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Forums › The Car › 206 Problems › Knocking at the front


 
 

Knocking at the front
Forum Index206 Problems
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206HdiGti
PostPosted: Fri Sep 25, 2015 9:18 am Up
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2005 HDI GTI

Hi all,

I had an MOT recently and the tester said he was expecting to find something hanging off the front end but found nothing.

There are a lot of knocking noises each time I go over a bump at slow or reasonable speed.

What are the most obvious things to look at?

Cheers

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greenpug2222
PostPosted: Fri Sep 25, 2015 9:55 am Up
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Drop link is the obvious one, but also look at lower arm, anti roll bushes too.
why wont you work??????????????????? ARGH F**k it!!!!!
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LeeThr
PostPosted: Fri Sep 25, 2015 10:24 am Up
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Engine mounts?
 


gogs_macaulay wrote:
LeeThr wrote:
One Hundred million bazillion gatrillion pink rupee's
Shut it u stupid little f**k, what's the point in posting in all my treads being such a c***? Least I can afford a gti180, and to get the cam belt done!

So apparently everyone knows my financial situation? If I wanted a 180 I would have bought a 180 simples Smile

The garage
2003 - 206 GTi 138 - Moonstone Blue
2003 - 406 Coupé 2.2 HDi SE - Hyperion Blue
2000 - 206 2L HDi D-Turbo ECO - Cherry Red
1999 - 306 GTi-6 - Blue (haven't worked out if it's Nile or China yet)
1987 - 205 GTi 1.9 - Graphite Gray

I must be mad.....
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E5GDM
PostPosted: Fri Sep 25, 2015 3:47 pm Up
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Location: Essex


Lose exhaust?
 
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Deckchair5
PostPosted: Sat Sep 26, 2015 3:12 am Up
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Location: Bath UK


I had a hideous knocking from the left front suspension recently but only on bumpy cornering, never on the straight, no matter how rough the road surface. Very much like a track rod end gone type of noise and very loud but as quiet as a sleeping baby on straight roads. The tracking was going out too and burning off tyre tread outer edge

Did all the usual checks with wheel off ground- rocking wheel top to bottom and side to side and absolutely no play at all in anything. Checked drop links ( they were quite new anyway) and still nothing

Took it to a good mechanic who put car up and gave it a good going over using big lever bar for inspecting wear and found nothing. On an MOT later (again a different but good and trusted garage) I specifically stated the noise and asked them to have a really good look at that side- I watched him do it and he had the same result. Nothing found. MOT passed with no advisory

Suspension noises tend to get worse with time so 2 months later I took it back to original mechanic and still he could find nothing so as we both knew we had checked and could eliminate drop links, cv joints, upper suspension bearings and all the usual suspects, it simply made sense to replace the lower wishbones even though they showed no movement. There was really nothing else left it could be

That was the answer, the wishbone bushes showed no sign of movement when static but the bearing had broken free from the casting and was making all the noise when stressed on bumpy corners

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206HdiGti
PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2015 3:48 am Up
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Hi all,

Thanks for the tips, I shall have a look at the weekend!

If it is wishbones or droplinks, what brands of part would you recommend excluding peugeot?

cheers

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Sim
PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2015 4:52 am Up
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Lemforder droplinks are made to outlast some cheapo ones; but here's a generic guide for part manufacturers: forum.club8090.co.uk/v...0#p7563243

Wishbones are best to go from the dealer (and you could straight swap from a GTi 180 uprated ones), or just press poly bushes in - after 1.5 years and 9000 miles of driving them I see no wearing and tearing Smile

Surely uprated wishbones will result in stiffer and more stable ride, which is good, but not if you are after comfort Wink

2.0 HDi, year 2000 (E's restin')
Red GTi 180, year 2004 (VorTechS' sEXy Beast (being) remasteRed)
Blue GTi 180, year 2004 (in hibernation after endless driving fun in 2019, queued for "cambelt in tight spaces")
Missus' 1.6 16v CC, year 2007 (L-plates to P-plates to NO-plates, but now she wants powwer:))
£50 1.4 HDi, year 2002 (seatless transporter, SORNed, rust needs patching)
EV
Jag S(crapped)- & X-Type
GTC VXR (sold)
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206HdiGti
PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2015 10:02 am Up
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It's still reasonably stiff as it is, as I'm assuming I have the GTI chassis?

