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Overheating various questions please
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gazzya

Posted: Sat Apr 02, 2016 11:55 am

Joined: Apr 02, 2016
Posts: 6
Trade Rating: 0

Please can anybody advise, just bought a 206 LX 2001 from a used car place.

The mot is for a year and has no advisories.

Within 5 minutes of driving home the "STOP" came up and the temperature gauge was at the top. I pulled over and called the seller, he said just out the heating on full for a few seconds and it will go down, its not overheating just the fan didn't kick in. He said this was pretty common with a 206 and no big problem.

1)Is this normal, what is causing it and is it really no problem?

2)When driving the temp stays on 90 and when im idling it goes just a bit above 90 then it sounds like the fan kicks in and it goes back to 90. Again is this normal?

Thanks so much

Gaz

mtempsch

Posted: Sat Apr 02, 2016 1:53 pm

Joined: Apr 14, 2010
Posts: 713
Trade Rating: +2
Location: Gothenburg, Sweden

gazzya wrote:

IIRC 2001 is the switch-over year, so could be 'pre-plex' (ie not multiplexed, or traditional/oldschool/lots of wires) or 'multiplexed' where the amount of wiring is reduced and a 2-wire serial communications bus runs between some specific points like ECU, BSI, etc and messages on the bus replaces voltage on individual wires. Good to know what you've got if Gremlins show up...

Easiest way to see what you've got is probably to look at the stereo control stalk, long and slender means it's pre-plex, short and blocky means it's multiplex.

The fan wiring is a well known weak spot on at least the multiplexed 206s. The relays and/or their wiring/connectors and low speed resistor are prone to corrosion due to their exposed placement.

The fix is essentially to the replace relays (2x standard SPDT 30A automotive relays IIRC), partially replace the wiring (crop back the wires a bit and splice in new, including the terminals in the connection blocks (or new complete blocks)). Replace resistor if needed.

On most? pre-plex models it's just a temp.controlled switch that controls the fan (constant +12V to fan motor, negative wire connects to ground through the switch). Really only 3 things that can go - fuse, switch and fan itself (+ the wiring between them)

My RC (GTi180) runs with the temp needle pretty much pegged at 90 once up to temp, idling in queues takes it slightly above, and the fan takes it back down.


	Silvermetallic 2004 206 RC

gazza82

Posted: Sat Apr 02, 2016 4:10 pm

Joined: Jun 19, 2010
Posts: 1600
Trade Rating: +4
Location: South Bucks

Just try swapping out the sensor in the thermosrat housing first!


	Down to just the 1.4 HDi. Cayman Green 2.0i CC sold.

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