 quid and I'm goint to attempt to frankenstein the two together.

This 'airbag bit' of the comm unit that you refer to is (correct me if I'm wrong here) often referred to as the clock spring. If you remove the wheel and pop off the round black cover in the centre of your comm unit you will more than likely be met with a hefty length of ribbon cable. The other end of that is removable from the rest of the comm unit with 2 screws. If my thinking is correct then this should be interchangable between models and then bish bash bosh I can pass my MOT. Hopefully.

I'll try my fix when I get back from work today and let you know how it goes. If all is well I will post a guide with photos on here.

My cars:
206 Urban 1.4 8v 3dr '56 - China Blue - 70k Miles - Climate control retrofit, cruise control retrofit - Dead (Breaking)

206 GLX 1.4 8v 3dr '03 - 100k Miles - Obsidian Black - Black masked headlights + front fogs, Faster sunroof, Colour matched exterior trim - SOLD

206 2.0 GTI 138 '03 - 58k Miles - Onyx Black - 17" 180 Alloys - Current

206 2.0 GTi 138 '03 - 120k Miles - China Blue - New Track Toy (ON THE WAY)
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Deano69
PostPosted: Tue Nov 10, 2015 1:25 pm Up
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thanks for you input Smile

i`ll be interested to know how it goes

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FrankAteMyName
PostPosted: Tue Nov 10, 2015 4:20 pm Up
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Didn't get time to give it a crack today Sad but I'll commit to doing it tomorrow. And let you know what happens .
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FrankAteMyName
PostPosted: Thu Nov 12, 2015 2:48 am Up
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Good news!

I figured the cheapest way to fix my issue was to replace the clock spring. To do this you are going to either need to order a new one (for some reason everyone wants to rip you off) or to collect one from a donor Comms unit. I chose a comm unit with a broken shell on it because it was cheap and cheerful from the local scrappy.

Always disconnect the battery and allow the capacitors to discharge before working on an airbag to avoid a nasty surprise. Just go make a brew while you wait Smile

Airbags are tricky and can be quite dangerous. If you have any concerns or feel that this is beyond your skill then you should refer the work to a proffessional.

1. Remove steering wheel (You know how to do this already so no need to explain)
2. Remove steering column shrouding - There should be 2 torx screws in the underside of the lower half and then it all pulls apart
3. you should be left with the Comms unit exposed - the thing with the wiper and indicator stalks
4. There are 4 plugs on the lower back of the comm unit. Make a note of which goes where and unplug them all
4. Reach behind it and you'll find a bare metal clamp where the unit attaches to the steering column. Loosen that off but no need to remove it completely
5. There's a clip at the top and bottom of where the Comm unit attaches to the steering column - lift them both away from the column and the unit should slide off towards you
6. On the front of the comm unit where the 3 little ribbon cables come out of there is a circular plastic plate secured with 3 little tabs. Pull those back to access the clock spring - a big coil of ribbon cable.
7. In the centre there is a sprung piece. Without this your indicators won't cancel so look after it. I can't quite remember how to remove it but it should be reasonably intuitive (I'll update this when I get home).
8. Pay careful attention to where the ribbon cable feeds through the outer wall of its housing (this will be important later)
9. There is a shiny black piece of plastic covering the exit port for the ribbon cable. With a bit of wiggling and maybe some persuasion from a small flathead screwdriver this will come free. You are now left with exposed ribbon cable where it feeds into the plastic.
10. On the lower back of the unit there are 2 small phillips screws - remove them both and keep them safe
11. The outer casing of the comm unit is in 4 main pieces - Top shell, bottom shell, that circular plate from earlier and the piece that joins the ribbon cable to the 2 outermost plugs from the back of the unit. Using a small flat head screwdriver or similar persuading tool you want to remove this fourth piece. If you look at the plastic that the 2 screws from earlier go through you will realise it is in 2 pieces - separate them.
12. you want to remove this entire piece. They can be a bit stiff sometimes but they come out eventually. Don't worry about any internal connections because they are made with springs and as such come apart without breaking.
13. If all has been done correctly you will now have the ribbon cable, the black circle and the long plastic piece. Repeat these steps on the donor unit and now you can swap them over.
14. To reassemble it's basically just the reverse of how you took it apart. I found it easiest to tightly wrap the cable around the centre of the plastic circle and slot the excess through the channel in the wall. Then you can push it in to be held in place by the tabs.
15. pop the long plastic piece into place but be careful not to damage the pins on the sprung metal in the holders (you'll see what I mean). I found it was easiest to push the "legs" into place first. I used a reasonable amount of force (firmly tapping with the handle of a screwdriver) to get them in place and the rest worked itself out from there. Make sure you put the two screws back in.
16. stick the shiny black plastic back in place but be careful not to damage the pins.
17. This part is important. Be VERY gentle here to avoid undoing all your good work. Gently turn the black circle from one limit to the other (it can only go so far one way before ripping out the ribbon cable and the other way would cause the 'spring' to hit the walls and reach the limit of expansion.
18. Find a rough centre point of the spring's limits and leave it there.
19. Once you're satisfied that everything moves as it should then stick the sprung centrepiece back into place.
20. plug in the 4 plugs you removed earlier.
21. Slide the unit back into place on the steering column until it is sitting in place.
22. Tighten the metal clamp back up.
23. Reattach the shrouding
24. Put the three connectors back through the port in the steering wheel and sit the wheel back on its spline. You may find that the black circle locks in the upright position. If it does this then push in the spring in the middle and it should continue to rotate.
25. Bolt the steering wheel back on
26. Reconnect the airbag exactly as it was before. It's colour coded and as such idiot proof.
27. Refit the airbag with a satisfying shove and click.
28. Reconnect your battery
29. Enjoy the return of your airbag and the disappearance of the annoying light on the dash.

