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Forums › The Car › 206 Problems › MOT Soon, cost of repairs? |
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 Posted: Mon May 06, 2013 7:35 am |
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Joined: Sep 18, 2012
Posts: 5
Trade Rating: 0
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So basically, I've had my 2000 206 1.4 LX 7 months now, and minus the earth cable snapping 2 days after getting it and the garage not connecting the fuel filter properly, it's been a nice first car.
However, the MOT is soon around the corner and I've been told quite a few things will need doing. So basically I'm asking to see if anyone has a ballpark figure for the things to be replaced/fixed.
Cambelt has done 60k miles on the current belt, so I assume that needs to be replaced relatively soon, along with the water pump(?) and aux belt(it squeeks sometimes)
Brake discs and pads on the front seem to be around the minimum depth
C.V. Boot on the passenger side is split
Both balljoints were on advisories list from the last MOT and they now look in bad condition
Exhaust is blowing somewhere (any ideas on how to find out whereabouts it is blowing?)
Any reply is welcomed, thanks in advance!
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Posted: Mon May 06, 2013 8:51 am |
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Joined: Jan 29, 2011
Posts: 6526
Trade Rating: +10
Location: Westhoughton, Lancashire
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Cambelt, not tested on MOT but advisable to get it changed due to the mecanic sticking his foot on the accelerator and revving the b******s off the engine to get it to temperature.. About 4 hours labour
Discs and pads, easy enough to change yourself but shouldn't take a garage more than a couple for both sides
CV boot means driveshaft out. Since wishbones being done then easy enough to do at same time. Probably take 30 mins max
Lower wishbones a couple of hours each side. You've only had 12 months to get these sorted.
To find where the exhaust is blowing, start the engine and get a mate to cover the tailpipe with a rag and the palm of his hand. Lie at the side of the car and listen for the noise. Sometimes you have to run your hand around the exhaust to feel for the air coming out. If it's post cat then it's not always a fail. Depending on the size of the hole, and it's location, some exhaust putty can solve the problem.
The price of parts varies depending where they are bought from, but you can get a rough price from Eurocarparts. If the garage supply them, then you can expect to pay a bit more.
No point telling you how much the labour will cost as all garages have different rates, but work between £20 and £60 an hour.
Depending where you live, someone on here might be able to do the jobs for you, or at least help you out doing them
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Posted: Wed May 08, 2013 4:28 pm |
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Joined: Aug 04, 2011
Posts: 1343
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Swindon
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Macca is right in all respects except, I think, the leaking exhaust. Even if the leak is post cat it will affect the readings that the garage take at the exit of the exhaust (that is always after any leak!!) and that will create a fail. Frustrating but true.
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Posted: Thu May 09, 2013 2:00 am |
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Joined: Jan 29, 2011
Posts: 6526
Trade Rating: +10
Location: Westhoughton, Lancashire
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| kandlbarrett wrote: |
| Macca is right in all respects except, I think, the leaking exhaust. Even if the leak is post cat it will affect the readings that the garage take at the exit of the exhaust (that is always after any leak!!) and that will create a fail. Frustrating but true. |
A minor leak is acceptable. A major leak can fail. It all depends on the examiner and how they see it.
www.motuk.co.uk/manual_710.htm
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Posted: Thu May 09, 2013 3:01 am |
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Joined: Feb 08, 2010
Posts: 7045
Trade Rating: +5
Location: In the garage
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The ball joints were an advisory on the last MOT and you've done nothing about it? This is how people get a shock with all the bills coming at the same time - i.e. MOT time!
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| 2001 GTi 138, Bilstein Sprint dampers, H&R springs, 21mm Peugeot Sport torsion bars, 22mm rear ARB, Peugeot Sport Group A wishbones, 283mm discs, Goodridge stainless hoses, Maniflow 304 grade 4-2-1 2.5" manifold and system, 200 cell cat, Richard Longman head, 45mm Jenvey throttle bodies, 9.5mm TB spacers, 90mm air horns, Jenvey throttle linkage, Jenvey fuel rail, Aeromotive and Goodridge fuel fittings and braided hose, ITG sausage filter, Radtec custom radiator, Piper Ultimate Road cams, Piper vernier pulleys, Omex 600 ECU. Saxo electric PAS pump, Vibra Technics engine mounts. Samco coolant hoses, TTV steel flywheel, 4.76 final drive ratio, 307 CC 180 ratios. 2019 BMW 530i. 2017 Mercedes C300 convertible. | |
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Posted: Thu May 09, 2013 10:50 am |
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Joined: Sep 18, 2012
Posts: 5
Trade Rating: 0
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Thanks for the amount of detail you gave Macca, it's very useful. I'm gonna attempt the brakes with some help from my dad so that should reduce the cost a little and I'll have to check the exhaust and see just how big the leak is.
Regarding the balljoints, with the car being my first and the previous owner saying they would last until after the next MOT, I foolishly believed them without checking. Something I won't be doing again, however I am going to get them changed over asap.
Instead of creating another thread, I thought I'd post in this one since I'm pretty sure it's going to need to be fixed as well. Since a couple of days ago, the front right of the car has starting creaking(can't describe the sound really but doesn't sound normal) whenever any sort've pressure is put on it. I've spoke to a mechanic friend who has said the front shock might've seized, has anyone experienced this/heard of similar cases before? I don't want to be replacing parts only to find it doesn't fix the problem.
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