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Forums › The Car › 206 Problems › 2.0 206CC Clutch Issue


 
 

2.0 206CC Clutch Issue
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Rubyoptics
PostPosted: Wed May 09, 2018 9:34 am Up
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Hi all, I am the incredibly (my wife says worryingly so) proud owner of a 2003 2.0 206 CC. This is my first car (I'm 37 years old, guess that what a life on submarines does for you!) and bought the car in December. Overall, it seems to have been a very well cared for example, but as on any car this age there have been a few niggles here and there.

The one I would like to ask your advice on is the clutch. In January as i was stuck in traffic, the clutch pedal went dead with a snapped clutch cable (I assume?) I got this repaired and the shop did a great job. After the repair the clutch pedal felt really tight and smooth, with great 'feel'.

We are now in May and i have an intermittent problem. Sometimes the clutch pedal feels very...stiff for want of a better word. There is also an audible squeak or groan, like a rusty spring kinda sound, when i depress the clutch pedal. This sound comes and goes with the stiffness. There seems to be no discernible pattern for when it does this (engine hot/cold, after driving a short distance/long distance, outside temperature or weather conditions etc).

I am due to drive from my home in Poland to the UK in July and would rather not be in constant fear of being left stranded again! Could anyone give me some advice as to what this problem could be and how I could fix it?

As i said, I'm new to car ownership and haven't really worked on them before, but I'm mechanically minded and certainly don't mind getting my hands dirty!

Many thanks for any help you can give me.

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VorTechS
PostPosted: Wed May 09, 2018 12:33 pm Up
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I've very very recently had a similar issue to this (as in the last two weeks!), and if your 'biting point' is high up the pedal then like me you may have two problems:

1) The clutch slave cylinder could be leaking and needs replacing. It might not be something noticable but if you can get to it and slide back the dust cover you might find some fluid drips out. This could be resulting in air getting into the system causing the pedal to become stiffer.

2) You need a new clutch kit. The friction material is wearing away, and eventually you will struggle to get the clutch engaged properly. If you depress the clutch pedal very very lightly, if it's vibrating, you're in 'danger' of this happening imminently. You might also need to replace a triangular (clutch plate guide?) part as that gets sheared (probably what the noise you are hearing if it was anything like mine!).

 

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Rubyoptics
PostPosted: Wed May 09, 2018 1:40 pm Up
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Thank you for your reply VorTechS. Please forgive my ignorance, but do I have to get under the car in order to check the slave? I did do a quick online check for any pictures showing the location but they weren't very clear.

I'm not sure what would classify as having a high bite point as I have limited experience to be able to compare it to. I would say that it begins to bite after about an inch, maybe an inch and a half of pedal travel if that helps at all?

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VorTechS
PostPosted: Wed May 09, 2018 2:04 pm Up
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Rubyoptics wrote:
Thank you for your reply VorTechS. Please forgive my ignorance, but do I have to get under the car in order to check the slave? I did do a quick online check for any pictures showing the location but they weren't very clear.

Yep, I haven't found any pictures showing it for a 206. We'll have to sort that out. Under the car is definitely easier to see it, but make sure you're to the side of it before sliding back the cover (or make sure you are wearing suitable eye gear)!

Rubyoptics wrote:
I'm not sure what would classify as having a high bite point as I have limited experience to be able to compare it to. I would say that it begins to bite after about an inch, maybe an inch and a half of pedal travel if that helps at all?

After our initial clutch change, and bleed, the biting point was very close to the floor (arguably too low, but hey). I still have to replace my slave cylinder, and since air has gotten back into the system the biting point is very much near the top of the pedal travel. I'll be replacing it (hopefully me anyway!) on Friday, so will try and get a some pictures to give you an idea.

One thing I've gleaned off the interweb about this job, is beware the seal which can easily be missed when changing the cylinder!

 

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gazza82
PostPosted: Wed May 09, 2018 3:50 pm Up
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Our 2.0 CC had a cable operated clutch .. so double-check what you have!
Down to just the 1.4 HDi. Cayman Green 2.0i CC sold.
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MrBSI
PostPosted: Wed May 09, 2018 4:37 pm Up
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Type of clutch mechanism depends both on which gearbox it is & also what side the steering wheel is fitted.
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gazza82
PostPosted: Wed May 09, 2018 5:06 pm Up
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I'll second VorTechS's comment about the guide plate ... ours came out in several mangled bits ...

Rubyoptics's CC is lhd

Down to just the 1.4 HDi. Cayman Green 2.0i CC sold.
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Edward
PostPosted: Thu May 10, 2018 5:36 am Up
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Is the car left or right hand drive?
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gazza82
PostPosted: Thu May 10, 2018 8:50 am Up
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Edward wrote:
Is the car left or right hand drive?


LHD ... as in my post above. I assume then that it is probably hydraulic?

Down to just the 1.4 HDi. Cayman Green 2.0i CC sold.
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Rubyoptics
PostPosted: Thu May 10, 2018 1:48 pm Up
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As Gazza says, it's LHD. I really am sorry for my ignorance in these matters as I appreciate it makes your lives harder trying to help. Is there an easy way I can check whether I have a hydraulic or a cable operated clutch? It 'feels' as if it's cable operated but i realise that isn't by any means a definitive answer!
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VorTechS
PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2018 8:20 am Up
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Sorry for the delay getting the picture to you, various things have conspired to prevent us from doing the clutch work any earlier than last night. From under the car, if you look at the front of the gearbox you should see a view like this:

 


The bit pretty much dead centre in between the extension bar and the large silver bolt is the clutch slave cylinder. If you pull the rubber boot back, you might find that some fluid drips out in which case the cylinder needs replacing. (It might be possible just to whip it out and put a new seal in, something I'd like to investigate at some point)

 

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gazza82
PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2018 9:56 am Up
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There is also a hose underneath the battery tray ... on our 1.4 this rubbed on the gearbox and eventually developed a small leak .. which one day became a much larger leak and sprayed brake fluid all over the 'box. Luckily the brake reservoir holds fluid when the clutch half is empty!
Down to just the 1.4 HDi. Cayman Green 2.0i CC sold.
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Rubyoptics
PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2018 9:51 pm Up
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Thank you so much guys. I should have the car up on stands over the weekend so I'll get a good look and report back!
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