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 Posted: Sat Jul 02, 2016 11:54 am |
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Joined: Apr 16, 2015
Posts: 17
Trade Rating: 0
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Hello,
Radiator fan in my 2002, 1.4HDi 206 is not running automatically.
It started with low coolant light warning (with right coolant level) at two different temperature region but no overheating (may simply be due to cold weather and short runs)
In past temperature needle used to sit at about 75C but now the temperature goes to 80/90C when standing in traffic. It comes a little bit down when the traffic is moving.
I notice that the fan is not running when the car is hot (even at 90C). It, however, runs when the AC is on or when I remove wire connector from coolant temperature sensor (green).
I have already changed the coolant temperature sensor and cleaned the expansion bottle.
Any suggestions on the next move?
Thanks.
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Posted: Sun Jul 03, 2016 7:55 am |
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Joined: Aug 11, 2015
Posts: 175
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Tewkesbury
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The fan has 2 settings. Does it run on high? Usually when temps top 90/100 the fan will go on high.
Might be worth having a good search on the forum as well, seen lots of posts like this
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| My cars:
206 Urban 1.4 8v 3dr '56 - China Blue - 70k Miles - Climate control retrofit, cruise control retrofit - Dead (Breaking)
206 GLX 1.4 8v 3dr '03 - 100k Miles - Obsidian Black - Black masked headlights + front fogs, Faster sunroof, Colour matched exterior trim - SOLD
206 2.0 GTI 138 '03 - 58k Miles - Onyx Black - 17" 180 Alloys - Current
206 2.0 GTi 138 '03 - 120k Miles - China Blue - New Track Toy (ON THE WAY) | |
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Posted: Sun Jul 03, 2016 8:17 am |
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Joined: Apr 16, 2015
Posts: 17
Trade Rating: 0
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Thanks for your reply.
Frankly I never gave it a chance to pass beyond 90C and started AC which then brought temperature down.
What if fan is working on high setting? and what if is not working on either?
Does AC actuation bypass low speed relay? if not., should I assume that the low speed relay is fine?
Thanks
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Posted: Sun Jul 03, 2016 8:22 am |
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Joined: Aug 11, 2015
Posts: 175
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Tewkesbury
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When AC is on, does it turn the fan on low speed?
Have you tried checking fuses?
Should be low speed when AC is on and high speed when it gets above 90
The relays have been known to break in all sorts of ways. Have a poke around wit a multimeter is the best choice IMO
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| My cars:
206 Urban 1.4 8v 3dr '56 - China Blue - 70k Miles - Climate control retrofit, cruise control retrofit - Dead (Breaking)
206 GLX 1.4 8v 3dr '03 - 100k Miles - Obsidian Black - Black masked headlights + front fogs, Faster sunroof, Colour matched exterior trim - SOLD
206 2.0 GTI 138 '03 - 58k Miles - Onyx Black - 17" 180 Alloys - Current
206 2.0 GTi 138 '03 - 120k Miles - China Blue - New Track Toy (ON THE WAY) | |
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Posted: Sun Jul 03, 2016 10:54 am |
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Joined: Apr 16, 2015
Posts: 17
Trade Rating: 0
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Thanks.
Yes, the fan does run at all engine temperatures when the AC is turned on. I believe it runs on low speed but I have not seen the fan working on two different speeds so I can not differentiate.
No, I have not checked fuses. Any particular one you you are referring to?
I do have multi-meter and shall try to check voltages at different points.
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Posted: Sun Jul 03, 2016 2:32 pm |
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Joined: Aug 11, 2015
Posts: 175
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Tewkesbury
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I don't have the fuse list to hand at the moment but there is one in the car's handbook if you have it.
You'd know about it when high speed kicks in - It makes a racket.
The fan resistor is cheap if you're really stumped. Does require you to remove the front bumper IIRC
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| My cars:
206 Urban 1.4 8v 3dr '56 - China Blue - 70k Miles - Climate control retrofit, cruise control retrofit - Dead (Breaking)
206 GLX 1.4 8v 3dr '03 - 100k Miles - Obsidian Black - Black masked headlights + front fogs, Faster sunroof, Colour matched exterior trim - SOLD
206 2.0 GTI 138 '03 - 58k Miles - Onyx Black - 17" 180 Alloys - Current
206 2.0 GTi 138 '03 - 120k Miles - China Blue - New Track Toy (ON THE WAY) | |
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Posted: Mon Jul 04, 2016 11:15 am |
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Joined: Apr 16, 2015
Posts: 17
Trade Rating: 0
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Thanks.
Fuses are all OK.
By your description, yes fan does run at slow speed when the AC is turned on. I have not allowed the car to overheat to test high speed.
Even with faulty/ blown resistor, should the fan still run at slow speed when AC is turned on?
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Posted: Mon Jul 04, 2016 12:59 pm |
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Joined: Apr 14, 2010
Posts: 713
Trade Rating: +2
Location: Gothenburg, Sweden
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| Searcher wrote: |
Even with faulty/ blown resistor, should the fan still run at slow speed when AC is turned on? |
It's the line with the resistor in that lets the fan run at lower speed.
If broken open circuit, low speed would not work, if shorted (resistor bypassed) then it would also run at full speed (if current draw/fuses allows, else fuse would blow)
When it goes to high speed the feed with the resistor is disconnected and another feed without a resistor is connected (2 separate relays)
If multiplexed, then diagram 3 here
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| Silvermetallic 2004 206 RC | |
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Posted: Tue Jul 05, 2016 8:55 am |
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Joined: Apr 16, 2015
Posts: 17
Trade Rating: 0
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Thanks. I shall try to analyse the wiring.
