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Forums › The Car › Solved 206 Problems › 206 1.4 verve 2003 WONT START. ....SOLVED ......


 
 

206 1.4 verve 2003 WONT START. ....SOLVED ......
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Sproggy
PostPosted: Wed Apr 30, 2014 1:43 pm Up
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car wont start
daughter had to be towed home , temperature gauge shot into the red and it wouldn't start again , this happened to me a year ago but i stopped for 10 mins and it started all right and has been fine till the other day

having got it home and i started looking around for the solution
both by looking on here and on the car itself but it still wont start

i have bough new bosh plugs and a new coil pack ,
replaced he 2 relays in the little box next to the radiator fan , behind the grill , the wiring in there was so corroded it was unbelievable

checked all fused with a tester
it still wont start
i am getting a strong spark at the plug

i am now of the opinion that the engine isn't getting any fuel , the plugs come out bone dry despite loads of turning over but not a whisper of it firing

i was aware of a clicking coming from the petrol idle control valve and it was getting quite warm , i took it of but it doesn't seem to be doing anything when i turn on the power or try to start the car . could that be the fault ?

if i am right in saying i don't think its getting petrol , what else could it be (the tank is half full and when i take the little dust cap of the fuel bar and push the little valve like a pushbikes inner tube then petrol gushes out)

sorry for long post , just trying to fit in all that ive done
brian


Last edited by Sproggy on Tue May 13, 2014 6:27 am; edited 1 time in total
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Timon2210
PostPosted: Wed Apr 30, 2014 2:40 pm Up
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Well for a start make sure you have not short circuit what so ever,and all fuses are fine,then try the safe reboot,which you can find the list of steps in here,and try to start it.

about fuel,you might have a clogged fuel filter,take a look at it down the car,and btw have you checked if the timing belt still in it's location?

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E5GDM
PostPosted: Wed Apr 30, 2014 2:44 pm Up
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Could be a dodgy fuel pump, but a lack of petrol wouldn't have caused the temperature gauge to go up.
Try to borrow or get another pump, then if it runs check the engine oil & cooling systems out.

 
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Sproggy
PostPosted: Wed Apr 30, 2014 3:30 pm Up
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HI ,
Timing belt is there good and strong
fuel is being pumped to the injector unit , i am thinking it is after the fuel pump where the problem lies
i have visually checked the wiring over ad cannot see a problem , im not really any good at electrics, i have a meter but don't understand its use .

i don't know anyone else with a 206 that i can lend a fuel pump from unfortunately , the Haynes manual says manually prime the fuel till there is fuel in a clear pipe but i don't see where on the car to do that

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Addaz
PostPosted: Wed Apr 30, 2014 3:38 pm Up
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Have you checked for fault codes? As i wouldnt have done anything till i had
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Sproggy
PostPosted: Wed Apr 30, 2014 4:10 pm Up
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Addaz wrote:
Have you checked for fault codes? As i wouldnt have done anything till i had

i had 2 fault codes , one was for the coil pack , and one for the coolant fluid sensor , i have replaced them both , however the coolant senor fault remains , that is what lead me to replace the 2 relays also , yet the code for the coolant sensor still remains
the dash also indicates "eco mode"
i only have a cheap 30 pound code reader from ebay , it doesn't specify that it is for peugeot though its a vgate vs550 obd/eobd scanner

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MrBSI
PostPosted: Thu May 01, 2014 11:17 am Up
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Sproggy wrote:

the dash also indicates "eco mode"

That's NOT a fault, its perfectly normal & will vanish once the engine is running.

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kandlbarrett
PostPosted: Thu May 01, 2014 3:12 pm Up
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Compression test?
Probably isn't low but worth ruling out as checking that is free or only the cost of a tester. That is much cheaper than continuing to throw parts at it.
The cam belt can still be in place but have skipped a few teeth and bent valves leading to low compression. unlikely but can happen.
Or the belt can strip teeth but, from quick inspection, appear to be good. The engine turns over but the belt stays still. Again bent valves and no compression.

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Sproggy
PostPosted: Thu May 01, 2014 3:47 pm Up
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kandlbarrett wrote:
Compression test?
Probably isn't low but worth ruling out as checking that is free or only the cost of a tester. That is much cheaper than continuing to throw parts at it.
The cam belt can still be in place but have skipped a few teeth and bent valves leading to low compression. unlikely but can happen.
Or the belt can strip teeth but, from quick inspection, appear to be good. The engine turns over but the belt stays still. Again bent valves and no compression.

thats a good idea , i have a old tester somewhere i will have a go tomorrow evening .
i have spent all day finding plug sockets and taking apart and cleaning them all, just for something to do . one large earth lead just under the washer bottle was not even connected, probably from when the car was in a minor accident , lazy garage didnt put it back in

still not running , not even trying to start , i still believe that its not getting fuel
the idle speed stepper motor appeared to be getting quite hot to the tiouch and the relay for it seemed to be clicking on and off quite alot , i wonder if that is faulty .
i will keep trying till ive had enough of it , luckily we dont need the car at the moment

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mattymj
PostPosted: Thu May 01, 2014 4:00 pm Up
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Does the fuel pump prime when the ignition it turned on?

Also when was it last serviced inc filters

 
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kandlbarrett
PostPosted: Thu May 01, 2014 4:13 pm Up
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Will it fire with the good old fashioned "easy start" squirt direct into the inlet? That will give a steer on lack of fuel being the cause. Again a can of "easy start is cheap."

Do the compression test first though as cars with very low compression will still fire with easy start.

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Sproggy
PostPosted: Thu May 01, 2014 5:00 pm Up
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im not sure how to tell if the pump primes , should i hear it buzzing when ignition turned on
ive just read i should put pedal to floor then turn in ignition to prime the syatem , that anothe thing to ry tomorrow

las serviced last year end of summer , but only by me going around looking at things , oil and filter and air filter

no easy start available , i need to call in at a autofactors to get some stuff, car cleanr contact cleaner and now some easy start , strting to add up is the cost of this problem

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Sproggy
PostPosted: Fri May 02, 2014 1:38 pm Up
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Well i got some easy start and it made no difference. Still didnt start . I found my very old compression tester to find it would not fit into the recess where the coil pack fit due to the injector rail . I took the rail off to find that it still would nof fit the hole as it is too short to make a seal . Call to my brother in law revealed he has one , unfortunatly i have had to pack in to meet him in the pub in a while to collect the tester if he can find it .
Running out of patience with the thing , however as the car is in the driveway , cant get it to the garage , i cant find a local mechanic that is mobile (ossett) so becoming a little frustrating
Am i right in thinking if the key remote opens the door and turns the engine over , its nothing to do with that side of things.i.e everything matches so it not the immobiliser for example , thats stopping it from starting.
Brian

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MrBSI
PostPosted: Fri May 02, 2014 1:42 pm Up
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Sproggy wrote:

Am i right in thinking if the key remote opens the door and turns the engine over , its nothing to do with that side of things.i.e everything matches so it not the immobiliser for example , thats stopping it from starting.
Brian

It will turn over all day long until either the battery goes flat OR you burn the starter motor out.

The immobiliser on a 206 doesn't stop the starter motor from turning, it's a software lock on the engine ecu.

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Sproggy
PostPosted: Fri May 02, 2014 1:47 pm Up
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Further the the above, what kind of reading should i be looking for from a compression tester
Brian

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