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Forums › The Car › 206 Problems › bent subframe? (merged with understeer/oversteer thread)


 
 

bent subframe? (merged with understeer/oversteer thread)
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Addaz
PostPosted: Tue Jul 30, 2013 12:51 am Up
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Subframe looks fine but your bottom arms are f****d
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Sim
PostPosted: Tue Jul 30, 2013 1:10 am Up
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Will get a clearer picture of n/s subframe edge.

These gone lower arms been replaced with new ones yesterday.

Ultimately, im after a reason why lower arm bush got ripped in only two months.

Two versions so far:
I was driving with n/s 6.5 and o/s 2.5mm toe out for last 1.5months
or
Bent subframe somewhere

Done 4wheel tracking week ago, will do again with new tyres (195/55/15 instead of old 185/65/15) and new wishbones, to eliminate suspects..

Waiting somebody to picture their subframe

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Edward
PostPosted: Tue Jul 30, 2013 1:31 am Up
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That bush looks like it's pulled out of the wishbone.
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Steve206
PostPosted: Tue Jul 30, 2013 1:37 am Up
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Look like the wrOng wishbones, shouldn't they have a metal outer bush?
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Sim
PostPosted: Tue Jul 30, 2013 2:48 am Up
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Steve206 wrote:
Look like the wrOng wishbones, shouldn't they have a metal outer bush?

They don't: www.gsfcarparts.com/422pc0380
And O/S (same rubber) bush is intact

I'm sure there are lots of types.

Just updated pictures of subframe sides with better quality ones. See this post.

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£50 1.4 HDi, year 2002 (seatless transporter, SORNed, rust needs patching)
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Sim
PostPosted: Thu Aug 01, 2013 4:34 am Up
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4-wheel alignment done, drives mint! Can do national speed limit on curves Smile

Lee from FCM wheel alignment (best man I know) said subframe would need to have a play to destroy a bush so fast.
The differing gap between metal lips on the sides does not have enough influence in geometry he said.

So let's give a month and see how the new bush is doing.

If it survives, time for poly bushes afterwards! Smile

2.0 HDi, year 2000 (E's restin')
Red GTi 180, year 2004 (VorTechS' sEXy Beast (being) remasteRed)
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Missus' 1.6 16v CC, year 2007 (L-plates to P-plates to NO-plates, but now she wants powwer:))
£50 1.4 HDi, year 2002 (seatless transporter, SORNed, rust needs patching)
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RichardEke
PostPosted: Thu Aug 01, 2013 2:43 pm Up
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I've just replaced the lower arm on mine, the bushes were split like that but once its jacked up the problem looks alot worse.
This thread has made me think i should get a wheel alignment now though:)
Just out of interest, those subframe bolt, are they in the right way up? I'm just curious as mine were the other way up with the nut at the bottom.
Regards, Richard.

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Sim
PostPosted: Thu Aug 01, 2013 4:13 pm Up
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It always looks lot worse when jacked up. Showed the dreaded bone to wheel aligner guy today, the split is clearly visible even when removed.

He claimed alignment cannot do such damage. So if my subframe is fine, I'll blame the gsfcarparts.com for faulty bush rubber, and demand refund under warranty.

No idea abou difference in bolt's direction..

Thanks all for the pointers!!

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Red GTi 180, year 2004 (VorTechS' sEXy Beast (being) remasteRed)
Blue GTi 180, year 2004 (in hibernation after endless driving fun in 2019, queued for "cambelt in tight spaces")
Missus' 1.6 16v CC, year 2007 (L-plates to P-plates to NO-plates, but now she wants powwer:))
£50 1.4 HDi, year 2002 (seatless transporter, SORNed, rust needs patching)
EV
Jag S(crapped)- & X-Type
GTC VXR (sold)
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kandlbarrett
PostPosted: Sat Aug 03, 2013 4:04 am Up
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Bolts should always (well almost always) be fitted with nut at the bottom. Lots of mechanics don't because they are a bit fiddly to get in and sometimes easier to fit upside down. However, if the nut comes undone the the bolt will quickly fall out. That is why the nut should be on the bottom.

The nuts are not likely to come undone but if the mechanic was so lazy he put them in the wrong way how confident are you that he put the correct torque on the nuts. For you own safety put them in the right way.

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