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 Posted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 4:49 am |
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Joined: Aug 17, 2011
Posts: 908
Trade Rating: +18
Location: welshpool, mid wales
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My gti had the cambelt changed at 60k it is now on 85k, i am taking the engine out to fit it into another gti and want to change the cambelt, tensioner and pump but have only ever done a cambelt on an 8v vaux engine so am unsure how to do it. Are there special tools required?
Have searched on here for a how to and found one but the pics have been lost.
there's no info in any manuals either for this.
If the belt looks ok and there's no sign of leaks around the water pump will it be ok to leave it?
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Posted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 4:52 am |
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Joined: Feb 10, 2010
Posts: 4014
Trade Rating: +2
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there's no point in leaving it if the engine is out, peace of mind and all that.
I reckon you will need the usual locking tools but I dont acutally know this.
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Posted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 4:52 am |
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Joined: Feb 24, 2010
Posts: 2596
Trade Rating: +17
Location: North West Wales
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I would change it whilst the engines out just for peace of mind. I know the 180 is a ballache but not sure about the 138s.
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Posted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 4:53 am |
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Joined: Aug 17, 2011
Posts: 908
Trade Rating: +18
Location: welshpool, mid wales
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Can you get away with using two 6mm drill bits to lock the cams? And is the other tool for locking the crank pully?
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Posted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 4:56 am |
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Joined: Feb 10, 2010
Posts: 4014
Trade Rating: +2
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I know there isnt any tricky VVT to worry about like on the 180 so I guess you could just use some drill bits to lock it off (not sure what size) but again, i dont know this for sure.
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Posted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 5:01 am |
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Joined: Aug 17, 2011
Posts: 908
Trade Rating: +18
Location: welshpool, mid wales
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In my mind i would remove the covers and align the pullys with the timing marks then lock them in position.
I have heard people using 6mm bits to lock the cams just could do with an image of the crank pully locking tool so i can get a mate to make one up for me.
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Posted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 5:39 am |
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Joined: Aug 17, 2011
Posts: 908
Trade Rating: +18
Location: welshpool, mid wales
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Posted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 6:37 am |
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Joined: Jun 12, 2011
Posts: 457
Trade Rating: +7
Location: Hertfordshire
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If the engine your changing the belt on is a EW10J4 then it looks like its the right procedure
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Posted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 6:44 am |
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Joined: Aug 17, 2011
Posts: 908
Trade Rating: +18
Location: welshpool, mid wales
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Are all the gti 137/138 engines ew10j4?
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Posted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 6:45 am |
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Joined: Feb 10, 2010
Posts: 4014
Trade Rating: +2
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Yep
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Posted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 6:51 am |
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Joined: Aug 17, 2011
Posts: 908
Trade Rating: +18
Location: welshpool, mid wales
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So i can use that how to then. Im getting a set of the locking tools of a friend 
On the how to i have found it says about repositioning the flange??? 
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Posted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 7:23 am |
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Joined: Apr 13, 2010
Posts: 189
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Leeds
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The crank position on earlier models is determined on the belt wheel. On later models you use a tool that goes into the crank through the back of the block.
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| GTI 138 facelift - Runabout
335d M Sport - Cruiser | |
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Posted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 7:50 am |
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Joined: Jun 19, 2010
Posts: 1600
Trade Rating: +4
Location: South Bucks
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I did ours with two bolts to hold the cams in position .. and a guide/how-to on this forum. I even spoke to a local peugeot specialist who confirmed that his "special locking kit" consisted of two bolts!
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| Down to just the 1.4 HDi. Cayman Green 2.0i CC sold. | |
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Posted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 7:56 am |
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Joined: Aug 17, 2011
Posts: 908
Trade Rating: +18
Location: welshpool, mid wales
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I did think of using bolts or allen keys. As long as they are tough and fit i cant see why they wont work. Does anyone no what repositioning the flange means?
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Posted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 8:03 am |
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Joined: Jun 19, 2010
Posts: 1600
Trade Rating: +4
Location: South Bucks
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The how-to I used is here ... unfortunately all the pics have been deleted as they were links. 
I think the wording might still be a help!
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| Down to just the 1.4 HDi. Cayman Green 2.0i CC sold. | |
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