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 Posted: Sat May 12, 2012 4:38 am |
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Joined: Feb 08, 2010
Posts: 3262
Trade Rating: +18
Location: Plymouth
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As alot of people will remember I have an issue with my 206 where when the engine is quite warm the engine warning light comes on with a loss power for 2 seconds and then sometimes stalls when the car comes to a halt.
The following has been done to try find out why and cure the problem but with no success
replaced icv
ecu checked for error codes
mobile auto electrician brought in to look at car
throttle body removed and cleaned
icv removed and cleaned
switches/sensors checked and cleaned
new coilpack fitted
picked car up today after all the above was done, after 30mins of driving in the car the warning light came on but the engine did not stall when I had to stop and was still responsive until I got home, where I park at home I have to drive into a turning, stop, reverse back around the corner by 2metres then drive forward so I can park up outside my house and be facing the right way down the road.
When I stopped to reverse, the warning light came on again, the revs dropped and could hear it was struggling to pick up the revs and the engine soon cut out, started it up again without giving it any gas, this time the rev needle was on the 1st indicator above the 0revs until i gave it some gas and it went upto 6000rpm and after a few seconds the revs dropped right down and the engine cut out.
I parked the car and sat there with the engine running, the engine would idle normally, but then less than a minute the engine would die without warning, you can start it again and it leave it, again for under a minute and it would cut out.
The garage that has been looking at the car have said if they replace the throttle switch it might cure it but they can't say for definite. How do you know if the ecu is faulty? Just curious as to why there is no code showing because the mechanic said, if the engine warning light comes on 3 times within a short time it should register a code.
Really need some expertise on this issue because the car is undriveable at the moment and unless the problem is solved the temptation to sell it is growing more and more
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Last edited by MattyP on Fri May 25, 2012 12:54 pm; edited 3 times in total
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Posted: Sat May 12, 2012 6:02 am |
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Joined: Aug 01, 2011
Posts: 390
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Bath UK
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Intermittent faults are always difficult but I'd be looking for an electrical fault which goes open circuit when the engine gets warmer. A thermal problem, something that may even make the ECU lose power because more often if there's no fault code ever being registered then the ECU may not have been "live" at the time to record it
What could cause that?
Quite a list but
Main battery neg to engine earth
ECU connections
A component shorting to ground at temperature
Fault within ECU
??still a guessing game
Garage should hook up and watch running data as car warms up to spot what happens and work on that otherwise they're just changing stuff and hoping (at your expense). Find the fault and then fix the fault. Even just hooking up a voltmeter to the cigar lighter would give a clue if you have electrical power problems when the fault occurs
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Posted: Sat May 12, 2012 8:52 am |
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Joined: Mar 13, 2012
Posts: 239
Trade Rating: +1
Location: Spalding lincolnshire
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i had exactly that with a vectra i once owned.Turned out to be the cam belt worn, which was jumping about and knocking the sensors.
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Posted: Sat May 12, 2012 9:01 am |
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Joined: Feb 08, 2010
Posts: 3262
Trade Rating: +18
Location: Plymouth
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I hope not and it shouldn't be as my cambelt was changed that not long ago
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Posted: Sat May 12, 2012 9:13 am |
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Joined: Feb 08, 2010
Posts: 10151
Trade Rating: +12
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cam position sensor
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Posted: Sat May 12, 2012 9:24 am |
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Joined: Oct 23, 2011
Posts: 32
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Scotland
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Cam position sensor +1
What was the outcome???
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Posted: Sat May 12, 2012 9:33 am |
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Joined: Feb 08, 2010
Posts: 3262
Trade Rating: +18
Location: Plymouth
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| Gti180Mac wrote: |
Cam position sensor +1
What was the outcome??? |
I can tell the garage it could be cam position sensor
at the moment after the car being in the garage since tuesday its still not sorted
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Posted: Sat May 12, 2012 10:01 am |
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Joined: Feb 08, 2010
Posts: 7045
Trade Rating: +5
Location: In the garage
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Car will drive pretty much normally without the cam sensor plugged in!
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| 2001 GTi 138, Bilstein Sprint dampers, H&R springs, 21mm Peugeot Sport torsion bars, 22mm rear ARB, Peugeot Sport Group A wishbones, 283mm discs, Goodridge stainless hoses, Maniflow 304 grade 4-2-1 2.5" manifold and system, 200 cell cat, Richard Longman head, 45mm Jenvey throttle bodies, 9.5mm TB spacers, 90mm air horns, Jenvey throttle linkage, Jenvey fuel rail, Aeromotive and Goodridge fuel fittings and braided hose, ITG sausage filter, Radtec custom radiator, Piper Ultimate Road cams, Piper vernier pulleys, Omex 600 ECU. Saxo electric PAS pump, Vibra Technics engine mounts. Samco coolant hoses, TTV steel flywheel, 4.76 final drive ratio, 307 CC 180 ratios. 2019 BMW 530i. 2017 Mercedes C300 convertible. | |
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Posted: Sat May 12, 2012 10:04 am |
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Joined: Feb 08, 2010
Posts: 10151
Trade Rating: +12
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| Edward wrote: |
| Car will drive pretty much normally without the cam sensor plugged in! |
what about crankshaft sensor then?
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Posted: Sat May 12, 2012 11:01 am |
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Joined: Aug 01, 2011
Posts: 390
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Bath UK
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I'd expect a fault code to be logged if there was a problem with either cam or crank sensor. With a crank sensor fault then you'd have to wait until it cooled right down again before it would start and very often doesn't hot start at all
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Posted: Sat May 12, 2012 11:37 am |
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Joined: Feb 08, 2010
Posts: 3262
Trade Rating: +18
Location: Plymouth
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the engine starts 1st time everytime i have had the fault, could it be a temperature sensor?
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Posted: Sat May 12, 2012 12:17 pm |
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Joined: Feb 08, 2010
Posts: 3262
Trade Rating: +18
Location: Plymouth
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The garage did say it may be the TPS and have ordered a new 1 @ £123+vat but just found this and it describes some of the faults i've been experiencing
www.buzzle.com/article...ensor.html
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Posted: Sat May 12, 2012 1:04 pm |
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Joined: Feb 08, 2010
Posts: 10151
Trade Rating: +12
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could be; but i would have though you will be able to check that via PP2000; through live data logging you can check the pedal position.
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Posted: Sat May 12, 2012 1:56 pm |
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Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Posts: 2505
Trade Rating: +19
Location: West mids
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Could you not of got a 2nd hand throttle body and tested it before ordering a brand new one?
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Posted: Sat May 12, 2012 2:05 pm |
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Joined: Feb 08, 2010
Posts: 3262
Trade Rating: +18
Location: Plymouth
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I haven't paid for anything yet, the garage has had my current tb out of the car and cleaned and it is fine. but having read from the net, symptoms of a faulty TPS it is sounding more and more like that is the problem
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