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 Posted: Sat Jan 19, 2013 3:39 pm |
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Joined: Aug 07, 2012
Posts: 59
Trade Rating: 0
Location: leeds
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car is a 2005 1.6 hdi gti. i was wondering if there was a how any where to show me how to take the dpf off the car? i was thinking about cleaning it out to start with, or getting it smashed out? or even getting a replacment pipe made to replace it? any advice.
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Posted: Sat Jan 19, 2013 5:38 pm |
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Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Posts: 2720
Trade Rating: +6
Location: UK
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If you get rid of the dpf, you also need it turned off in the bsi, or you'll get a fault code. Plenty of company's do it. Worth it as well, biggest problem on that engine.
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Posted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 4:36 am |
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Joined: Aug 07, 2012
Posts: 59
Trade Rating: 0
Location: leeds
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yeh i have read that. The main thing is working out how to remove it. I take it the dpf has two sensors on it? are these for pressure before and after the dpf? what would you do with these if you put a straight through pipe on instead?
the car itself is great. loads of power and imaculate. we have had it a year and a half with no problems so i am after keeping it that way.do you know of a guide?
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Posted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 5:20 am |
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Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Posts: 2720
Trade Rating: +6
Location: UK
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Look for a member called ghost or something similar on here, he's had it done.
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Posted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 5:29 am |
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Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Posts: 3666
Trade Rating: +59
Location: Scotland
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| Steve206 wrote: |
| Look for a member called ghost or something similar on here, he's had it done. |
Pretty sure he also had EML faults after having it done.
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| '98 Nile Blue 306 GTi 6
'04 Obsidian Black 206 GTi 138 | |
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Posted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 7:13 am |
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Joined: Nov 27, 2010
Posts: 11520
Trade Rating: +10
Location: What's it to you? ? ?
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| Steve206 wrote: |
| biggest problem on that engine. |
Just one of the many 
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| Toyota C-HR GR Sport 2.0 Hybrid with JBL & Alcantara packs. | |
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Posted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 7:56 am |
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Joined: Sep 23, 2012
Posts: 37
Trade Rating: 0
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usually the pipe straight after the turbo is removed and has the 1st part knocked out then refitted, or you can buy a straight through pipe which also acts as a de-cat for about £150?
the sensors are then un plugged and taped up to stop dirt etc getting in them if they are ever needed in the future if they bring the regulation back in.
then the ecu needs to be remaped to sort out fuelling etc because the exhaust outlet is now obviously alot more free flowing, and at the same time have the dpf disabled and the regeneration counters reset.
usually once its all removed alot of people have problems with the dual mass flywheel because the engine can then produce alot of extra torque it seems to cause the car to feel like the clutch is slipping, apparently there is an upgrade or downgrade depending which way you look at it to swap this for a single mass flywheel or heavy duty clutch which can handle more torque if you mention it to the company you use that you are worried about the clutch slipping or the dual mass flywheel problems they are reducing the amount of torque the car produces after the remap to try and combat this problem.
hope that helps? im going to be getting my 206 hdi gti done soon but at the moment to stop the regeneration once a week or 2 weeks i take the car for a good hard drive to burn the soot off the catalyst.
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Posted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 11:43 am |
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Joined: Aug 07, 2012
Posts: 59
Trade Rating: 0
Location: leeds
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I have seen some info (can't remember exactly though) about later 206s having better flywheels and clutches compared to eary one, and the replacments for the early ones are now the same as the later ones. something to do with peugeot getting loads of problems with in the first few years of using the dmfs at as little as 10-20k. i believe they were replaced with better dmfs around 2003/2004.
you don't have to get remep when you have the dpf removed though, so you can stay with the same power if you like or go with a mild tune (125bhp) or a more aggresive tune (145bhp), but as you say they give a lot more torque per £ than the bhp gain. i would stick with 125bhp if i wanted a remap but for now they are nippy enough!
the main reason i believe the clutch slips is because i have been told the first gear power restriction is no longer there after the remap hense the most destructive gear for damage to the drive parts.
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Posted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 11:44 am |
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Joined: Aug 07, 2012
Posts: 59
Trade Rating: 0
Location: leeds
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one more thing, do the 2005 dpfs seperate or are they a single unit? maybe 3/4 long drill holes down the middle will make it better with out the risk of fault codes?
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Posted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 11:46 am |
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Joined: Aug 07, 2012
Posts: 59
Trade Rating: 0
Location: leeds
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| Lecktorious wrote: |
| Steve206 wrote: |
| Look for a member called ghost or something similar on here, he's had it done. |
Pretty sure he also had EML faults after having it done. |
where did he have it done? i don't want to end up going to the smae place, rs in leeds or mas performance seem like the best option.
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Posted: Fri Jan 25, 2013 3:12 pm |
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Joined: Aug 07, 2012
Posts: 59
Trade Rating: 0
Location: leeds
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any more info on this?
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Posted: Mon Feb 04, 2013 5:00 am |
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Joined: Oct 05, 2012
Posts: 367
Trade Rating: 0
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Touch Wood - I had my DPF removed and ECU modified for £450 in Essex 3 days after I bought it - much to my disappointment and amusement to others on here.
I have had no issues with it since. No white smoke, no slipping clutch.
I've covered 7000 miles in 4 months and regularly get 60-68mpg depending how I drive.
The guy at the time told me there are 3 different pieces of software people use to modify the ECU and sometimes there are issues if it is not the correct one. This may be the cause of other people's problems if the correct software has not been used.
There is a company in Manchester I contacted before I found one in Essex. They are all around the same price. I did seek mechanical advice before I had it removed and couldn't find an issue.
If you have a straight through pipe fitted in its place and you remove the CAT, of course you'll 'free' up more power from the freer flowing gases and I imagine that's the other causes of the problems.
I don't do short journeys as my minimum is 395 miles a week and sometimes reach 510 - not bad with only £45 worth of juice 
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Posted: Sun Mar 24, 2013 6:29 am |
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Joined: Aug 07, 2012
Posts: 59
Trade Rating: 0
Location: leeds
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I might just get it cleaned out.
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Posted: Tue Mar 26, 2013 10:21 am |
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Joined: Oct 05, 2012
Posts: 367
Trade Rating: 0
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I'd get the whole thing removed if I were you. It'll just need unblocking again and will eventuall need replacing expensively anyway, as Pug told me they are only meant to last for around 80k miles.
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Posted: Tue Mar 26, 2013 12:06 pm |
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Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Posts: 7093
Trade Rating: +11
Location: Suffolk
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They are only ment to last depedant on your servicing intervals but approx 60 to 80k (supposedly 100K). Wurth seller a FAP cleaner which did work for us (prox £50) but firstly requires removal of the FAP and then a clean out session, reving the engine for about 10 minutes, to clean the cat.
Once done refit the fap and insert the fluid in the correct hole (temp sensor between cat and fap usually).
Go for a SLOW drive keeping the load as little as possible and drive it for approx 20 to 30 miles (a-road pref) with a rough speed of 55 to 60. Eventually it 'should' regen (subject to fluid level and fault codes), if all is okay the car should pretty much have a spotlessly clean FAP
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| Team Impossible Possible
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