I'm not very good at guides and the like but I hope that helps with your problem.

Hit me up if you need anything

My cars:
206 Urban 1.4 8v 3dr '56 - China Blue - 70k Miles - Climate control retrofit, cruise control retrofit - Dead (Breaking)

206 GLX 1.4 8v 3dr '03 - 100k Miles - Obsidian Black - Black masked headlights + front fogs, Faster sunroof, Colour matched exterior trim - SOLD

206 2.0 GTI 138 '03 - 58k Miles - Onyx Black - 17" 180 Alloys - Current

206 2.0 GTi 138 '03 - 120k Miles - China Blue - New Track Toy (ON THE WAY)
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Deano69
PostPosted: Thu Nov 12, 2015 6:05 pm Up
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Thanks for taking the time out to reply in detail .
That's quite a lot to take in...

I`ll have to read that a few times and have it handy when I attempt to do it.

cheers Smile

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Sim
PostPosted: Fri Nov 13, 2015 2:01 am Up
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Posts: 1171
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Location: West Country


and if it works, let's put this into HOW-TOs sections:)
2.0 HDi, year 2000 (E's restin')
Red GTi 180, year 2004 (VorTechS' sEXy Beast (being) remasteRed)
Blue GTi 180, year 2004 (in hibernation after endless driving fun in 2019, queued for "cambelt in tight spaces")
Missus' 1.6 16v CC, year 2007 (L-plates to P-plates to NO-plates, but now she wants powwer:))
£50 1.4 HDi, year 2002 (seatless transporter, SORNed, rust needs patching)
EV
Jag S(crapped)- & X-Type
GTC VXR (sold)
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FrankAteMyName
PostPosted: Fri Nov 13, 2015 6:09 am Up
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Posts: 175
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Location: Tewkesbury


It worked for me so I'll take some photos tonight and write up a better how to Smile
My cars:
206 Urban 1.4 8v 3dr '56 - China Blue - 70k Miles - Climate control retrofit, cruise control retrofit - Dead (Breaking)

206 GLX 1.4 8v 3dr '03 - 100k Miles - Obsidian Black - Black masked headlights + front fogs, Faster sunroof, Colour matched exterior trim - SOLD

206 2.0 GTI 138 '03 - 58k Miles - Onyx Black - 17" 180 Alloys - Current

206 2.0 GTi 138 '03 - 120k Miles - China Blue - New Track Toy (ON THE WAY)
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