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 Posted: Thu Jan 28, 2016 2:46 pm |
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Joined: Mar 21, 2010
Posts: 75
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Devon
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After successfully repairing a faulty low fan speed resistor, I have to takle another problem on my friends 206.
The car has digital climate control A/C.
The problem is that the car cannot decide what temperature / speed / or anything else. it seems to have a mind of its own.
In A/C auto mode, I set the temperature to the lowest (14C) I think, the car sometimes puts the heater on and sometimes it doesn't. Even at the lowest setting the car feels like cooking you like a chicken. The temp seems in its high 20's. At no point does it blow cool air, even in Eco mode.
There is an audible screech from the AC motor, so that needs to be replaced soon. Directing the airflow top/middle/bottom does nothing at all as well.
When aircon is engaged, I can hear the click coming from the engine, but the AC pipe running across the top of the engine does not get cool. The condenser? or the cylindrical gizmo to the left of the radiator does get cold however. It seems that setting the controls to recirculate air does nothing too.
So to the questions.
1. does the system which chooses airflow to the middle/top/lower vents reside in the fan?
2. would low A/C coolant cause these symptoms, I mean with no coolant. circulating it would just blow hot right?
3. Could a faulty in cabin temperature sensor cause this?
4. Am I on the right track, if not point me in the right direction please 
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Posted: Thu Jan 28, 2016 2:48 pm |
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Joined: Mar 21, 2010
Posts: 75
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Devon
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^^ I would just like to add.
Sometimes, when the car feels like it. It will allow you to change the speed of the fan. So I don't think the resistor is at fault (but i may be wrong)
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Posted: Thu Jan 28, 2016 3:49 pm |
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Joined: Feb 08, 2010
Posts: 7045
Trade Rating: +5
Location: In the garage
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It is likely to be the fan at fault. When they go wonky they have a mind of their own. Without the fan nothing will work.
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| 2001 GTi 138, Bilstein Sprint dampers, H&R springs, 21mm Peugeot Sport torsion bars, 22mm rear ARB, Peugeot Sport Group A wishbones, 283mm discs, Goodridge stainless hoses, Maniflow 304 grade 4-2-1 2.5" manifold and system, 200 cell cat, Richard Longman head, 45mm Jenvey throttle bodies, 9.5mm TB spacers, 90mm air horns, Jenvey throttle linkage, Jenvey fuel rail, Aeromotive and Goodridge fuel fittings and braided hose, ITG sausage filter, Radtec custom radiator, Piper Ultimate Road cams, Piper vernier pulleys, Omex 600 ECU. Saxo electric PAS pump, Vibra Technics engine mounts. Samco coolant hoses, TTV steel flywheel, 4.76 final drive ratio, 307 CC 180 ratios. 2019 BMW 530i. 2017 Mercedes C300 convertible. | |
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Posted: Thu Jan 28, 2016 3:55 pm |
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Joined: Mar 21, 2010
Posts: 75
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Devon
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That's good to hear, thank you.
The fan is definitely wonky as it makes a high pitched noise when in use, though I don't know if it could be some other motor trying to direct airflow.
Where the coolant enters the matrix in the foot well gets incredibly hot.
Only other thing I can think of is that I have two wires not plugged into anything behind the centre console, I wonder if they are anything to do with heating (picture below)
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Posted: Fri Jan 29, 2016 12:29 am |
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Joined: Nov 27, 2010
Posts: 11520
Trade Rating: +10
Location: What's it to you? ? ?
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Those 2 plugs are for the glove box light, switch & lamp are roughly around £5 from Peugeot parts department.
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| Toyota C-HR GR Sport 2.0 Hybrid with JBL & Alcantara packs. | |
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Posted: Fri Jan 29, 2016 12:33 am |
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Joined: Aug 11, 2015
Posts: 175
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Tewkesbury
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1. The system that re-routs the air is the heater assembly.
This houses the fan (In the donut at the top), heater matrix and air con evaporator. All of the air routing elements are controlled via digital servos in the climate control modl. If you want to open this up you have to remove the whole dash so I usually see it as a last resort.
2. Not necessarily. Even with the air con off the car draws in cold air from outside. There's a flap in the assembly that switches between hot and cold so it could be that this is stuck - causing the climate control to only allow in hot air.
3. Potentially yes - if the sensor is returning 0 degrees then it will be trying to heat up the cabin by a minimum of 14 degrees so it will blast the heat. How does the system run on manual? Try setting it to manual and then running it at max fan speed on 14 degrees and then the same on 28. If there's no difference then my money is on the servos.
