The Peugeot 206 Info Exchange › Forums › The Car › 206 Problems

Forums Home

Forum FAQ

GTI climate control blower not working
Forum Index › 206 Problems

watchs.gif

Author

Message

itix

Posted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 10:31 am

Joined: Mar 15, 2013
Posts: 5
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Sweden

Hey... This is a copy paste of a post I made on peugeot forums and since I figured there might be people here that aren't there I posted it here as well.

I have a -99 GTI with the digital air conditioning (Don't all GTI's have this?).

I have had a problem with my blower working intermittently without any noticeable or reproduceable conditions in which it works. It mostly doesn't work but will suddenly work sometimes.

I googled a lot and a lot of posts seemed to suggest that the resistor was the problem with almost identical problem descriptions so I have bought a brand new fan with a new resistor (or speed controller or what the silver hedgehog thing is) included at a Peugeot garage and changed to that one without luck... still same problem.

I have checked the fuses (just to rule them out) and wiring. I have checked the control panel internals and measured voltages and stuff. Voltage comes from the control panel and I have now run out of ideas. Does any body else have any ideas?

The bloody fan worked when i bought the car...

BRGDS
Johannes

Edward

Posted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 1:29 pm

Joined: Feb 08, 2010
Posts: 7045
Trade Rating: +5
Location: In the garage

GTi fans don't have a resistor. It just needs a new fan. The right fan for the car that is.


	2001 GTi 138, Bilstein Sprint dampers, H&R springs, 21mm Peugeot Sport torsion bars, 22mm rear ARB, Peugeot Sport Group A wishbones, 283mm discs, Goodridge stainless hoses, Maniflow 304 grade 4-2-1 2.5" manifold and system, 200 cell cat, Richard Longman head, 45mm Jenvey throttle bodies, 9.5mm TB spacers, 90mm air horns, Jenvey throttle linkage, Jenvey fuel rail, Aeromotive and Goodridge fuel fittings and braided hose, ITG sausage filter, Radtec custom radiator, Piper Ultimate Road cams, Piper vernier pulleys, Omex 600 ECU. Saxo electric PAS pump, Vibra Technics engine mounts. Samco coolant hoses, TTV steel flywheel, 4.76 final drive ratio, 307 CC 180 ratios. 2019 BMW 530i. 2017 Mercedes C300 convertible.

itix

Posted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 2:31 pm

Joined: Mar 15, 2013
Posts: 5
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Sweden

Like I wrote, I have bought a brand new fan from a Peugeot garage. It has the silver hedgehog thing (speed controller or resistor or whatever you want to call it) just like the original one. This did absolutely nothing.

I have measured the control voltages going from the control panel to the silver hedgehog and they vary with the +/- buttons on the control panel. The problem is that no voltage at all is coming from the silver hedgehog to the fan and the voltage difference between the hedgehog in and fan out (+/- over the whole circuit) is just a few voltages (like 2-3 v).

I am beginning to suspect that the wiring is damaged somewhere between the battery and the hedgehog :S

itix

Posted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 3:19 pm

Joined: Mar 15, 2013
Posts: 5
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Sweden

Completely crazy question:
*does anybody know the path that the wires take between the battery and the fan speed controller (hedgehog)?

More stupid questions:
*is there any guide for removing the whole dashboard in here?
*Is the minus end earthed in the body and the chassis on a 206? That will make things a lot easier to trace

I'm gonna do some testing because my theory makes sense. The fan comes on sometimes when I am driving and the general behavior suggest that there's a loose connection somewhere.

Deckchair5

Posted: Sat Mar 16, 2013 3:35 am

Joined: Aug 01, 2011
Posts: 390
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Bath UK

As you've found out, your fan doesn't have a resistor pack and the fan speed has a electronic circuit fan controller integral to the fan ( the hedgehog)
But certain things are similar, the fan receives an ignition on constant 12v supply and it's the fan's path to earth that is controlled either by the resistor pack in the case of the 4 speed fan or by a much more variable speed electronic controller with speed feedback on the climate control

First step i would do is find out which part of circuit is failing so check for power at the fan, that's pin2 on the large two pin fan connector 8050. That'll be the supply coming directly from the fuse F40 straight to the fan. No power there and you'd have a fairly straight forward power supply problem to trace

The other pin will be the earth line which goes through the speed controller circuit eventually to earth. So if you wanted to put your own earth as a test on the other pin of the 2 pin connector then the fan should run at full speed but disconnect the 4 pin speed controller connector first. That eliminates everything upstream in the circuit as being a problem.