Since the fan is running on low speed with AC on, I assume resistance is not blown (correct me if I am wrong) and the problem is more likely within:
1. Coolant level sensor (the fact that I am still getting false low coolant level signals)
2. Fan relays
3. Wiring, or
4. the ECU
Thanks
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Posted: Tue Jul 05, 2016 10:43 am |
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Joined: Apr 14, 2010
Posts: 713
Trade Rating: +2
Location: Gothenburg, Sweden
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| Searcher wrote: |
Thanks. I shall try to analyse the wiring.
Since the fan is running on low speed with AC on, I assume resistance is not blown (correct me if I am wrong) and the problem is more likely within:
1. Coolant level sensor (the fact that I am still getting false low coolant level signals)
2. Fan relays
3. Wiring, or
4. the ECU
Thanks |
Yep, since it runs at low speed with the AC, the resistor, relay and control from the ECU for that path is OK.
Since it doesn't run on high speed,
either the ECU doesn't see that it should (sensor & ass. wiring,
ECU doesn't output the signal to the relay (ECU),
or the ECU signal doesn't reach the relay (wiring),
or the relay doesn't flip (relay),
or the wiring from the relay to fan is borked (or the +12V supply to the relay (wiring, fuse...))
The relay should have
constant +12V on pin3 (switch terminal),
switched/ignition +12V on pin1 (one of the coil terminals (coming from engine compartment fuse box)
ground on pin2 when active (provided via the ECU)
Pin5 is output to fan (other switch terminal), +12V when active
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| Silvermetallic 2004 206 RC | |
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Posted: Tue Jul 05, 2016 10:59 am |
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Joined: Jan 29, 2011
Posts: 6526
Trade Rating: +10
Location: Westhoughton, Lancashire
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Turn off the air-con, turn off the interior blowers and let the engine get to temperature. Leave it idling longer till the temp gauge rises to about 100 and see if the high speed fan comes on.
At the moment you have no idea if it is faulty or not so don't waste time messing with other parts until you have identified if a fault exists.
| Searcher wrote: |
| I have not allowed the car to overheat to test high speed. |
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Posted: Tue Jul 05, 2016 11:23 am |
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Joined: Apr 16, 2015
Posts: 17
Trade Rating: 0
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Thanks. I will do that.
The reasons why I think there is some fault somewhere are:
false Low coolant level warning (despite the fact that the coolant level is right)
Temperature reaching 90 (that never happened before).
But if you think I should check the high temperature fan first then I can do that. Is there any potential harm to gasket?
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Posted: Tue Jul 05, 2016 2:39 pm |
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Joined: Jan 31, 2016
Posts: 5
Trade Rating: 0
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I have a 2005 1.4 Sport which has cooling fan issues. Neither high or low fan speeds were operative. I checked through this forum and found some good advice. I stripped out the wiring and found corroded relays and a broken wire on the high speed side. I have repaired the wiring and installed new relays, resistor and coolant temperature sensor. If I switch the relay with leads from the battery I can make the low and high speed fan operate. With the oil temperature gauge showing 90 degrees, the high speed fan operates. The low speed fan does not operate at all, even with A/C switched on. I understand that this might be due to insufficient gas pressure in the A/C system but would have thought the slow fan should still run if coolant temperature was high enough. Any thoughts please ?
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Posted: Sat Aug 06, 2016 7:02 pm |
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Joined: Jul 01, 2016
Posts: 21
Trade Rating: 0
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Thermostat opens at around 89-90oC, low speed fan kicks in around 97oC which is just before the next marker up from 90 on the temp gauge, and the high speed fan kicks in just before the red which I gather is 110oC ish.
90oC is normal operating temp, I dont think you are letting the coolant get hot enough to test the fan automatic kick in.
Ive had a lot of problems with my low fan speed recently, it turned out to be the resistor, cage type thing held in by a 10mm bolt at the botton of the fan housing just to the left, I brought a cheap one off ebay, £10 which lasted about 4 weeks, so just brought one from Pug for £25, so far so good.
you can get to all the parts without removing the bumper, I removed the cover for the relays, the resistor and the fan itself without removing the bumper, you just need a socket with a long extension, and remove the top piece of trim which goes around the bottom of the lights and has the peugeot badge on it, this is just 3 torx bolts and 2 clips which you can just pull out with your nails over by each light.
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Posted: Mon Aug 08, 2016 9:00 am |
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Joined: Aug 01, 2016
Posts: 248
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Essex
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| Seanie280672 wrote: |
Thermostat opens at around 89-90oC, low speed fan kicks in around 97oC which is just before the next marker up from 90 on the temp gauge, and the high speed fan kicks in just before the red which I gather is 110oC ish.
90oC is normal operating temp, I dont think you are letting the coolant get hot enough to test the fan automatic kick in.
Ive had a lot of problems with my low fan speed recently, it turned out to be the resistor, cage type thing held in by a 10mm bolt at the botton of the fan housing just to the left, I brought a cheap one off ebay, £10 which lasted about 4 weeks, so just brought one from Pug for £25, so far so good.
you can get to all the parts without removing the bumper, I removed the cover for the relays, the resistor and the fan itself without removing the bumper, you just need a socket with a long extension, and remove the top piece of trim which goes around the bottom of the lights and has the peugeot badge on it, this is just 3 torx bolts and 2 clips which you can just pull out with your nails over by each light. |
I just had to deal with one of those (got one now laying around somewhere)... It is indeed quite easy to get to yes.
I'd sell it to you (or give it to you), but I am not sure it works or not... So don't want to take any chances.
Location (photos, made a blue box to help you find it easily):
And (don't be afraid, I had to completely take it all out)... there is it with the box removed:
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| Current project: Ciri
Silver 206cc - 2.0 - 2001 | |
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