4. You're looking about it in the right way. Have a play with it on manual and get back to me. I haven't experienced this before but I'm happy to have a stab at it. I also have a climate control blower motor, wiring looms (pre and multiplex), and a spare control panel if you wanna have a play around with them.
Yeah that's about all I have on this one so far. I'll look into it later if I get a minute.
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Posted: Fri Jan 29, 2016 5:21 am |
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Joined: Mar 21, 2010
Posts: 75
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Devon
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| MrBSI wrote: |
| Those 2 plugs are for the glove box light, switch & lamp are roughly around £5 from Peugeot parts department. |
Thank you, the 206 does not have any lights or switches in the glovebox. it does however have a little white holder for these wires to keep them from rattling about.
| FrankAteMyName wrote: |
1. The system that re-routs the air is the heater assembly.
This houses the fan (In the donut at the top), heater matrix and air con evaporator. All of the air routing elements are controlled via digital servos in the climate control modl. If you want to open this up you have to remove the whole dash so I usually see it as a last resort.
2. Not necessarily. Even with the air con off the car draws in cold air from outside. There's a flap in the assembly that switches between hot and cold so it could be that this is stuck - causing the climate control to only allow in hot air.
3. Potentially yes - if the sensor is returning 0 degrees then it will be trying to heat up the cabin by a minimum of 14 degrees so it will blast the heat. How does the system run on manual? Try setting it to manual and then running it at max fan speed on 14 degrees and then the same on 28. If there's no difference then my money is on the servos.
4. You're looking about it in the right way. Have a play with it on manual and get back to me. I haven't experienced this before but I'm happy to have a stab at it. I also have a climate control blower motor, wiring looms (pre and multiplex), and a spare control panel if you wanna have a play around with them.
Yeah that's about all I have on this one so far. I'll look into it later if I get a minute. |
It does not really matter if the unit is on auto or eco, it just has a mind of its own. By the way your describing it and the fact the unit does not change airflow direction to particular vents I am thinking that its the servos inside the heater unit that is at fault.
I will say though, that every once in a while it stops acting crazy and will behave like its reached whatever desired temperature and will quieten down and act OK. Then all of a sudden it will go full blast and start cooking you again, really strange.
I'm guessing even with a faulty temperature sensor the unit would still allow you to direct the flow top/middle/bottom.
I've had a look in the footwell and can see insulation stripped from the heater blower wires and also someone has caused the top airflow assembly under the multi display unit to not sit flush. in fact instead of removing whatever they needed to remove to make it sit flush they tried cutting bits out of it - seems like someone who is a bit of an idiot has 'had a go mate' if you know what I mean.
If its a case of the heater assembly at fault I might be tempted to remove the system and put a manual AC system in as I'm sure I would have to drain the AC to even attempt to fix the servos.
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Posted: Fri Jan 29, 2016 6:28 am |
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Joined: Aug 11, 2015
Posts: 175
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Tewkesbury
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The servos are, curiously, bolted to the outside of the assembly however they're still quite difficult to get to without taking your dash out. Putting in the manual system is more effort than fitting/repairing the climate system IMO. To do so you need quite a few bits and pieces:
- Control Unit
- Assembly (You can transfer your existing matrix and evaporator into the new assembly)
- Compatible loom
- Non-climate blower motor
- Air intake/recirculate part (with blower resistor)
- Cables to operate the manual flaps
You would also have to drain and refill your coolant and you would need to empty and regas your A/C
As you said, I reckon the CC should still work in manual mode even if the temp sensor is off. However there is also a temp sensor in the side of the assembly that measures incoming air temp. If that's gone then on manual mode the temperature would likely fluctuate as it still tries to keep incoming air at the specified temperature. The only difference is it doesn't care about the cabin temperature so that could potentially rule out the cabin sensor. I also find it hightly unlikely that it's the exterior sensor. I mean, it might even be something as simple as the blower motor tbh. If that's gone then it could cause all sorts of crazy things to happen. I have one spare if you happen to be headed up Gloucester way any time soon.
