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Forums › The Car › 206 Problems › 206 1.4 LX '98 plate Rad Fan / Temp issue...


 
 

206 1.4 LX '98 plate Rad Fan / Temp issue...
Forum Index206 Problems
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fribby
PostPosted: Fri Apr 01, 2016 6:10 am Up
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Hi Folks,

Just joined up here, recently bought my daughter a nice little 206 for her first car. Unfortunately it has developed the overheating / temp gauge jumping issue.

Up to now, I have fitted a new Radiator (the old one was almost shot anyway), new Thermostat, flushed the whole system. New Temp sensor, new Radiator Fan Switch, and a new cooling fan as the old one had seized.

The engine is now cooling fine, but when sat idling the fan isn't coming on and it throws up the Temp Gauge fault.

Looked all over online, it seems a common issue and the likely suspects are the low speed relay and/or the fan resistor. However, I just canot find them on the Car! I've check loads of photos online and wiring diagrams but none seem to match the vehicle. There are no relays on or near the fan housing, the cabling just goes back to the under bonnet fuse box!

The fan does start on full speed when I link out the Rad Fan switch, so I know it is at least getting power.

Any suggestions on where to look or any ideas would be much appreciated.

Cheers, fribby Smile

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FrankAteMyName
PostPosted: Fri Apr 01, 2016 6:27 am Up
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Location: Tewkesbury


Hello and Welcome!

First off it would be useful if you could supply details of the car:

Year, engine, mileage, pre or MUX, A/C or no

As for the location; you have to remove the front bumper to get to them really. they are attached to the fan panel behind a cover.

My cars:
206 Urban 1.4 8v 3dr '56 - China Blue - 70k Miles - Climate control retrofit, cruise control retrofit - Dead (Breaking)

206 GLX 1.4 8v 3dr '03 - 100k Miles - Obsidian Black - Black masked headlights + front fogs, Faster sunroof, Colour matched exterior trim - SOLD

206 2.0 GTI 138 '03 - 58k Miles - Onyx Black - 17" 180 Alloys - Current

206 2.0 GTi 138 '03 - 120k Miles - China Blue - New Track Toy (ON THE WAY)
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Edward
PostPosted: Fri Apr 01, 2016 11:18 am Up
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Don't these have two coolant sensors as well? Radiator fan switch? What's that? The ECU is the switch.
2001 GTi 138, Bilstein Sprint dampers, H&R springs, 21mm Peugeot Sport torsion bars, 22mm rear ARB, Peugeot Sport Group A wishbones, 283mm discs, Goodridge stainless hoses, Maniflow 304 grade 4-2-1 2.5" manifold and system, 200 cell cat, Richard Longman head, 45mm Jenvey throttle bodies, 9.5mm TB spacers, 90mm air horns, Jenvey throttle linkage, Jenvey fuel rail, Aeromotive and Goodridge fuel fittings and braided hose, ITG sausage filter, Radtec custom radiator, Piper Ultimate Road cams, Piper vernier pulleys, Omex 600 ECU. Saxo electric PAS pump, Vibra Technics engine mounts. Samco coolant hoses, TTV steel flywheel, 4.76 final drive ratio, 307 CC 180 ratios. 2019 BMW 530i. 2017 Mercedes C300 convertible.
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fribby
PostPosted: Sat Apr 02, 2016 10:42 am Up
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Hi Fellas,

As it is a '98 plate I believe it is pre-mux and it is the non AC model, with about 50K miles on the clock. I've had all the front stripped off and there is nothing there at all, just a fan and it's connector...

Edward, yes this does have two sensors, the one in the Thermostat manifold which is an RTD temp sensor and one in the radiator which is a switch.

From tracing it out it looks like the fan only has one speed and that is controlled by this Rad switch, according to the datasheet I finally managed to find for it this should activate at 92-97degC. As yet I've been unable to get it to come on despite the temp gauge jumping up into the red (from 90 to red in a flash)...

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mtempsch
PostPosted: Sat Apr 02, 2016 1:33 pm Up
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fribby wrote:


From tracing it out it looks like the fan only has one speed and that is controlled by this Rad switch, according to the datasheet I finally managed to find for it this should activate at 92-97degC. As yet I've been unable to get it to come on despite the temp gauge jumping up into the red (from 90 to red in a flash)...

A '98 would deffo be pre-plex. Looks like the diagram agrees with you. Fused 12V continuously to the fan motor, negative lead through the switch to ground.

If it runs when you bridge the switch - then the switch, new or not, is suspect. Could test it by pulling it and putting it in boiling water and see if it closes (multimeter/test light)

Silvermetallic 2004 206 RC
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fribby
PostPosted: Sun Apr 03, 2016 11:02 am Up
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Thanks for that, the fan does start when shorted, taken the switch out and placed in boiling water and it isn't switching. Went and bought a second switch and that isn't switching either! Either 2 dodgy switches or I'm not getting enough heat into it...
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