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 Posted: Mon Mar 23, 2015 12:47 pm |
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Joined: Apr 19, 2012
Posts: 27
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Worcestershire
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Hi folks,
First off, my wife's car is a 2003 206 1.4 HDI.
The car had a free "Health Check" last week at one of the Lister group garages. Although it's within it's MOT, the car has been neglected somewhat due to finances. 
The check was videoed and sent to my email and threw up a few issues. After I'd sifted through the crap I was left with a few items that were clear to see. One of which was a badly leaking OSR brake cylinder. Now although I'm physically disabled, I do like to be as productive as possible, and wanted to do as many of the repairs as possible. Unfortunately I couldn't undo the brake pipe bolt attached to the cylinder due to corrosion and whoever worked on it last rounding the bolt off. That's even with using the appropriate "Brake spanner" which I never even knew existed until yesterday, after reading a post on here. So thank-you! 
Back to the point, hopefully my photo will show up, giving you an idea of my splice. Just in case it makes a difference. The ends of the pipes have been flared. I believe it's called a bubble/double flare. (I forget?) Obviously using a flaring tool. Just to point out it does not have the "Olive" type compression joints used in water plumbing systems.
I have been told that this type of joint is permissible and will pass an MOT. I appreciate it's a little late now, but does anyone out there know for sure?
I will use a cable tie to secure the joint at it's centre to the suspension arm.
Any constructive comments would be appreciated...
Cheers
Jamie
Just to add, the fluid under the joint is old.
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Posted: Mon Mar 23, 2015 1:36 pm |
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Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Posts: 7093
Trade Rating: +11
Location: Suffolk
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Thats fine and looks very good quality, well done. Though i would have considered running it to a fixing made by peugeot instead of adding another join
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| Team Impossible Possible
The only way of finding the limits of the possible is by going beyond them into the impossible - Arthur C. Clarke
Forged 1.6 Turbo
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144Bhp @ 7PSi - 193.9Bhp @ 13psi
206 Gti Race Car
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For all Race/Track Preparation, Feel Free to PM Me!
Whether its for a custom ratio gearbox or track-day alignment, I can help! | |
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Posted: Mon Mar 23, 2015 2:20 pm |
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Joined: Feb 08, 2010
Posts: 7045
Trade Rating: +5
Location: In the garage
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Looks good to me. I need one of those double female fittings for mine.
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| 2001 GTi 138, Bilstein Sprint dampers, H&R springs, 21mm Peugeot Sport torsion bars, 22mm rear ARB, Peugeot Sport Group A wishbones, 283mm discs, Goodridge stainless hoses, Maniflow 304 grade 4-2-1 2.5" manifold and system, 200 cell cat, Richard Longman head, 45mm Jenvey throttle bodies, 9.5mm TB spacers, 90mm air horns, Jenvey throttle linkage, Jenvey fuel rail, Aeromotive and Goodridge fuel fittings and braided hose, ITG sausage filter, Radtec custom radiator, Piper Ultimate Road cams, Piper vernier pulleys, Omex 600 ECU. Saxo electric PAS pump, Vibra Technics engine mounts. Samco coolant hoses, TTV steel flywheel, 4.76 final drive ratio, 307 CC 180 ratios. 2019 BMW 530i. 2017 Mercedes C300 convertible. | |
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Posted: Mon Mar 23, 2015 2:51 pm |
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Joined: Apr 19, 2012
Posts: 27
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Worcestershire
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| Addaz wrote: |
| Thats fine and looks very good quality, well done. Though i would have considered running it to a fixing made by peugeot instead of adding another join |
Thanks Addaz,
I did try and take it to the next joint, but I couldn't get the spanner over the nut. The steel to "material/rubber" hose joint at the end of the original OE brake pipe is (as you probably know) only a few inches above where the photo ends. I couldn't gain any movement on the nut due to lack of room. I did notice the joint is held in position by what looks like an "L" shaped bracket held in position by a nut and bolt. This would be easy enough to remove, and give me the required access. However, there's quite a chunky spring attached to the bracket, which is under tension. The thing is, I've no idea what the purpose of the spring is?? As such I bottled it to be honest Something to do with the handbrake maybe?
I will obviously need to bleed the brakes now, can I just crack on and bleed the cylinder in the traditional way, or do I need to do something else which involves this manifold thing?
Thanks for the help.
Jamie
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Last edited by jam1e on Tue Mar 24, 2015 12:00 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Posted: Mon Mar 23, 2015 3:05 pm |
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Joined: Apr 19, 2012
Posts: 27
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Worcestershire
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| Edward wrote: |
| Looks good to me. I need one of those double female fittings for mine. |
Thanks Edward,
The flaring tool was loaned to me by a mechanic neighbour. The joints and piping were donated to me by him. I'll sort him a decent drink for the help.
Jamie
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Posted: Mon Mar 23, 2015 5:21 pm |
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Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Posts: 7093
Trade Rating: +11
Location: Suffolk
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That is just the load sensor, when the vehicles height drops it pulls on the spring to increase brake pressure to the rear.
Bleed the system like normal mate, 10 to 20 pumps would be good
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| Team Impossible Possible
The only way of finding the limits of the possible is by going beyond them into the impossible - Arthur C. Clarke
Forged 1.6 Turbo
Click to see more
144Bhp @ 7PSi - 193.9Bhp @ 13psi
206 Gti Race Car
Click to see more
For all Race/Track Preparation, Feel Free to PM Me!
Whether its for a custom ratio gearbox or track-day alignment, I can help! | |
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Posted: Tue Mar 24, 2015 5:29 am |
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Joined: Apr 19, 2012
Posts: 27
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Worcestershire
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| Addaz wrote: |
That is just the load sensor, when the vehicles height drops it pulls on the spring to increase brake pressure to the rear.
Bleed the system like normal mate, 10 to 20 pumps would be good |
Cheers Addaz,
Much appreciated.
Thanks.
Jamie
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Posted: Tue Mar 24, 2015 4:28 pm |
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Joined: Apr 19, 2012
Posts: 27
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Worcestershire
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Last question.
I'll hopefully doing the second new joint tomorrow, then bleeding them.
Is there an order in which the brakes should be bled, or just fronts then back?
Thanks.
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Posted: Tue Mar 24, 2015 4:34 pm |
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Joined: Nov 27, 2010
Posts: 11520
Trade Rating: +10
Location: What's it to you? ? ?
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| jam1e wrote: |
Last question.
I'll hopefully doing the second new joint tomorrow, then bleeding them.
Is there an order in which the brakes should be bled, or just fronts then back?
Thanks. |
Start with the furthest away from the master cylinder then work your way towards the nearest is good general rule of thumb.
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| Toyota C-HR GR Sport 2.0 Hybrid with JBL & Alcantara packs. | |
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Posted: Thu Mar 26, 2015 4:26 am |
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Joined: Apr 19, 2012
Posts: 27
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Worcestershire
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| MrBSI wrote: |
| jam1e wrote: |
Last question.
I'll hopefully doing the second new joint tomorrow, then bleeding them.
Is there an order in which the brakes should be bled, or just fronts then back?
Thanks. |
Start with the furthest away from the master cylinder then work your way towards the nearest is good general rule of thumb. |
Much appreciated.
Thanks.
Jamie
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