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| My cars:
206 Urban 1.4 8v 3dr '56 - China Blue - 70k Miles - Climate control retrofit, cruise control retrofit - Dead (Breaking)
206 GLX 1.4 8v 3dr '03 - 100k Miles - Obsidian Black - Black masked headlights + front fogs, Faster sunroof, Colour matched exterior trim - SOLD
206 2.0 GTI 138 '03 - 58k Miles - Onyx Black - 17" 180 Alloys - Current
206 2.0 GTi 138 '03 - 120k Miles - China Blue - New Track Toy (ON THE WAY) | |
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Posted: Fri Jan 29, 2016 6:46 am |
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Joined: Mar 21, 2010
Posts: 75
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Devon
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I've been having a look on the internet.
It seems a common problem that heater vent shafts can break on the join to the servo.
I think that this could be my problem. I dont know how to embed a youtube video on this forum. but here is a link.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=G5MzmqbrkLQ
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Posted: Fri Jan 29, 2016 10:38 am |
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Joined: Feb 08, 2010
Posts: 7045
Trade Rating: +5
Location: In the garage
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If the servos weren't working you'd still get air coming from somewhere.
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| 2001 GTi 138, Bilstein Sprint dampers, H&R springs, 21mm Peugeot Sport torsion bars, 22mm rear ARB, Peugeot Sport Group A wishbones, 283mm discs, Goodridge stainless hoses, Maniflow 304 grade 4-2-1 2.5" manifold and system, 200 cell cat, Richard Longman head, 45mm Jenvey throttle bodies, 9.5mm TB spacers, 90mm air horns, Jenvey throttle linkage, Jenvey fuel rail, Aeromotive and Goodridge fuel fittings and braided hose, ITG sausage filter, Radtec custom radiator, Piper Ultimate Road cams, Piper vernier pulleys, Omex 600 ECU. Saxo electric PAS pump, Vibra Technics engine mounts. Samco coolant hoses, TTV steel flywheel, 4.76 final drive ratio, 307 CC 180 ratios. 2019 BMW 530i. 2017 Mercedes C300 convertible. | |
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Posted: Fri Jan 29, 2016 11:28 am |
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Joined: Mar 21, 2010
Posts: 75
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Devon
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I've been having a look on the internet.
It seems a common problem that heater vent shafts can break on the join to the servo.
I think that this could be my problem. I dont know how to embed a youtube video on this forum. but here is a link.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=G5MzmqbrkLQ
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Posted: Fri Jan 29, 2016 12:12 pm |
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Joined: Jan 29, 2011
Posts: 6526
Trade Rating: +10
Location: Westhoughton, Lancashire
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| mcfly666 wrote: |
| MrBSI wrote: |
| Those 2 plugs are for the glove box light, switch & lamp are roughly around £5 from Peugeot parts department. |
Thank you, the 206 does not have any lights or switches in the glovebox. it does however have a little white holder for these wires to keep them from rattling about. |
A useful and cheap addition. 5 minute job to retro fit, the holes should already be there. No BSI settings need changing.
Lamp unit £3.92 (6362N6)
Switch £4.61 (633918)
Check part numbers with counter before ordering
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Posted: Tue Feb 09, 2016 11:01 am |
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Joined: Mar 21, 2010
Posts: 75
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Devon
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Hi people, been really busy. But thanks for the help.
I have finally got to work on the car again, I have replaced the blower motor and now the heating speed can be controlled properly again!
It's no longer screaming it's tits off when it feels like it too, unfortunately the problem still remains where you cant control where you want the air and cant force it to recirculate the air inside the car.
When messing with the controls and with my hand down the side of the heater unit, I cant feel or hear the motors moving.
Hopefully it's just the motors that control airflow that have packed up.
I have also been trying to find a PPT30 clock digital display as hers is broken - the bulbs are fine. I suspect someone has tried fixing the connection that powers the bulbs and broken the LCD ribbon inside (idiots)
Is there a way to retro fit a PPT40 or such like instead of the older four type unit?
Thanks peeps.
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Posted: Tue Feb 09, 2016 5:42 pm |
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Joined: Jun 19, 2010
Posts: 1600
Trade Rating: +4
Location: South Bucks
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The ppt30 has two circuit boards at 90 degrees and the pins that connect them come loose. Resolder them ...
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| Down to just the 1.4 HDi. Cayman Green 2.0i CC sold. | |
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Posted: Wed Feb 10, 2016 12:47 pm |
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Joined: Mar 21, 2010
Posts: 75
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Devon
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You mean the three pin connector? A previous owner tried fixing it and put the unit back together with the LCD ribbon all creased up.
The bulbs work but nothing is on the display so I assume the ribbon is broke.
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