I'll look into the Lemforder thanks Smile

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206HdiGti
PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2015 10:04 am Up
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Does anyone have a part number for the GTI180 wishbones?

Many thanks.

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MrBSI
PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2015 11:23 am Up
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206HdiGti wrote:


If it is wishbones or droplinks, what brands of part would you recommend excluding peugeot?


My wishbones & drop links where changed under warranty 10 years / 100k miles ago & there still perfectly fine, genuine Peugeot parts last a long time Wink

Toyota C-HR GR Sport 2.0 Hybrid with JBL & Alcantara packs.
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Sim
PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2015 12:46 pm Up
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Part numbers for GTi 180 wishbones is:
left 3520 V6
right 3521 R7

The main visual difference is that sports models have metal enclosure around rubber bushes:
 


as opposed to
 

2.0 HDi, year 2000 (E's restin')
Red GTi 180, year 2004 (VorTechS' sEXy Beast (being) remasteRed)
Blue GTi 180, year 2004 (in hibernation after endless driving fun in 2019, queued for "cambelt in tight spaces")
Missus' 1.6 16v CC, year 2007 (L-plates to P-plates to NO-plates, but now she wants powwer:))
£50 1.4 HDi, year 2002 (seatless transporter, SORNed, rust needs patching)
EV
Jag S(crapped)- & X-Type
GTC VXR (sold)
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206HdiGti
PostPosted: Fri Oct 02, 2015 3:49 am Up
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MrBSI wrote:
206HdiGti wrote:


If it is wishbones or droplinks, what brands of part would you recommend excluding peugeot?


My wishbones & drop links where changed under warranty 10 years / 100k miles ago & there still perfectly fine, genuine Peugeot parts last a long time Wink

I didn't say I wasn't going to use Genuine Peugeot Parts. They are really good value as well compared to Toyota or Nissan!

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Edward
PostPosted: Fri Oct 02, 2015 5:51 am Up
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Gti 180 wishbones are the same as gti, xsi,cc....
2001 GTi 138, Bilstein Sprint dampers, H&R springs, 21mm Peugeot Sport torsion bars, 22mm rear ARB, Peugeot Sport Group A wishbones, 283mm discs, Goodridge stainless hoses, Maniflow 304 grade 4-2-1 2.5" manifold and system, 200 cell cat, Richard Longman head, 45mm Jenvey throttle bodies, 9.5mm TB spacers, 90mm air horns, Jenvey throttle linkage, Jenvey fuel rail, Aeromotive and Goodridge fuel fittings and braided hose, ITG sausage filter, Radtec custom radiator, Piper Ultimate Road cams, Piper vernier pulleys, Omex 600 ECU. Saxo electric PAS pump, Vibra Technics engine mounts. Samco coolant hoses, TTV steel flywheel, 4.76 final drive ratio, 307 CC 180 ratios. 2019 BMW 530i. 2017 Mercedes C300 convertible.
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Edward
PostPosted: Fri Oct 02, 2015 5:55 am Up
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Sim wrote:
Part numbers for GTi 180 wishbones is:
left 3520 V6
right 3521 R7

The main visual difference is that sports models have metal enclosure around rubber bushes:
 


as opposed to
 

Not quite true. Sports range wishbones have one metal bearing and one rubber. Normal models have two rubber bushes.

Peugeot Sport Group A parts have two metal bushes.

2001 GTi 138, Bilstein Sprint dampers, H&R springs, 21mm Peugeot Sport torsion bars, 22mm rear ARB, Peugeot Sport Group A wishbones, 283mm discs, Goodridge stainless hoses, Maniflow 304 grade 4-2-1 2.5" manifold and system, 200 cell cat, Richard Longman head, 45mm Jenvey throttle bodies, 9.5mm TB spacers, 90mm air horns, Jenvey throttle linkage, Jenvey fuel rail, Aeromotive and Goodridge fuel fittings and braided hose, ITG sausage filter, Radtec custom radiator, Piper Ultimate Road cams, Piper vernier pulleys, Omex 600 ECU. Saxo electric PAS pump, Vibra Technics engine mounts. Samco coolant hoses, TTV steel flywheel, 4.76 final drive ratio, 307 CC 180 ratios. 2019 BMW 530i. 2017 Mercedes C300 convertible.
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206HdiGti
PostPosted: Fri Oct 02, 2015 6:10 am Up
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So i've already got uprated ones then?
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