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 Posted: Mon Dec 15, 2014 4:09 am |
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Joined: Dec 09, 2014
Posts: 28
Trade Rating: 0
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My first post so hope it's in the right section. I've acquired a 206 sport 1.1 (2005). The V5 log book says the version is "HFX" which I believe is the TU1JP lump. I've worked on a few motors previous but not a Peugeot. It's a tidy little car but has not had much maintenance done by previous owner and at 83000 miles is still on original timing belt so that is going to be my first job.
Having a quick look underneath it is quite a bit oily and previous MoT's have given advisory for leaking sump. I also suspect it is leaking oil from the headgasket that seems to be a very common problem with this engine so if I'm going to do the timing belt I might as well go the extra and do the head as well. I've done headgasket before on an Astra but never worked on the peugeot and I've read that you have to be careful not to disturb the wet liner seals when removing the head.
I'll probably have a few questions along the way but my first Q is do I need liner retaining clamps, or is that only necessary if you need to rotate the engine with the head off. I was thinking that once the crank is locked into position I can remove the head, clean, & refit without moving the pistons so hopefully won't disturb the liners.
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Posted: Tue Dec 16, 2014 5:25 am |
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Joined: Jun 19, 2010
Posts: 1600
Trade Rating: +4
Location: South Bucks
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You don't want to move the crank after all the belts are off as this will mean you will have to reset the timing. My Haynes does mention locking the liners in place, but only seems to suggest you need to if you have to rotate the crank for any reason.
It also mentions checking the head bolts for the length and replacing if stretched. They should 175.5mm and no longer than 176.5mm. Measure from the underside of the bolt head to the end.
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| Down to just the 1.4 HDi. Cayman Green 2.0i CC sold. | |
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Posted: Tue Dec 16, 2014 10:42 am |
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Joined: Aug 04, 2011
Posts: 1343
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Swindon
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Just taking the belts off the cam is likely to move. I wouldn't remove a belt unless everything was locked in place or I had the tools to check and reset before reassembly.
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| Morris 1000, Austin 1100, Escort Mk2, Fiat Mirafiori, Alfa 33, Alfa GT Junior, Alfasud, Alfetta GTV (2x), Alfa 164 3.0 V6, Alfa 164 2.0, Alfa 75 V6, Alfa 156 2.4 (diesel remapped 200bhp), Alfa 147 GTA (3.6 295bhp), Alfa 159 (diesel remapped 245bhp 300ft.lbs @ 2500rpm)
Why isn't my daughter an Alfaholic? | |
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Posted: Tue Dec 16, 2014 12:09 pm |
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Joined: Dec 09, 2014
Posts: 28
Trade Rating: 0
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Ok thanks, have spend the day taking bits off and will leave the old timing belt in place till I'm ready and will make sure cam/crank is locked in correct position before I remove that. Does the crank need a special kind of locking pin? I've not had a proper look underneath to see where the locking hole is yet but read you can use a length of brake pipe bent into shape to lock the flywheel - not sure if that's just to make it easier to access, or if I can use a suitable size stud from underneath.
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Posted: Wed Dec 17, 2014 10:30 am |
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Joined: Dec 09, 2014
Posts: 28
Trade Rating: 0
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Cam & crank are now locked in position. I found the small hole on the flywheel side next to the oil canister, a bit of a tight space but I've got a set of right angled star tools and one of them fitted snuggly in the hole to lock the crank. The pulley end was already tipexed so that gave me a starting point and lined up perfect when locked in place. The hole in the cam sprocket & head lined up to insert a bolt and as an added measure I also marked a cam tooth with the head. Have removed old belt & tensioner so think I should be ready to remove head soon.
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Posted: Mon Jan 19, 2015 8:52 am |
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Joined: Dec 09, 2014
Posts: 28
Trade Rating: 0
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Well so far I've removed and cleaned up the cylinder head, just need to clean up the block surface and should be ready to fit new headgasket soon. I've used a metal ruler across the head and it is flat with no warpage so don't think it needs skimming. Can anyone recommend a head gasket as I've done some googling and appears to be various kinds so not sure which one to go with. The gasket that came off is the fibre composite and had 1 notch at the top followed by 3 notches which I beleive is the standard thickness of 1.26mm. Would that be the one to fit if no skim is required.
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Posted: Mon Jan 19, 2015 5:00 pm |
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Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Posts: 2719
Trade Rating: +6
Location: UK
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Have you got new head bolts?
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Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2015 5:32 am |
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Joined: Dec 09, 2014
Posts: 28
Trade Rating: 0
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| Steve206 wrote: |
| Have you got new head bolts? |
Not yet but I will get new bolts when I get the gasket. Still struggling with which gasket to get as I've read various forums which say MLS are better than fibre but I don't know if that is for the older engines as when I search various online car parts by reg number it brings up the fibre gasket for this car. I think I will go with an Elring gasket as I've heard they're a decent brand and there site also brings up the fibre gasket for this engine so I'm thinking that's the one I need.
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Posted: Mon Jan 26, 2015 3:43 am |
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Joined: Dec 09, 2014
Posts: 28
Trade Rating: 0
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Just a small update (and as you can see I've not rushed this lol). Scratching my head on which gasket to get I've finally gone with the Corteco from GSF. It's the same fibre material as the original that came off and although I've read many posts which say MLS is better, it seems that the fibre one are fitted to the later 206 engine so decided to go with that. GSF had a 35% off online deal so gasket with a set of new bolts came to £26. Will let you know how I get on.
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