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Forums › The Car › 206 Talk › Colour Coding |
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 Posted: Thu Jan 16, 2014 4:26 pm |
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Joined: Dec 04, 2012
Posts: 543
Trade Rating: 0
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Hi Guys,
Looking at colour coding at some point next week, but have the slight problem that I don't really have anywhere to do it, apart from outside.
I was thinking, (due to the temperature), that I could do all the prep/primer/paint outdoors, and then when you keep it to dry for 24 hours (between paint and clear coat), move it indoors.
Would it be better to keep in the shed, during the drying period, or indoors?
Cheers
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Posted: Thu Jan 16, 2014 4:34 pm |
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Joined: Sep 11, 2013
Posts: 134
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It depends on what type of product you are going to use, if you are looking at aerosols it will be cellulose primer which tends to bloom in cold temperatures like this, you need to bring it up to temperature as well as the panel i.e. bumpers
When spraying we spray in temperature from 20-26 degrees, we are spraying water based and 2k these days, which are much less susceptible to blooming than cellulose is.
Basically what Im trying to tell you is yes in colder temperatures you will need to increase drying times quite a lot, however you really need to get the paint and panel up to an acceptable temperature to paint it, once it begins to cure though leaving it in the cold will be fine, it will just slow the drying process a lot
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Posted: Thu Jan 16, 2014 4:38 pm |
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Joined: Sep 11, 2013
Posts: 134
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Also you have to make sure when clear coating that the colour is dry yes, but you cant leave it to cure for too long as you will suffer lacquer peel (lacquer flaking away from the colour) when the colour is too hard the lacquer cannot bite into the surface of the colour and key.
I have seem some diyers sanding their colour before lacquering which is not the done thing in the trade, as you are introducing scratches which will be visible in lighter colours such a silvers, but this would allow lacquer to key to the colour
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Posted: Thu Jan 16, 2014 4:41 pm |
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Joined: Dec 04, 2012
Posts: 543
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| robb wrote: |
It depends on what type of product you are going to use, if you are looking at aerosols it will be cellulose primer which tends to bloom in cold temperatures like this, you need to bring it up to temperature as well as the panel i.e. bumpers
When spraying we spray in temperature from 20-26 degrees, we are spraying water based and 2k these days, which are much less susceptible to blooming than cellulose is.
Basically what Im trying to tell you is yes in colder temperatures you will need to increase drying times quite a lot, however you really need to get the paint and panel up to an acceptable temperature to paint it, once it begins to cure though leaving it in the cold will be fine, it will just slow the drying process a lot |
Yeah it's going to be an aerosol jobby.
I was thinking of 3 coats of plastic primer, with 10 mins drying time between each coat, wait to fully dry, and then lightly sand with 1200.
If outside, would it be worth leaving for 20 or so mins? Other option may be to put dustsheets all around the place in the spare room, and then paint in there, as it's around 22 degrees indoors here
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Posted: Thu Jan 16, 2014 4:55 pm |
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Joined: Sep 11, 2013
Posts: 134
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If you can get it indoors then yes bring it indoors, Im not saying you wont get people saying they have done it outside with no problems, but if you can avoid issues then you may as well.
You need to sand the plastics down first to remove most of the texture, I did all this 3 weeks ago in the workshop, Used the da with 240's on to remove all the texture and make the plastic smooth, then went over again with 400 on the da to smooth it even more and remove any deep sctraches.
Then you need to using an adhesion promoter, I recommend upol no.2
Then once that dries, takes about 2 minutes at room temp, then just apply a primer with a decent build, high build will fill in any imperfections and give you the most to work with quickly, however try and put the coats on nice and smooth, its hard for me to say how many coats you will require as Im not used to using aerosol primer, I have previously used around 10 different trade high builds in aerosols and none of them were fit for purpose bar kent which is a fantastic aerosol high build, with kent high build 3 coats would cover the 400 scratches and give you a nice base to work with.
You can then sand that with 800-1200 wet and dry which is probably the easiest for you to find rather than foam backed pads which I would prefer.
However once you have it perfectly rubbed and flat you should get a piece of grey scotch and just give it a good rub over, scotch is designed to rub in many different directions at the same time even if you are only moving it in one direction, what this does is remove any tram lines and finger marks you have put into the primer, with your car been silver this is important as the metal particles in sliver will sit into these lines and you will see swirls and marks in your rubbing
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Posted: Thu Jan 16, 2014 5:16 pm |
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Joined: Dec 04, 2012
Posts: 543
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That's great info - thanks!
I read somewhere on here to wet sand with 600 first, dry, and then wet sand with 800, and then do 3 coats of grey plastic primer - would that be suitable?
Also, how long would you leave between paint and lacquer?
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Posted: Thu Jan 16, 2014 5:40 pm |
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Joined: Jan 29, 2011
Posts: 6526
Trade Rating: +10
Location: Westhoughton, Lancashire
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Spray putty is great for reducing the prep work sanding the plastic smooth
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Posted: Fri Jan 17, 2014 1:39 am |
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Joined: Sep 11, 2013
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Not heard of spray putty myself, I presume its a bit like a spray filler and primer in one? Either way the bumper will still require sanding before it is applied to ensure it sticks
As for what to sand with, sanding with 600 will ensure you don't put too many scratches into it and will give a nice smooth finish, but you will be there all day, as I say I went with 240 then 400, however the high build I use will have 2-3 times the build of something you find in an aerosol.
Also be careful if you are sanding with a disc designed for a da, but using it by hand it makes the disc a lot more abrasive, for example sanding with a 180 da disc by hand is like sanding with an 80 grit disc on a da, its all to do with the way the disc is made, basically don't sand things by hand with da discs, use paper designed to be sanded by hand, if you need to use a da disc then go less abrasive than you would with hand rubbing paper
As for how long, to leave between colour and lacquer, just until it it touch dry, it depends what type of colour your are using? I learnt with 2k, but for the last 9 years I have only sprayed with water based, but basically with 40 degree hot air blowing at water based paint it takes about 5-10 mins for a coat to dry, once dry you can run a tack cloth over it without making it, but it is still soft enough to accept lacquer
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Posted: Fri Jan 17, 2014 4:50 am |
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Joined: Dec 04, 2012
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Posted: Fri Jan 17, 2014 6:38 am |
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Joined: Sep 11, 2013
Posts: 134
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Yeah it will work, will be as good as any aerosol color Is going to be I would imagine.
Ive never sprayed acrylic so your best of with a diyers experience for that part
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Posted: Fri Jan 17, 2014 4:37 pm |
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Joined: Dec 04, 2012
Posts: 543
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| robb wrote: |
Yeah it will work, will be as good as any aerosol color Is going to be I would imagine.
Ive never sprayed acrylic so your best of with a diyers experience for that part |
Okay, that's great. Thanks for your help mate!
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Posted: Fri Jan 17, 2014 4:47 pm |
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Joined: Sep 11, 2013
Posts: 134
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You are welcome always willing to try help pass on a few tips I've picked up through the years
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