Now the speed controller
that receives + supply to its circuit by a jumper lead from pin 2 on the 2 pin connector to pin 1A on it's connector so you might want to check that's doing its job

and pin 1 on the 2 pin connector is the earth path for the motor which connects to pin 4A on the speed controller so you could also check that circuit is connecting

The other two pins of the 4 pin speed controller connector are the signal in and signal return to the control panel. One will supply the requested fan speed and the other will be feedback of the fan actual speed. Problems there could simply be a poor connection of those two wires at the control panel on pins 13 and 16

itix

Posted: Sat Mar 16, 2013 7:55 am

Joined: Mar 15, 2013
Posts: 5
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Sweden

I checked the voltage between the power supply over the entire fan circuit yesterday (hedgehog + to fan -) and it came up as 1.5 v (not 2-3 v like I wrote yesterday... re-checked today).

I just checked the voltage between the fuse outlet and earth (minus) for the blower and it's the same as the voltage over the hedgehog, i.e. 1.5 v. The problem is for sure not the motor or the speed controller.

Super thanks for the wiring diagram... it is a life saver. Now I just have to figure it out ;D
I am now sure that the problem is between the fusebox and the battery. I just ran a check of that fuse and one of the headlights to make sure it wasn't the entire fuse box.

I'm now gonna run down and trace the problem Smile

This is exactly why I love forums... information is so easy to come by! Thanks again

itix

Posted: Mon Mar 18, 2013 4:23 pm

Joined: Mar 15, 2013
Posts: 5
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Sweden

All right, issue resolved! (btw, the hedgehog is a transistor I have now found out thanks to Deckchairs wiring diagram). Do mind that my car is left hand drive so not everything might be exactly the same.

Guide

First I checked the whole system with my multimeter. You can test against the body or chassis if you find a piece of clean unpainted metal. Minus on the battery is earthed in the chassis as is common with cars.

The easiest way to tell if you have the same problem as I is if you get ~1.5v between one of the connectors in fuse 40 in the wiring diagram above and earth (whith the ignition on). You should get 0v if you pull fuse 38. (both are in the drivers side fuse box).

The problem is probably a stuck spring activated switch in the ignition and the ~1.5v are fed backwards from the cooling fan circuit. It could also be faulty wiring somewhere else so be careful. According to above wiring diagram, the current take the path through main fuse 13 in the engine bay fuse box, then through the connector behind the steering wheel to the ignition switch and from there through fuse 40 to the fan transisitor. If you have 12+ v in the main fuse 13 connectors, the steering wheel connector but ~1.5 v at fuse 40 (with the steering wheel connector in and the ignition on), your problem is likely the same as mine.

Here is how to remedy the problem if it is the ignition switch:

Make sure to take pictures of every step of the way so you can retrace when you put everything back together.

First remove all the plastic around the steering wheel... there are two torx 20 on the underside of the steering wheel "box" and the plastic clips that hold the rest comes out fairly easily. Start lifting the top off and then the bottom. Be careful with the bottom half as that has the radio stalk on it and the cable is fragile. You might have to move the steering column to get the plastic out.

Disconnect the two cable bundles going to the ingnition

The one under the orange thingy is the one you should disconnect... sorry for the image quality. I hate my girlfriends iPhone and my proper phone's battery had decided that enough is enough.

It is also this one that you should check for voltage. You should get 12+ v between two of the pins and earth.

Pull the black plastic "collar" off the lock cylinder. Careful with the cables as usual. (Does anybody know what that does? And how the F--- does it work?)

Now locate the torx 20 locking screw on top of the lock cylinder. It was in an awkward angle for me so I had to resort to a torx 20 bit and an adjustable wrench to get it out.

Put the key in the lock and move it as the arrow shows. (In between the M and the A... it is not a firm stop)

Locate the two "pins" on the underside of the lock cylinder and push them both while pulling out the lock cylinder. It is a bit tricky to pull off and I expect you to curse a lot!

Locate the two torx screws holding the lock cylinder and lock switch together (on the back of the lock switch). I don't have a photo of this unfortunately... blame Appple Wink

Turn the key to the "off" position and pull it out. The switch should now be easy to remove.

Be careful with the plastic pin on the back of the switch... I wasn't so I had to glue the bloody thing! Evil or Very Mad

Lift of the cover of the switch with a flat head screw driver carefully! Take pictures of how everything looks as it is very important that things go back together the way they were before.

Lift out the moving parts veeeeery carefully as they are springloaded and you don't want springs and other parts flying in all directions.

The switch should now look like this. The connectors between the battery and the fuse for the blower is circled ("this).

The faulty part is this one:

Take a small file (like a nail file) and remove plastic around where it moves up and down and confirm that it moves by pushing it down again.

Now comes the fun bit of putting it all back together. This will require a lot of patience and cursing and of course the pictures you took previously so that you can follow it backwards.

Good luck! Smile

watchs.gif		All times are GMT
Forum Index › 206 Problems Page 1 of 1


	You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum You cannot attach files in this forum You can download files in this forum