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 Posted: Sat Jan 15, 2011 8:58 am |
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Joined: May 15, 2010
Posts: 50
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Manchester
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Posted: Sat Jan 15, 2011 9:12 am |
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Joined: Nov 27, 2010
Posts: 11520
Trade Rating: +10
Location: What's it to you? ? ?
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Cut the clips with pliers / side cutter's etc.
You can use hose clip's to replace them but make sure there galvanised type hose clips due to the location.
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Posted: Sat Jan 15, 2011 9:31 am |
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Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Posts: 561
Trade Rating: +2
Location: South Wales
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there is away to remove them properley! cant rember how without seing one! all you need tho is a pair of chnky pliers to squeeze it together sum how (fogotton) and it should simply come off!
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Posted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 12:09 am |
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Joined: Aug 06, 2010
Posts: 38
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Australia
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Hey,
I'm about to attempt to remove this assembly...how did you get teh clamps off in the end? I'm having the same issue as you...
Was your leak from the small return pipe or the main big one in your pic?
Cheers
Rob.
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| Peugeot 206 XT
Peugeot 206 GTi
Nissan 300zx Twin Turbo | |
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Posted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 3:34 am |
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Joined: Feb 17, 2012
Posts: 147
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Coventry
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Flat head screw driver in the crimped bit, twist and the clamp 'should' release (depending on condition etc).
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| 2004 206 GTi 180: 207.9BHP, 183.1 ft/lbs | |
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Posted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 11:55 am |
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Joined: Feb 08, 2010
Posts: 7045
Trade Rating: +5
Location: In the garage
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I'd go for the screwdriver method too.
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| 2001 GTi 138, Bilstein Sprint dampers, H&R springs, 21mm Peugeot Sport torsion bars, 22mm rear ARB, Peugeot Sport Group A wishbones, 283mm discs, Goodridge stainless hoses, Maniflow 304 grade 4-2-1 2.5" manifold and system, 200 cell cat, Richard Longman head, 45mm Jenvey throttle bodies, 9.5mm TB spacers, 90mm air horns, Jenvey throttle linkage, Jenvey fuel rail, Aeromotive and Goodridge fuel fittings and braided hose, ITG sausage filter, Radtec custom radiator, Piper Ultimate Road cams, Piper vernier pulleys, Omex 600 ECU. Saxo electric PAS pump, Vibra Technics engine mounts. Samco coolant hoses, TTV steel flywheel, 4.76 final drive ratio, 307 CC 180 ratios. 2019 BMW 530i. 2017 Mercedes C300 convertible. | |
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Posted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 1:51 pm |
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Joined: May 15, 2010
Posts: 50
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Manchester
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This was a while ago now, IIRC because of the position of the clip I couldn't get much leverage with a screwdriver - any that have a small enough head to get in the crimp start to bend before you achieve much. So i used a pair of pliers to pull on the crimp and move it away from the filler neck then cut through with a hacksaw - only took a few mins. If you have some bolt cutters or good pliers you could probably cut it straight off.
For info, it takes some serious pushing to get the new rubber joint on. It has two parts an inner and outer. The inner seems to be a harder compound. I seated it on the filler neck first and then onto the tank. This required using a large screwdriver very carefully to help seat the inner section. I also covered the open tank and filler neck connections with kitchen foil to prevent dirt etc falling in while working.
After all that it didn't cure the leak  It was in fact a small nick in the return breather pipe where it had been rubbing on the body/ suspension. So I had to change this out which is much more of a pain as you have to drop the fuel tank off its retaining bolts.
Is your return breather made of a hard black plastic or rubber? The original on my car was very cheap looking hard plastic but the new replacement was rubber and much better quality. I think the plastic one may be more prone to failure.
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Posted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 5:33 pm |
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Joined: Aug 06, 2010
Posts: 38
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Australia
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It's hard to tell. I was stuck my hand under there as it was leaking to try and feel where the leak was coming from but I'm not 100% sure. I'm suspecting it's the return pipe as well because it's around the back of that large clamp we were talking about...where I can't see.
The return pipe on mine is made of a soft rubber which I would have thought wouldn't crack but as you say, it may have rubbed against a sharp edge of metal on the body of the car...who knows...
Can you use any rubber tubing to replace it? I called my Peugeot spare parts dealer and they don't have that section of piping available anymore...
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Posted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 2:55 am |
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Joined: Feb 17, 2012
Posts: 147
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Coventry
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It needs to be decent spec because it has fuel going through it. Some rubber compounds are corroded and will leak again in a short space of time. Speak to Samco or Venair as they supplied me with braided fuel lines which have a life time gaurantee against leaks/ corrosion.
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| 2004 206 GTi 180: 207.9BHP, 183.1 ft/lbs | |
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Posted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 4:28 pm |
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Joined: May 15, 2010
Posts: 50
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Manchester
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Yeah it is a real pain to diagnose exactly which part has failed because everything just ends up covered in petrol when it leaks.
I expect it would be possible to replace it with any hose of the correct diameter that is specifically rated for carrying petrol. Most motor factors or certain hardware shops should be able to supply or suggest where you might get this. Only concern is the rubber breather pipe is fixed in a very specific shape that follows the contours of the tank and plastic guard. I imagine re-fitting a standard hose might be abit more difficult but I wouldn't think impossible. If you do go down this route possibly consider either some smaller hose clips or tie wraps just to make sure its very secure at each end.
Surprising the OEM hose is not still available. What year and model is your car?
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Posted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 5:16 pm |
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Joined: Aug 06, 2010
Posts: 38
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Australia
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Yeah, I'll have to see what I can do...
How hard is it to lower the fuel tank?
I'm in Australia, so the part availability is probably a little different to you guys in the UK.
My car is a '99 1.6 XT
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Posted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 6:54 am |
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Joined: Nov 27, 2010
Posts: 11520
Trade Rating: +10
Location: What's it to you? ? ?
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| NiGHTS wrote: |
How hard is it to lower the fuel tank?
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Support the tank & disconnect everything from it.
Undo the 2 nuts to remove the fuel tank strap.
Then there should be another 2 fixings to undo.
Drop the tank down.
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| Toyota C-HR GR Sport 2.0 Hybrid with JBL & Alcantara packs. | |
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Posted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 8:35 am |
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Joined: May 15, 2010
Posts: 50
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Manchester
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Exactly as Mr BSI said, just to add:
the handbrake cables and outers run under the tank and so will need to be disconnected and un-clipped to lower the tank.
You should be able to get the tank low enough to access all of the breather without disconnecting the fuel lines - just unclip them to provide some slack. Make sure you disconnect the pump and fuel sender from above though.
I waited until the fuel level was v low before removing the tank to reduce weight/spillage.
The four bolts holding the tank are recessed so you will need a deep socket - 13mm (i think but please double check)
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Posted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 8:37 am |
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Joined: Nov 27, 2010
Posts: 11520
Trade Rating: +10
Location: What's it to you? ? ?
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| James_sinovi wrote: |
The four bolts holding the tank are recessed so you will need a deep socket - 13mm |
They where on my 206 when I replaced the broken tank strap earlier in the week 
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| Toyota C-HR GR Sport 2.0 Hybrid with JBL & Alcantara packs. | |
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Posted: Sun Feb 26, 2012 1:45 am |
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Joined: Aug 06, 2010
Posts: 38
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Australia
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Sounds like a bit of a b***h job...but oh well, needs to be done.
What shits me is I was just about to put the car up for sale...then this happens. Grrr...
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| Peugeot 206 XT
Peugeot 206 GTi
Nissan 300zx Twin Turbo | |
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